I've been eating at Danji in Hell's Kitchen for a while now, and a couple of weeks ago, I took Bettina and her boo along for the tasty ride! After our Michelin-star meal (Danji is the first Korean restaurant to receive the star), I slipped into the kitchen to chat with the chef and owner, Hooni Kim.
Joyce Lee: What are the essential elements of a great restaurant?
Hooni Kim: I have different answers for restaurants in Korea, America, and New York. I'll answer for New York: When New Yorkers dine out, they expect more than great food. You have to provide an entire dining experience with great food, music, a multi-faceted interior, mood, lighting, and excellent service. And all of this has to be consistent!
JL: Speaking of interior space, I noticed that, much like the menu, there is a great balance of both modern and traditional decor throughout the space. Is this all your influence?
HK: I wanted the restaurant to be me—even the music is from my iPod. I used to live in Williamsburg so I wanted that "Brooklyn touch," hence the exposed brick wall and modern design. The traditional decorations, like the tiling and masks, are subtle touches.
JL: What is your favorite dish on the menu?
HK: I don't really have a favorite as every dish is constantly changing! The gochu pajeon (a scallion and pepper pancake) has gone through 10 transformations. We are always working to improve our dishes. For the shigol dwenjang jjigae (a spicy, stinky miso beef stew with tofu) we couldn't find the right dwenjang (miso) so we made it ourselves.
JL: Your cocktail menu uses a lot of traditional ingredients like su jung kwa and soju. What do you think about the current mockgoli (traditional rice alcohol) trend?
HK: I offer mockgoli because it's the best alcohol to pair with Korean food. Wine fights the flavors of kimchi, and soju mutes the spiciness and the fattiness of dishes like the pajeon (pancake). In general, mockgoli goes well with any Korean dish. This trend is good because it has made importing Gooksoondang mockgoli (the best mackgoil brand) easy! We've only been able to get it in the States since February 2011. I generally don't follow trends, but in this case, I appreciate it!
JL: I know that you originally studied medicine. Why did you decide to become a chef?
HK: I was never interested in cooking but eating! I was born in Korea and moved to New York at the age of three. My mom was a working single mom, so we ate out a lot and that's how I got my foodie perspective. Whenever I visit Korea, I eat at a lot different restaurants and try to figure out how each dish is cooked. I am actually self-taught.
JL: How do you like to spend your days off?
HK: My only day off is Sunday and I either go out to eat or read. Chefs don't get a lot time off: I work 15-hour days in the kitchen. A chef with a hobby is not a chef! But when you make a living doing what you love, you don't need a hobby.
JL: What do you like to cook on Sundays?
HK: I usually don't like to cook on my day off but if I do, I make a grilled cheese sandwich.
JL: What are some of your favorite restaurants in New York?
HK: I like to go to the restaurants where my friends work like Danielle, 15 East, SD26, Del Posto, and Bar Boulud.
JL: When you visit your friends' restaurants and vice versa, do you give each other advice?
HK: No, a chef must cook for himself and not
Joyce Lee: What are the essential elements of a great restaurant?
Hooni Kim: I have different answers for restaurants in Korea, America, and New York. I'll answer for New York: When New Yorkers dine out, they expect more than great food. You have to provide an entire dining experience with great food, music, a multi-faceted interior, mood, lighting, and excellent service. And all of this has to be consistent!
JL: Speaking of interior space, I noticed that, much like the menu, there is a great balance of both modern and traditional decor throughout the space. Is this all your influence?
HK: I wanted the restaurant to be me—even the music is from my iPod. I used to live in Williamsburg so I wanted that "Brooklyn touch," hence the exposed brick wall and modern design. The traditional decorations, like the tiling and masks, are subtle touches.
JL: What is your favorite dish on the menu?
HK: I don't really have a favorite as every dish is constantly changing! The gochu pajeon (a scallion and pepper pancake) has gone through 10 transformations. We are always working to improve our dishes. For the shigol dwenjang jjigae (a spicy, stinky miso beef stew with tofu) we couldn't find the right dwenjang (miso) so we made it ourselves.
JL: Your cocktail menu uses a lot of traditional ingredients like su jung kwa and soju. What do you think about the current mockgoli (traditional rice alcohol) trend?
HK: I offer mockgoli because it's the best alcohol to pair with Korean food. Wine fights the flavors of kimchi, and soju mutes the spiciness and the fattiness of dishes like the pajeon (pancake). In general, mockgoli goes well with any Korean dish. This trend is good because it has made importing Gooksoondang mockgoli (the best mackgoil brand) easy! We've only been able to get it in the States since February 2011. I generally don't follow trends, but in this case, I appreciate it!
JL: I know that you originally studied medicine. Why did you decide to become a chef?
HK: I was never interested in cooking but eating! I was born in Korea and moved to New York at the age of three. My mom was a working single mom, so we ate out a lot and that's how I got my foodie perspective. Whenever I visit Korea, I eat at a lot different restaurants and try to figure out how each dish is cooked. I am actually self-taught.
JL: How do you like to spend your days off?
HK: My only day off is Sunday and I either go out to eat or read. Chefs don't get a lot time off: I work 15-hour days in the kitchen. A chef with a hobby is not a chef! But when you make a living doing what you love, you don't need a hobby.
JL: What do you like to cook on Sundays?
HK: I usually don't like to cook on my day off but if I do, I make a grilled cheese sandwich.
JL: What are some of your favorite restaurants in New York?
HK: I like to go to the restaurants where my friends work like Danielle, 15 East, SD26, Del Posto, and Bar Boulud.
JL: When you visit your friends' restaurants and vice versa, do you give each other advice?
HK: No, a chef must cook for himself and not