Mexican food to me is like fuel; a week without it and I'm having withdrawals. Thank god for Iris Avelar and Felipe Mendez, the fantastic duo that owns the taqueria La Superior in Williamsburg. Without them, so many of my extreme cravings would go unfulfilled. When I heard they were opening another spot, Cerveceria Havemeyer, I was practically scratching at the door. Their recent endeavor is roomier, more chill, and packed with drool-worthy menu options. I met up with them for a bite and got the inside scoop on Brooklyn's newest slice of Mexico.
Shannan Elinor Smith: How did you guys meet, and when did you decide to open a restaurant?
Iris Avelar: We met in Mexico City. We were both on vacation, and a friend in common connected us––we hit it off right away. We talked about what we did in New York, and I told Felipe that eventually I wanted to invest in a restaurant there. But I just didn't know who to partner with, or how things worked in NYC.
About a year after we got back to New York, Felipe got in touch with me and told me to come to the new bar he was managing; he wanted to talk about opening an authentic Mexican restaurant. So I stopped by and I was like, "OMG, you make the best margaritas!" So I started going every day for happy hour, and I'd close down the bar five days a week.
Then a few weeks later, he said, “I'm serious about opening up this place. Let me cook for you and show you that I know what I'm doing." I agreed, and told him to come over to my place and cook a dinner. That night, this crazy blizzard was going on outside and I was like, "This Mexican isn't going to come over." So I put on my PJs but then the bell rang; he had his groceries and was covered in ice! It was such an amazing meal—he made one of the most difficult dishes in Mexico, chile relleno. A real good one takes time and mad skill, and he made it to perfection.
Felipe Mendez: She showed up the next day at my bar and said, "Let’s do it!"
What makes Cerveceria Havemeyer different from La Superior?
FM: The entire dynamic of the place is different. La Superior is a taqueria—you walk in, you eat, you walk out. Cerveceria is in between a taqueria and a cantina. It's where you go after work with your friends—you sit down, order, and spend time hanging out, which is how it is in Mexico.
Have you created any new dishes for Cerveceria?
FM: Eighty-five percent of Cerveceria's menu is different from La Superior's. Pretty much the whole top of the menu is specific to Cerveceria: the villamelon, the cecina, the camaron con salsa, the duck, and the pastor (pork slow-cooked on a spit). I would say we are some of the first ones to do pastor in New York, though I know there's somebody doing it in Queens. But ask anyone from Mexico City, they'll tell you tacos al pastor are by far number one.
We don't have guacamole, and we won't have guacamole. My dad once came to La Superior from Mexico City, and as soon as he sat down, he said, "This place is super authentic and the food is amazing, but you have one flaw—guacamole! How many Mexican restaurants in Mexico have guacamole?" And I was like, "None, I just want to be nice to Americans." So I decided that the next restaurant wouldn't have guacamole, because it's kind of late to take it off La Superior's menu now.
What’s your favorite item on the menu?
FM: We have cheek—it is awesome—duck, tongue, and carnitas. But I would say my favorite thing on the menu right now are the aguachiles [a spicier version of ceviche that uses shrimp].<
Shannan Elinor Smith: How did you guys meet, and when did you decide to open a restaurant?
Iris Avelar: We met in Mexico City. We were both on vacation, and a friend in common connected us––we hit it off right away. We talked about what we did in New York, and I told Felipe that eventually I wanted to invest in a restaurant there. But I just didn't know who to partner with, or how things worked in NYC.
About a year after we got back to New York, Felipe got in touch with me and told me to come to the new bar he was managing; he wanted to talk about opening an authentic Mexican restaurant. So I stopped by and I was like, "OMG, you make the best margaritas!" So I started going every day for happy hour, and I'd close down the bar five days a week.
Then a few weeks later, he said, “I'm serious about opening up this place. Let me cook for you and show you that I know what I'm doing." I agreed, and told him to come over to my place and cook a dinner. That night, this crazy blizzard was going on outside and I was like, "This Mexican isn't going to come over." So I put on my PJs but then the bell rang; he had his groceries and was covered in ice! It was such an amazing meal—he made one of the most difficult dishes in Mexico, chile relleno. A real good one takes time and mad skill, and he made it to perfection.
Felipe Mendez: She showed up the next day at my bar and said, "Let’s do it!"
What makes Cerveceria Havemeyer different from La Superior?
FM: The entire dynamic of the place is different. La Superior is a taqueria—you walk in, you eat, you walk out. Cerveceria is in between a taqueria and a cantina. It's where you go after work with your friends—you sit down, order, and spend time hanging out, which is how it is in Mexico.
Have you created any new dishes for Cerveceria?
FM: Eighty-five percent of Cerveceria's menu is different from La Superior's. Pretty much the whole top of the menu is specific to Cerveceria: the villamelon, the cecina, the camaron con salsa, the duck, and the pastor (pork slow-cooked on a spit). I would say we are some of the first ones to do pastor in New York, though I know there's somebody doing it in Queens. But ask anyone from Mexico City, they'll tell you tacos al pastor are by far number one.
We don't have guacamole, and we won't have guacamole. My dad once came to La Superior from Mexico City, and as soon as he sat down, he said, "This place is super authentic and the food is amazing, but you have one flaw—guacamole! How many Mexican restaurants in Mexico have guacamole?" And I was like, "None, I just want to be nice to Americans." So I decided that the next restaurant wouldn't have guacamole, because it's kind of late to take it off La Superior's menu now.
What’s your favorite item on the menu?
FM: We have cheek—it is awesome—duck, tongue, and carnitas. But I would say my favorite thing on the menu right now are the aguachiles [a spicier version of ceviche that uses shrimp].<