The best bagel in London can be yours for 25p at 159 Brick Lane. 25p! One of the best meals in London for less than 40 cents (discounting the fillings, which will cost you a bit extra). It's like a price that time forgot. But the real story is that this much-loved 24-hour late night food spot, Beigel Bake, is at the heart of a raging 40-year row. Because there is also a bagel store two doors down at number 155 Brick Lane. And the sign above that bagel store says it's "Britain's first & best beigel shop." Factor in a very angry Polish lady (who wouldn't even let us photograph her bagels—a sure sign she has doubts about who's are really best), and you can see what the problem is.
But Beigel Bake is categorically better. I know because when I was last in London, I did a really scientifc and fair taste test. It was conducted like this: it was Saturday morning, I was hungover, Harry and I went to Brick Lane and ordered bagels (plain, with cream cheese) from both shops. We sat on a bench outside and compared them. We found that: a) the cream cheese is delicious at Beigel Bake, it's thicker and has none of that faintly chemical Dairlylea taste you might imagine comes with a 25p-price tag, and b) the dough is chewier at Beigel Bake—in a good way: dense in the middle and little softer towards the outside. In fairness, both bagels were good. But when you're spending 25p, you're allowed to be picky, am I right?
I wanted to let the owner of Beigel Bake know he'd won. He wasn't as overjoyed as I'd imagined when I told him. But he did let us into the kitchen. We watched as he kneaded, rolled, baked, and boiled each tasty circle. I asked him what the secret to a good bagel is, and he gave me a look that was like something Mr. Miyagi would have shot at Daniel-san. "You have to learn," he said, "I've been for 20 years. Every day for 20 years!" And for that we thank you, Mr. Beigel Bake.
Photos by Harry Carr
BEIGEL BAKE
159 Brick Lane,
London E1 6SB
MAP
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The totally unofficial winner of the Brick Lane bagel taste test
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And the totally unofficial runner-up
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Inside Beigel Bake
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These square-ish raisin buns with wonky icing and glacé cherries are so English it's unreal.
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Ribena is the best accompaniment to any meal. Ribena is a blackcurrant squash that mysteriously hasn't taken off anywhere outside of England. Also, as you can see, Harry actually got smoked salmon in his Beigel Bake bagel (yes, it was a super fair test).
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I refused to have a photo taken while I was eating. So here's Harry.
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LOOK at this price list. I don't know what sounds better: six bagels for £1.50 or 180 bagels for £45.
![]()
But Beigel Bake is categorically better. I know because when I was last in London, I did a really scientifc and fair taste test. It was conducted like this: it was Saturday morning, I was hungover, Harry and I went to Brick Lane and ordered bagels (plain, with cream cheese) from both shops. We sat on a bench outside and compared them. We found that: a) the cream cheese is delicious at Beigel Bake, it's thicker and has none of that faintly chemical Dairlylea taste you might imagine comes with a 25p-price tag, and b) the dough is chewier at Beigel Bake—in a good way: dense in the middle and little softer towards the outside. In fairness, both bagels were good. But when you're spending 25p, you're allowed to be picky, am I right?
I wanted to let the owner of Beigel Bake know he'd won. He wasn't as overjoyed as I'd imagined when I told him. But he did let us into the kitchen. We watched as he kneaded, rolled, baked, and boiled each tasty circle. I asked him what the secret to a good bagel is, and he gave me a look that was like something Mr. Miyagi would have shot at Daniel-san. "You have to learn," he said, "I've been for 20 years. Every day for 20 years!" And for that we thank you, Mr. Beigel Bake.
Photos by Harry Carr
BEIGEL BAKE
159 Brick Lane,
London E1 6SB
MAP
The totally unofficial winner of the Brick Lane bagel taste test
And the totally unofficial runner-up
Inside Beigel Bake
These square-ish raisin buns with wonky icing and glacé cherries are so English it's unreal.
Ribena is the best accompaniment to any meal. Ribena is a blackcurrant squash that mysteriously hasn't taken off anywhere outside of England. Also, as you can see, Harry actually got smoked salmon in his Beigel Bake bagel (yes, it was a super fair test).
I refused to have a photo taken while I was eating. So here's Harry.
LOOK at this price list. I don't know what sounds better: six bagels for £1.50 or 180 bagels for £45.
