On any given night, Sue Chan could be sampling new David Chang innovations, launching an issue of Lucky Peach, or karaoking after-hours with Danny Bowien. Sue spent her teen years glued to Martha Stewart instead of Dawson's Creek, so it’s no surprise that she now spends her time with the coolest people in food. In SUE CHEF, the Momofuku brand director takes us into her world––and the kitchens of New York City’s most creative chefs.
As someone who eats out a lot, I’ve come across my share of foams, sauce swooshes, and meat glue. Of course, when done right, complex dishes can be life-altering. But when I'm out on a Friday night with friends, I prefer a simpler, less fussy experience, like the one found at Estela in Nolita. The restaurant reminds me of the modest yet hip caves à manger (aka cellar room cafes) that are all the rage in Paris and Copenhagen. In Estela’s intimate dining room, Chef Ignacio Mattos serves thoughtful and deceptively bold food alongside an accessible wine list curated by co-owner and wine guy Thomas Carter. With dishes like mussels Escabeche on toast (hands down THE best bite in the city), endive salad with walnuts and anchovy, and the beef rib-eye with leeks and taleggio, Ignacio effortlessly proves that remarkable food doesn’t need to be complicated. I hung out with Ignacio in his kitchen and helped make one of my favorite dishes from Estela, his beef tartare with sunchoke.
Sue Chan: How did you get your start in cooking?
Ignacio Mattos: When I graduated from high school in Uruguay in 1998, the kitchen was a completely different scene. Cooking wasn’t cool. Everyone in the kitchen was an outsider; I worked alongside ex-cons. At one point, I was close to leaving the profession. But then, by coincidence, I ended up in the kitchen of a French chef named Michel Kerever, who was [legendary chef] Alain Passard’s mentor. It finally clicked when he showed me French techniques that I had never been exposed to.
Which of your past experiences was the most influential?
Working at Zuni Café changed everything. Chef Judy [Rodgers, who recently passed away] was one of the most underrated chefs. She approached food with a smart and refined palate. I never knew you could be so thoughtful while making simple food. She would take every step seriously. Even when she made a salad, she would obsess over how your fingers handled the salad and how that affected the taste of the dish. You have to be concerned with each stage because it affects the end result.
Can you describe your food?
We’re just trying to make everyday food more fun and interesting. I want people to get excited about food. That’s the most important thing to me.
I love the way you present your food, like how you meticulously layer thin, circular slices of raw mushroom over your ricotta dumplings. Your plating has a natural beauty to it. What’s your thought process behind your plating style?
I express myself through my plating. I just find it much more interesting when something looks unassuming and then you realize it’s something else entirely. I like the surprise element. As you’re eating, I hope you discover new layers and that the flavors build. You’ll notice that a lot of my dishes are plated in a similar way, but each dish, each bite, tastes different.
How much do you and Thomas collaborate on the wines and food?
Thomas and I sometimes taste toget
As someone who eats out a lot, I’ve come across my share of foams, sauce swooshes, and meat glue. Of course, when done right, complex dishes can be life-altering. But when I'm out on a Friday night with friends, I prefer a simpler, less fussy experience, like the one found at Estela in Nolita. The restaurant reminds me of the modest yet hip caves à manger (aka cellar room cafes) that are all the rage in Paris and Copenhagen. In Estela’s intimate dining room, Chef Ignacio Mattos serves thoughtful and deceptively bold food alongside an accessible wine list curated by co-owner and wine guy Thomas Carter. With dishes like mussels Escabeche on toast (hands down THE best bite in the city), endive salad with walnuts and anchovy, and the beef rib-eye with leeks and taleggio, Ignacio effortlessly proves that remarkable food doesn’t need to be complicated. I hung out with Ignacio in his kitchen and helped make one of my favorite dishes from Estela, his beef tartare with sunchoke.
Sue Chan: How did you get your start in cooking?
Ignacio Mattos: When I graduated from high school in Uruguay in 1998, the kitchen was a completely different scene. Cooking wasn’t cool. Everyone in the kitchen was an outsider; I worked alongside ex-cons. At one point, I was close to leaving the profession. But then, by coincidence, I ended up in the kitchen of a French chef named Michel Kerever, who was [legendary chef] Alain Passard’s mentor. It finally clicked when he showed me French techniques that I had never been exposed to.
Which of your past experiences was the most influential?
Working at Zuni Café changed everything. Chef Judy [Rodgers, who recently passed away] was one of the most underrated chefs. She approached food with a smart and refined palate. I never knew you could be so thoughtful while making simple food. She would take every step seriously. Even when she made a salad, she would obsess over how your fingers handled the salad and how that affected the taste of the dish. You have to be concerned with each stage because it affects the end result.
Can you describe your food?
We’re just trying to make everyday food more fun and interesting. I want people to get excited about food. That’s the most important thing to me.
I love the way you present your food, like how you meticulously layer thin, circular slices of raw mushroom over your ricotta dumplings. Your plating has a natural beauty to it. What’s your thought process behind your plating style?
I express myself through my plating. I just find it much more interesting when something looks unassuming and then you realize it’s something else entirely. I like the surprise element. As you’re eating, I hope you discover new layers and that the flavors build. You’ll notice that a lot of my dishes are plated in a similar way, but each dish, each bite, tastes different.
How much do you and Thomas collaborate on the wines and food?
Thomas and I sometimes taste toget