Mexican food doesn’t stop at tacos and burritos: Folks like Danny Bowien and even your local taqueria are breaking the mold with housemade tortillas, masa, and some killer horchata to wash it all down. And then there’s the newly opened Cafe El Presidente, part of the eight-year-old Tacombi family of restaurants in New York City, that’s being slated as the "Eataly for Mexico."
The 6,500-square-foot space, which is now open, is meant to highlight all aspects of Mexican cuisine not yet explored by the Taco Bell masses: tacos and tortillas, for one, but also ceviches, medicinal juices, coffee, and yes, artisanal Mexican products. “Mexico has 31 states, and the capital district,” owner Dario Wolos says. “There is a tremendous variety of food that most people don’t know about; styles and techniques that come from Mexico’s multicultural heritage.” Browse the space, and you’ll find the kitchen handing out carne asada tacos inspired by the Monterrey style, organic honey from Yucatán, agave syrup, housemade salsas, and two tortilla machines pressing out fresh tortillas to buy and devour.
We chatted with Dario and chef Jason DeBriere about changing the landscape of Mexican food in the states.
JESSICA CHOU: What sort of research did you have to do before opening Cafe El Presidente?
DARIO WOLOS: I grew up in Mexico and started Tacombi eight years ago, so everything we do is really a conglomeration of all this stuff together. We go to Mexico once a month to do research: going to little towns in the country, the coasts, looking for these flavors that are off the beaten path.
What flavors do you think should get more play? Or more ingredients?
JASON DEBRIERE: One thing I’m very excited about is using some of these heirloom varieties of dried beans that farmers are growing again. They really just cook themselves with a little salt, and they have some of the most amazing textures and flavors.
DW: I also think the flour tortilla is something that is not well understood yet. Flour tortillas are predominantly from the northern region, where they make really great meat, so we’re going to be bringing that northern style. Jason will be pulling together some tacos based on those traditions.
Are there specific regions you want people to know more about?
DW: Well, there are so many. Monterrey is known for its meat; the meat culture in northern Mexico is phenomenal. So Sonora and Chihuahua are the famous meat states. Ceviches are very common on the Pacific coast.
JD: Some of the lobsters they had down towards the southern part of Baja are amazing.
DW: And you have the state of Oaxaca; it’s one kind of a state of its own.
JD: Oaxacan is such a vast cuisine that has hardly been tapped in this country, and it varies in region. Just go 70 kilometers outside of Oaxaca City, and you’ll find completely different food, more of a Native Indian style cuisine there. It’s wild.
Are there specific dishes that you think have been misunderstood?
DW: It sounds simple, but building the al pastor is very difficult. Every taqueria, every butcher has their own recipe that’s highly guarded, and they won’t divulge any information. Jason’s come up with something that I think can challenge some of the best taquerias in Mexico City.
JD: It’s really interesting because al pastor started in the Yucatán after it made its way there
The 6,500-square-foot space, which is now open, is meant to highlight all aspects of Mexican cuisine not yet explored by the Taco Bell masses: tacos and tortillas, for one, but also ceviches, medicinal juices, coffee, and yes, artisanal Mexican products. “Mexico has 31 states, and the capital district,” owner Dario Wolos says. “There is a tremendous variety of food that most people don’t know about; styles and techniques that come from Mexico’s multicultural heritage.” Browse the space, and you’ll find the kitchen handing out carne asada tacos inspired by the Monterrey style, organic honey from Yucatán, agave syrup, housemade salsas, and two tortilla machines pressing out fresh tortillas to buy and devour.
We chatted with Dario and chef Jason DeBriere about changing the landscape of Mexican food in the states.
JESSICA CHOU: What sort of research did you have to do before opening Cafe El Presidente?
DARIO WOLOS: I grew up in Mexico and started Tacombi eight years ago, so everything we do is really a conglomeration of all this stuff together. We go to Mexico once a month to do research: going to little towns in the country, the coasts, looking for these flavors that are off the beaten path.
What flavors do you think should get more play? Or more ingredients?
JASON DEBRIERE: One thing I’m very excited about is using some of these heirloom varieties of dried beans that farmers are growing again. They really just cook themselves with a little salt, and they have some of the most amazing textures and flavors.
DW: I also think the flour tortilla is something that is not well understood yet. Flour tortillas are predominantly from the northern region, where they make really great meat, so we’re going to be bringing that northern style. Jason will be pulling together some tacos based on those traditions.
Are there specific regions you want people to know more about?
DW: Well, there are so many. Monterrey is known for its meat; the meat culture in northern Mexico is phenomenal. So Sonora and Chihuahua are the famous meat states. Ceviches are very common on the Pacific coast.
JD: Some of the lobsters they had down towards the southern part of Baja are amazing.
DW: And you have the state of Oaxaca; it’s one kind of a state of its own.
JD: Oaxacan is such a vast cuisine that has hardly been tapped in this country, and it varies in region. Just go 70 kilometers outside of Oaxaca City, and you’ll find completely different food, more of a Native Indian style cuisine there. It’s wild.
Are there specific dishes that you think have been misunderstood?
DW: It sounds simple, but building the al pastor is very difficult. Every taqueria, every butcher has their own recipe that’s highly guarded, and they won’t divulge any information. Jason’s come up with something that I think can challenge some of the best taquerias in Mexico City.
JD: It’s really interesting because al pastor started in the Yucatán after it made its way there