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    On a recent Sunday, we stopped by bitforms gallery’s new location on the Lower East Side to drink a Modelo and talk models with artist R. Luke DuBois—though not the type of models you might guess. DuBois, a self-taught programmer, is the focal point of 131 Allen’s inaugural exhibit—literally, one could argue. The standout of the exhibit, Self-portrait, 1993-2014, is a data visualization masterpiece: a web of nodes that DuBois created using data from his different e-mail accounts. Each e-mail address he’s contacted in the last five years is a major node; Dubois painstakingly hand-wrote the name of each contact, scanned it, and used an algorithm to place every name on the web. In this piece, each one of DuBois’s personas is a mathematical foci of the print.

    There’s something awesome about the way DuBois makes the scary deluge of emails we all receive intimate and personal. In (Pop) Icon: Britney, the artist uses data to get up close and personal with the woman herself. Amassing a collection of all of her videos (41, per wikipedia!), DuBois creates a breathtaking moving portrait in which Brit’s eyes are the focal point, a style that recalls traditional Byzantine iconography. Surrounded by a gold, baroque frame, the singer’s eyes always remain in one place even as she morphs from teenager to MILF and back again. The viewer can never escape her purvey, and surely this is how some Baby Boomers feel about her, too—infinitely trapped by her voice at intervals throughout their lives, perhaps while shopping at Target or chaperoning a child’s first middle school dance. The piece plays a mashup of her “a cappella” songs, which she makes available for fan-art, run through a machine of DuBois’s design that layers multiple tracks simultaneously and runs them through a convolution reverb algorithm. 




    A programmer by trade, this writer was extremely curious about how DuBois managed to code these works into existence. The artist was kind enough to answer some of our questions via (what else?) e-mail. Be sure to stop by bitforms next time you’re on the LES—trust us, it’s worth taking a vacation from looking at your own digital screens to spend some time looking at DuBois’s.


    KATIE BARNWELL: Can you explain in greater depth how you generated the sounds effect in (Pop) Icon: Britney?
    R. LUKE DUBOIS: The reverb I used for Britney comes from the Basilica of San Vitale in Ravenna, Italy, which is one of the most important remaining sites of Byzantine iconography. The piece itself is a play in this kind of visual iconography. The impulse response of the space was sampled by acousticians at the University of Bologna, Italy, in 2008 while doing research on the unique character of the space. They provided me with the impulse response files.

    Convolution reverb is where, rather than computationally modeling a space, you use the impulse response of a real acoustic space (a church, the trunk of a car, whatever) as your reverb. You do this by going into the space you want captured and firing an "impulse" through it... ideally an infinitely short burst of white noise, or a sine wave sweep of every frequency you can hear. This captures how the space interacts with all the frequencies, and you record the result. You then do a frequency-domain multiplication of the sound you want reverberated and the recording of the reverberation itself... that way, it crea

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    Here, Shanghai-based fashion writer and marketing director Stephany Zoo explains the protocol behind one of China's most indulgent holidays. 

    All other holidays in China, such as the Moon Festival and Chinese New Year, are reserved exclusively for facilities and four-hour-long, carb-heavy, banquet-style dinners. But Golden Week belongs to your best friends and significant others. This holiday is the Chinese-yuppie version of spring break.

    Because of the sheer number of people who flood out of the major cities to destinations, my friends and I start planning months in advance. The early planning only draws out the the anticipation of the much-awaited and much-needed vacation. The common Chinese greeting is “Have you eaten yet?” but during these months, the more common phrase you hear is “Where are you going for Golden Week?"

    First we consider, Sanya—the Chinese Miami, a lot of new money, great beaches, and resorts. It’s a week of tropical drinks on the yachts of chummy fu er dai, the spoiled sons of mega-rich Chinese industrial magnates. Unfortunately, there are often visa problems for those carrying Chinese passports—and, admittedly, we want to avoid a certain ex. Thankfully, Thailand is both easy to get into and get to (there are hundreds of direct flights from Shanghai to Bangkok). Bangkok always provides good shopping in the form of J.J. (also known as Chatuchak) Market—the largest weekend market in the world—with everything from trendy emerging Thai fashion designers to home decor products in bulk. The ideal plan involves spending a couple of days in the capital and then moving on to Ko Phi Phi, which is abundant with villa options. 

    For many, there is one mission and only one mission in mind: shopping. We considered the closer options of Tokyo and Seoul, but those are easy enough to be a weekend trip. Paris or London are viable as well, but it’s been nearly a year since I’ve been back in New York, and it tugs at my soul. The call of recently released products or exclusives only available in certain American flagships is strong. Finally, we all give in: New York City, the Holy Grail of shopping, dining, and photo opportunities. We will take a million photos of the yellow cabs, shopping bags on Fifth Avenue, and desserts at Sant Ambroeus. After we announce that we’re going, our social media floods with requests from perfume to shoes from other jealous friends who can’t go to New York.

    Because of Chinese sky-high export taxes, everything from daily needs such as makeup to special purchases can be marked up almost twice or three times the price you would find in the country of origin. I’ve been eyeing a new Proenza Schouler purse, and the amount of money I will save from the US price justifies my plane ticket to New York.

    For those who stay in Shanghai, every year everyone brings inflatable hammers to People’s Square and initiates an epic fight that can last for hours—queueing in line for everything from Louis Vuitton keychains and American-sourced toiletries to the latest Hong Kong gadget, the electronic fork equivalent to the Jawbone Up. Workers from KFC and McDonald’s, wearing their uniforms, will even declare war on each other. The police don&r

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    Ten performers, five stages, and fours hours of mixes by DJs held court at MOCA Los Angeles’ Step and Repeat on Saturday night. Opening Ceremony's line-up of DJs Dangel xxx, open1one, and Psychopop kept the crowd dancing, while inside at The Geffen Contemporary, guests and MOCA members could explore the vast space.

    Wu Tsang and boychild kicked off the evening with a bang heard all across the Internet. Their instantly Instagrammed performance, Moved by the Motion, featured boychild’s signature movement (too raw and fluid to be called choreography) and striking full-body makeup over Wu Tsang’s spoken word piece, musically enhanced by their collaboration with cellist Patrick Belaga. Upstairs, gallery-goers found readings by Trisha Low, Aaron Kunin, and Fred Moten, whose most recent collection landed on the 2014 National Book Award Longlist for poetry just last week.

    Back downstairs on the center stage, Marina Rosenfeld filled the space with her own ambient soundscape. Nestled in the corner of an enclosed gallery space, Jack Name and three other guitarists asked attendees to strap on headphones cued to a radio frequency broadcasting their performance—or lose the headphones and watch them strum in silence. Comedians Kate Berlant and Derrick Beckles entertained with their individual sets of dark, unconventional humor in yet another corner of the gallery. To top off the evening, San Francisco-based experimental musicians Oxbow, led by the dominant force of vocalist Eugene Robinson accompanied by guitar, cello, and drums, and later joined by French horns, invited viewers to huddle up around their setup on the main floor.

    Check out the images above for a peek at the performances and guests, including boychild, Dangel xxx, Malcolm Stuart, and Bec Stupak.

    Read our interview with Marina Rosenfeld here

    Find tickets and more info on next week’s Step and Repeat event hereWu Tsang and boychild perform Moved by the Motion. Photos by Stryder BartowComedian Kate BerlantMalcolm Stuart and Bec Stupak
    Dangel xxx
    Wu Tsang and boychild kicked off the evening with a bang heard all across the Internet. Their performance featured boychild’s signature movement and striking full-body makeup over Wu Tsang’s spoken word piece.Niko Wenner from OxbowComedian Derrick BecklesMarina Rosenfeld

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    Any animated movie that has the ability to make ogres lovable and Smash Mouth songs listenable definitely has the means to make swamp-inspired fashion relevant. It's been almost 15 years since Shrek premiered and parents and children alike fell in love with a giant green ogre and his fairytale friends. Now, with the new Jeremy Scott x Shrek capsule collection, which premiered on the runway this month during NYFW, you no longer need those ancient DVDs to return to the kingdom of Far Far Away. 

    While we are pretty sure the iconic ogre might not physically fit into the Shrek Face Embroidered Cropped Sweater, there are plenty of loose-fitting, comfy pieces to pair with any outfit in this collection. The Plaid Fleece Sweatpants offer a new take on Shrek's signature color palette, while the Knit Dress is embroidered with enough adorable green faces to complete a franchise of sequels. And, if any item of clothing could make #sexyswampchic a thing, it's the Plaid Zipper Front Bra, in a structured bustier silhouette. Can ogres be as fashionable as Barbies? Only if they're designed by Jeremy Scott.

    Shop all Jeremy Scott x Shrek here 
     Shrek Happens! Tie-Dye T-Shirt in green
    Shrek Face Embroidered Cropped Sweater in yellow/green and Shrek Plaid Jean Skirt in green/brown
    Shrek Face Embroidered Knit Sweater in yellow/greenShrek Face Embroidered Knit Dress in yellow/greenShrek Plaid Zipper F

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    What does it take for something to be truly "fucking awesome?" Magazines calling Chanel hair accessories "urban caps"? Not quite. Skateboarding legend Jason Dill joining forces with Chloë Sevigny for his streetwear line? Now that's certifiably Fucking Awesome. 

    Thirteen years ago, Dill filtered his own fashion preferences into his own bi-coastal brand, Fucking Awesome, and graciously decided to share his streetwear with the world of skaters and downtown-dwelling fashion kids alike. Nowadays, Dill has no problem kicking it old school, recently featuring actress, designer, and OC collaborator Chloë Sevigny's retro school photo—and her shaved head from back in her angsty days—on long and short-sleeved tees. You can even shred with Sevigny on the Fucking Awesome skateboard deck that prominently displays the same photo and in-your-face Fucking Awesome logo in pink. These pieces are must-have collectors items that look just as nice hung up in your closet as they do riding the rails. 

    Shop all Fucking Awesome X Chloë Sevigny here Chloe Class Photo Long-Sleeve Tee in pink/multi Chloe Class Photo Short-Sleeve Tee in pink/white Chloe Class Photo Skateboard Deck in pink multi 

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    Stromae is Belgium’s Beyoncé. He is a versatile musician who is adored almost universally by audiences and critics. He creates highly effective pop music, which hopscotches across a wide host of genres and traditions. His each and every move is documented and analyzed by the (Francophone) press. Yet, he is also a perfectionist who seems to be in total control of his image—from his strikingly colorful outfits to his tightly orchestrated live shows and TV performances. And he can sing, dance, and put on a show like it’s nobody’s business.

    Stromae is the guise under which Paul Van Haver bundles his different persona—be it gender-bending, taking two sides of a bickering couple’s argument in the electro-swing of "Tous Les Mêmes," playing a stumbling drunk in the break-up anthem "Formidable," or toying around with techno and afropop in "Papaoutai," a little boy’s heart-rending cri de coeur for his absent father. That last one seemingly unites the worlds of Stromae and Paul Van Haver, who was born to a Flemish mother and Rwandan father who died in the 1994 Rwandan genocide. Van Haver earned his stripes in Brussels’ underground hip-hop scene, before composing “Alors On Dance” in his bedroom at his mother’s house. The song became a worldwide hit (even Kanye West jumped on a remix). His first album Cheese sold over 200,000 copies in the world, and the rest is history.

    With the release of his sophomore album Racine Carre in 2013, Stromae solidified his status as a superstar. In the French-speaking world, he is now arguably even Bigger Than Beyonce: he has sold more than three million copies of his album, outselling even Daft Punk in France, and when he performed at a festival in Morocco, 180,000 people showed up to see him—leaving other acts like Rihanna and Justin Timberlake in his wake. While he might not have reached that status in the US (yet), he did just play two Terminal 5 shows that sold out months in advance. We dusted off our French vocabulaire and caught up with him at the Universal offices in New York.


    PIETER COLPAERT: Bonjour Stromae! You have been on tour almost non-stop this year. How are you feeling now?
    STROMAE: I am feeling good, ‘cause I had some rest. It’s the paradox of being human—having ambition is great, and if I don’t play a lot of shows I get unhappy, but at a certain point you just realize you are really tired. I felt that my body couldn’t take it anymore, so I took some holidays.

    In an earlier interview with Complex, you mentioned wanting to take a break—maybe three or four years. That caused some uproar; it was all over the newspapers back in Belgium…
    You know, I have been talking about taking a break for a long time and I am definitely planning on it. I wouldn’t even call it taking a break—people expect me to be making music non-stop, but between the first and second album, there was a pause of three or four years as well. Back then, I also said: "I need some time to work, to rest, and to live a bit so I have things to talk about" Back then, no one cared. It’s the paradox of success: you’ll say things that are perfectly normal in life, and then you’ll see newspapers, say

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    In Straight Trippin', OC friends and family share tidbits from their latest travels. This time, London contributor Alice Tate share snaps from her recent trip to the sleepy Aix-en-Provence.

    Names: Alice Tate 
    Occupation: London OC contributor and freelance lifestyle journalist 
    Travel destination: Aix-en-Provence, France—home of the very sweet, delicious Calisson (marzipan and royal icing delicacy)
    Carry-on necessities: Headphones, lip balm, and a pen—I'm terrible at sitting still but when I do, ideas tend to come thick and fast!
    Reading materials: Escapism, a brilliant free London magazine that inspires far too much wanderlust
    Most over-played track on your iPhone this trip: "Can't Do Without You" and "All I Ever Need" by Caribou (the new album, Our Love, is epic!)
    Favorite outfit to travel in: Opening Ceremony's Fingerprint Skinny Jeans, Band of Outsiders' Stitch Boxy Shirt, and EYTYS' Mother Canvas Sneaker, with all my possessions crammed into my overly full IKUMI backpack
    Highlight of your trip: Visiting the Klimt show at Carrières de Lumieres, one of the most incredible art spectacles I've ever experienced. The completely immersive experience sees you in a giant, cold quarry with jazzy Klimt projections bouncing across every stone wall, floor and ceiling, accompanied by classical music. Also, Aix-en-Provence is stunning, but equally so is the empty pool and Hammam at the Renaissance Aix-en-Provence hotel.
    Souvenirs you brought back: Calisson, the local date of origin-stamped delicacy, and as many bottles of the local red wine as British Airways would allow When in France... eat well. The freshest of sea bass with colorful zucchinis. Photos by Alice TateTurns out Picasso's asylum was damn pretty.On repeat: Caribou "Can't Do Without You"So French! (Yes, a lot of wine was consumed on this trip)

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    This season, Opening Ceremony is giving you an all-access pass to Paris Fashion Week. Above, everything you need to know about Léa Peckre's Spring/Summer 2015 show. Scroll through to see our favorite looks and backstage snaps! 

    Want more from Paris Fashion Week? Stay up-to-the-minute on SS15, right here.Photos by Christina Paik





     

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  • 09/22/14--21:00: 9 Ways To Go Faux For Fall
  • Shrimps designer Hannah Weiland is giving the uptown furriers a run for their money with fizzy-colored coats so butter-soft and fluffy, it's hard to tell if the materials are real, faux, or faux faur fur. She's not alone—a coterie of influential designers are all in line, eschewing purist materials for their animal-friendly doppelgängers, from magenta snakeskin and iridescent leopard, to bouclé "denim" and painterly cow patches.

    Russian wunderkind Gosha Rubchinsky's word is bond, especially when he decided to make faux fur for men an actuality with his chubby leopard-print coats and hoodies. But the latest incarnations go beyond Muppetland—think anti-cookie cutter animal patterns inspired by modern optic motifs. Got milk? Moschino riffed off the bovine trend with its comically sumptuous Long Coat, embroidered with cow patches. We can also guarantee that no animals were harmed in the making of Christopher Kane's Snakeskin Allover Jog Pants.

    When it comes to fashionable pieces that won't offend your "morally-correct" vegan neighbors, sometimes it's best if you fake it 'til you make it. Here, nine of our favorite ways to go faux. 


    Shrimps Dulcie Striped Coat in navy/flameHartono Angki Faux Oversized Jeans in light blue Rachel Comey Perforated Combo Rainboots in whiskeyMoschino Long Coat in ivoryGosha Rubchinsky Leopard Print Hooded Coat in pinkChristopher Kane

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    What's fashion week like for an OC buyer? Garance Doré spent a day with our womenswear maestro Lisa Jones to find out. It's not all parties and shows: "There’s a real mix of us going to every showroom, new presentations, and then also getting emails from new brands," she told the blog. "We get a ton of lookbooks sent every season and open every one that’s sent." Discovering new talent is, of course, part of OC's DNA, and, it turns out, Lisa's favorite part of her job. "[Young designers] are so passionate about what they do and often have a very strong individual viewpoint," she said. "It makes my job very fulfilling to give some direction to the [ones] that are super creative but might need some advice in building their business and commerciality."

    In between selecting the pieces that will hit OC stores next season, there's also some time to relax: coffee at the Smile, walk-throughs at the OC flagship store, and, occasionally, a massage. "My new favorite place to relax in New York is Great Jones Spa—I’d spend every free moment I had in there if I could."

    Read the story on Garance Doré here

    Read more about how OC spent fashion week here 


    OC womenswear buyer Lisa Jones in Prada shoes, a SS15 Isa Arfen skirt, and OC's Izzy Handbag backpack in black. Photos by Garance Doré

    "Most days I’ll walk through the store to check on the new season deliveries before heading out to appointments and shows," Lisa told the blog.

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    This season, Opening Ceremony is giving you an all-access pass to Paris Fashion Week. Above, everything you need to know about Jacquemus' Spring/Summer 2015 show. Scroll through to see our favorite looks and backstage snaps! 

    Want more from Paris Fashion Week? Stay up-to-the-minute on SS15, right here

    Shop Jacquemus' current collection here



    Simon Porte Jacquemus (left) in his own all-white ensemble

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    Even the fashion elite know how to pay it forward. Last spring, Opening Ceremony founders Carol Lim and Humberto Leon participated as judges in the annual Hyères Festival. There, they awarded Ukrainian designer Yulia Yefimtchuk with the Opening Ceremony donation. As part of this special prize, the designer's collections would be carried in Opening Ceremony stores—yes, you get to shop her pieces for two whole seasons. Everybody's a winner here.

    With her bold color choices and sly fashion messages, Yefimtchuk has created a conceptual fashion line that mixes political elements and art together in the most understated way. Inspired by Constructivist design and architecture, the designer features geometric cut-outs, block lettering, and austere silhouettes in her Fall/Winter 2014 collection. Fire-engine-red tones light up oversized collar shirts, while sophisticated proportions are apparent in her A-line skirts. With a Contrast Sleeves Text Dress that exclaims "Every day is happier to live in!" and a Front Pocket Text Shirt that proclaims "World-Peace!" in Russian, you can make a statement before anyone even realizes what they're reading. 

    Shop all Yulia Yefimtchuk here 






    Long-Sleeve Contrast Belt Dress in redCut-Out Skirt in white Contrast Sleeves Text Dress in white Asymmetrical Midi Skirt in black    Open Back Oversized Collar Shirt in redWoven Pants in black 

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    As models clad in Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2015 walked down the runway today, one observer, Pamela Golbin, looked on with particular investment—and understanding. The curator spent years working on the Musée des Arts Decoratifs' current exhibit with the art-sensitive designer, after all. 

    This is Golbin’s 21st year with the museum, but this did not prevent her from accessing something completely novel with this exhibit—the extension of its run and success of its book stand as testament to its unusual perspective. OC sat with Golbin behind the museum in the Tuileries, below the exhibit’s floral signage, to talk about the experience of working with Van Noten and the conception of its book counterpart.

    Shop Pamela's book, Dries Van Noten here
    See the Dries Van Noten: Inspirations exhibit in Paris through November 2


    R. BENOIT: This is a jarringly intimate exhibit, from the space itself to how it makes you feel. Why do you think that is?
    PAMELA GOLBIN: Dries is not someone who... how can I say it... is extremely open—he is very discreet. We started our conversation over two years ago. I invited him to come and see our textile collection. What became clear very quickly was that neither him nor I wanted a retrospective. It’s just not him, and it’s not his work. So it was very much about his thematic vocabulary, his signature style.

    For someone who’s so discreet, it was incredible to see how open he was about sharing his creative process, and this is an exhibition about the creative process. It became a portrait—it is a self-portrait of Dries, and by definition a portrait has an intimacy to it.

    Because we were treating something that was so personal to him, it was important to make the space human and really as if you were walking through his home. It is about him, his love, his passion, and his creative process, so it had to be intimate. I think that’s what comes out in the exhibition and why it’s been so successful. It is a very clear and very intimate point of view.

    How did you access that intimacy?
    There was a lot of push and pull—a lot of pushing—to get that, and once he opened up he’s someone who just lets it all out once he starts. So there’s a lot of trust, and I think what’s incredible about this project has been the trust that he had in me, and our institution, and also in the public, because for someone who stays pretty much reserved and outside of the fashion world, to finally speak and speak in such a way, was about trust and intimacy.

    Was the book at the back of your mind as you worked on the exhibit, or did the two happen separately?
    The book was essential to the process. Dries always works on several different things and they feed off each other. It was very important to him to find the right artistic director, and we worked with Joseph Logan.

    I feel like part of the book’s success is owed to its amazing cover!
    So the cover is actually, [laughs] that’s so Dries, because we showed him a fabric from the 19th century—it dates back from 1889, it won the gold prize at the universal exhibition, and in looking at

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    This season, Opening Ceremony is giving you an all-access pass to Paris Fashion Week. Above, everything you need to know about Hood By Air's Spring/Summer 2015 women's show. Scroll through to see our favorite looks and backstage snaps! 

    Want more from Paris Fashion Week? Stay up-to-the-minute on SS15, right here

    Shop Hood by Air' current collection here

    Photos by Christina Paik








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    Here at OC, we are struck by how often we end up in everyday conundrums. The ones that land you in the thick of semi (or full-blown) awkwardness, or maybe, the doghouse. 

    So, we turned to Simon Collins, the
     dean of the School of Fashion at Parsons, who after six years in his plum perch, just announced plans to step down at the end of this year. Translation: More time to divulge lessons from a lifetime of Fashion Weeks and seasonal wardrobe changes. 



    Q: Who are all these "fashion bloggers" that preen and parade outside of Fashion Week hubs, waiting for someone to notice them? Are you only important as your last street-style photo?

    There are lots of people who willingly or otherwise get labeled "fashion bloggers." The literal meaning is someone who writes a web log about fashion. I’ll try to explain a few of the different types:

    Fashion Blogger (Actual): There aren’t too many of these. They are people who know a bit about fashion, write about it, have a point of view, and have people actually read what they write. Some are respected and followed widely. They can dress in a certain way, or "follow fashion" as it’s sometimes known. They can earn lots of cash for liking things.

    Fashion Blogger (Who Wear Short Dresses): There are people who mainly post pictures of themselves wearing skimpy dresses. They may or may not write copy, as the people who follow them tend to be occupied with other things when the new picture is posted. Men who aren’t very interested in fashion make up a large part of their readership. They can earn lots of cash for wearing things.

    Fashion Blogger (Who Are Sentient Bipeds): These people congregate around places where they think fashion is happening, then desperately posture and grimace in the hope of being photographed, usually by each other. They can sometimes count up to eight and they wear curtains for clothes. There was once one who knew the English word for pants. Jimmy Kimmel featured some of them recently on his "Lie Witness News" segment. They can earn large sums from hapless corporations who are trying to "reach millennials."  

    In conclusion, actual bloggers are as good as any other venerable fashion writer. The others are an entertaining and harmless distraction. Rather like a petting zoo.

    Q: Are fall's new beginnings overrated? What's the value in longevity these days?

    How anyone can bear to live in a city that isn’t New York is entirely beyond me. I don’t just mean that everything is in NYC, but ponder for an instant the changing of the seasons.

    Late September means green leaves turning to red to brown and falling gently to nourish Mother Earth. Or whatever. What it means to me and thousands of others is: WARDROBE CHANGE. 

    So why do people persist in buying trashy clothes and wearing them for a mere season? It’s a mystery to me. Legend has it that Einstein had multiples of one uniform outfit, and he simply rotated the same things every day. 

    Seek quality gear that not only makes you look good but will tickle you season after season as you pluck it from the depths of Manhatta

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    It's no secret that the Fall/Winter 2014 Kenzo collection was inspired by the work of macabre mastermind David Lynch. Carol and Humberto collaborated with the director on the set, mood, and soundtrack for the collection's runway show—a spectacle of bold neon colors, dreamy knits, and surreal patterns that could only be called Lynchian.


    In addition to creating recent cinema's most eerie and emotive moments, the filmmaker is also responsible for some of its most iconic female characters. Here, we examine the women of Lynch’s works and relay—through GIFs, of course—what they would have worn when they weren't busy singing about Blue Velvet, serving coffee, or being killed. From cherry-eating bad gal Audrey Horne in Twin Peaks to the innocent wardrobe of Sandy Williams in Blue Velvet, here are some of our favorite Lynch ladies in their preferred Kenzo Fall/Winter 2014 pieces.


    Lil the Dancer from Twin Peaks: Fire Walk With Me
    Lil didn’t necessarily have a large role in Lynch's film prequel to the Twin Peaks series, but the bizarre gyrations, "dance moves," and flicking of her hands were enough to leave viewers stunned and bewildered. With her fire-red hair, customized red dress, and signature blue rose, Lil was a Twin Peaks fashion icon in the making. 

    Audrey Horne from Twin Peaks 
    Oh, Audrey Horne. It wasn’t hard to find a girl that secretly wanted to be Horne or a guy that openly wanted to be with her. It was game over as soon as she slipped off those innocent saddle shoes and switched into red kitten heels to start the school day in the pilot episode. From her va-va-voom bad girl ways to the rare tender moments that captured viewers' attention, Horne always kept things sexy with her plethora of sweaters and pleated skirts. 
     
    Camilla Rhodes from Mulholland Drive 
    When Hollywood director Adam Kesher declares "This is the girl" after Camilla Rhodes' audition in Lynch's film masterpiece Mulholland Drive, you know it's real. After her rendition of Linda Scott's "I've Told Every Little Star," Rhodes lands the role and cements her spot as a part of the cast... and we can't help but think that sparkly pink dress she wore helped. 

    Donna Hayward from Twin Peaks 
    Long before the Kim Kardashian crying face, there was the Donna Hayward crying face. While the seemingly good girl couldn't seem to catch a break and everyone she loved simply seemed to die off or disappear, the one constant in Hayward’s life was her love for tie-neck sweaters and comfy cardigans, floor-grazing skirts, and cigarettes. 

    Lucy Moran from Twin Peaks 
    Rarely seen past the waist-up due to her receptionist desk, the high-pitch

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    The '60s are back, and in a good way. From clumpy Twiggy lashes to short-short skirts with tights, pop-tastic prints to Barbie, let’s just say that we’ll be taking prim, proper, and mod to the next level this year.

    All the more reason to watch Jimi: All Is By My Side, the Jimi Hendrix biopic starring Outkast’s André Benjamin (a.k.a. André 3000) as its lead. Taking place in London during the late 1960s, the movie is an ode to both the musical legend and the colorful, dynamic era. “There was this huge youth culture, and they were spending more money on fashion,” costume designer Leonie Pendergast said. “It was box dresses, mini skirts with turtlenecks, go-go boots, and kitten heels, which was very Italian-inspired.”

    Hendrix himself was hardly lacking in the fashion department. The guitarist became known for his technicolor jackets, velvet pants, and signature afro. So how does one live up that legendary style? We asked costume designer Leonie Pendergast how she got all the stellar vintage kicks.


    Step One: Research, Research, Research
    “Most people, when they think of Hendrix, they think of wide flares, early '70s,” Pendergast said. “But that wasn’t always the case.” So Pendergast hit the books, the magazines, and the photographs, pinpointing iconic outfits with director John Ridley. “There was his army jacket, the orange velvet suit, the Western hat,” she said, “And then we did loads of research on how they looked, how they were made, the fabrics, everything.”

    Part of the process was finding out where Hendrix shopped. “There were a couple vintage stores around in 1966, on Carnaby Street, and also King’s Road in Chelsea,” Pendergast said. “There was Granny Takes a Trip, where he may have gotten the British army jacket, and Dandie Fashions, where he got the orange velvet vintage jacket.”

    Step Two: Meet the Right People

    While Hendrix’s pieces weren’t available for the production, plenty of the clothes were originals from the '60s—or at least, replicas made directly from originals. “I met so many amazing people, like one guy who specialized in '60s fashion,” Pendergast said. “He gave me original books, original clothes.” Pendergast also rented clothes from Irish DJ Dandelion, who has a penchant for all things mod. “She has all original '60s clothes, like Mary Quant dresses, jackets, go-go boots,” Pendergast said. “To have that was amazing. Everyone was so nice. I like to call it the costume designer’s karma.”

    Step Three: If All Else Fails, Make it Yourself
    All the iconic Hendrix pieces in the film are replicas, seeing as originals would’ve had to be altered to fit André Benjamin. So Pendergast called up her most trusted tailors, had them handcraft the pieces, and added the details by hand. That “gypsy eye” silk jacket with a psychedelic print? Hand-painted by Pendergast herself. “I have a background in textile design, and I love painting,” she said, “so I just did it over a weekend, since they needed it for Monday morning.”

    As for the military jacket (of the infamous police stop-and-frisk scene), the designers did

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    At first glance, the pages of Jason Jaworski’s book sea do not suggest the artist got his start making zines as a kid after fudging report cards at Kinko’s. Yet after rifling through his studio’s shelves, lingering signs of those rag-tag beginnings emerge. “It’s actually a Sanrio camera,” he said of the plastic half-frame apparatus he used to shoot his latest photo collection. “It used to have Hello Kitty on it, but I’ve used it so much it rubbed off.”

    Each limited edition book in his new series MOIS, released once a month over the course of 2014, serve as travelogues. sea, now available at OC, documents the streets of Mexico City after a gas leak caused an unexpected explosion during his first visit to the city in January 2013. Jason channels that event in his collection in part by setting the cover image against charcoal and underneath a sheet of melted plastic. To enhance the effect of the explosion’s gritty aftermath, Jason’s developing process involved pummeling his negatives with boiling water, intentional light leaks, and sun exposure. MOIS launched at the 2014 Los Angeles Art Book Fair with his first edition, a limited collection of images from his travels in Taiwan entitled Rome Alone. “I’m a super book nerd, I love having books. So I just started making them myself,” he told us, gesturing to his packed bookshelves.

    This month, we visited Jason in the home he shares with his girlfriend in Glendale. His former studio building in Downtown LA, where he had started working on paintings before shifting his energies back to his book projects, was recently bulldozed to the ground. Faced with the task of finding a new space, Jason hastily repurposed space in his kitchen into a home studio.

    When we start to explore his studio, the first object Jason breaks out from his piles of oddities is a hand-carved wooden bust affixed with a black-and-white portrait, a treasure he originally discovered on his trip to Mexico. (The woman who sold it to him claimed looked like Elvis. “I was like, ‘That does not look like Elvis…!’” he joked, handing off the carving for us to inspect.) The bust served as inspiration for the MOIS series’ third book, so he returned to Mexico last month to find the man who makes them. Below, our conversation with Jason about the globetrotting behind his work from the witchcraft markets of Mexico City, to the radioactive regions of post-Fukushima Japan.

    Shop Jason Jaworski's zines 
    here


    NOAH ADLER: So, all of the books in this series cover different cities?
    JASON JAWORSKI: All the books are on cities. The next one is going to be with portraits that I did in Japan right after the earthquake. 

    When you went to Mexico City, did you have a plan?
    I was just going with friends. I had always wanted to go, growing up on the border and loving Mexico. We wanted to see the crazy witchcraft market, Zocalo (the central plaza), and the pyramids. After the explosion, all the people I was with were like, “We gotta stay inside.” And I was like, “We gotta go outside!” So me and my friend Lewis would just walk around and take photos.

    What was in the witchcraft market?
    [Laughs] It was crazy. There were something like 20 goats crammed in a space the size of that couch you’re sitting on. I was with my friend, and she was like, “This is

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    As anyone waiting for that boy/girl to text knows, updates can be just as important as dates. In Cosmic Numbers, Morgan Rehbock, the guru behind our monthly Astrology IRL column, divines the stars to bring you in-the-moment advice on important dates. 

     
    LIBRA
    (September 23 - October 22)
    After months of missed connections, your love life is finally back in the groove! Things will only heat up as October begins.
     
    SCORPIO
    (October 23 - November 22)
    Positive career karma is promoting your vibe as we move in to October. You are the cosmic CEO of your personal corporation. 
     
    SAGITTARIUS
    (November 23 - December 21)
    You're feeling totally re-energized and rejuvenated by the cosmic effects of your Mars Return. Enjoy the positive vibes as October begins—they are a fall trend for you this year!
     
    CAPRICORN
    (December 22 - January 19)
    It's important for someone as grounded as you to have a perfectly positive place to call home. Luckily, the universe has planned to deliver a huge shipment of good vibes straight to your front door today.
     
    AQUARIUS
    (January 20 - February 19)
    You are the "It-sign" of the Zodiac right now, and your social network is expanding exponentially. Make sure you have time to tend to all your commitments. 
     
    PISCES
    (February 20 - March 20)
    Your finances have been in constant flux this year, but your bank account will finally be receiving a deposit of positive vibes as we enter October under a truly fortunate sky.
     
    ARIES
    (March 21 - April 20)
    Things are popping off for you this fall! I can't express how hot the aspects are for you to fully express your creative potential, find love, and generally get your LIFE! Can you feel the vibe?
     
    TAURUS
    (April 21 - May 20)
    Three planets in fire signs are making magic happen today, and you'll experience this on a completely different plane of existence. You are a super-spiritual diva! 
     
    GEMINI
    (May 21 - June 20)
    Positive vibes are everywhere this week, but you'll get the maximum impact through social affairs.
     
    CANCER
    (June 21 - July 22)
    Hard work is finally paying off, and you're seeing major financial rewards for the work you've put in to your career over the past year. 
     
    LEO
    (July 23 - August 22)
    The good vibes you are emitting are totally contagious, and everyone around you feels totally elated this week. The energy you have right now is super special, and the vibes won't be this awesome for another 12 years, so take full advantage of this moment for life.
     
    VIRGO
    (August 23 - September 22)
    Everything is coming in to focus this week, and the picture is perfectly positive. You have unlimited support from Jupiter in Leo, a truly angelic position.

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    Move over, PS1—there's a new Proenza Schouler staple bag coming for the arms and shoulders of the fashion elite. Introducing the PS Elliot: a perfectly-sized bag with a statement front flap that comes in both shoulder bag and clutch form. The Proenza Schouler boys have always created bags for It bloggers, uptown housewives, and trendy kids everywhere, and they aim to keep their handbag momentum going with the introduction of this new style. 

    The PS Elliot comes in a grey and black combo, as well as a black and cyan mix, with cobalt blue and light grey fur-flap details, respectively. And don't worry—vegan leather options are available in the shoulder bag. The colorful pebbled details on the side of all of the bags also make for the perfect pop of color. But for a more polished look, the PS11 is back, too, in a shiny burgundy patent leather. See? That's all your bases covered, as expected from your most hardworking accessory. 

    Shop all Proenza Schouler herePS Elliot Fur Clutch in cobalt/grey/black PS Elliot Fur Clutch in grey/black/cyanPS Elliot Veg Leather Shoulder Bag in charcoal/black PS Elliot Veg Leather Shoulder Bag in pinot noir/charcoalPS 11 Mini Classic Patent Leather Bag in pinot noir

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