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Tonya Hawkes' Straight-Up Stunning Clutches

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The first thing that comes to mind when laying eyes on a Tonya Hawkes clutch: There is still plenty of love for the ornate and flamboyant. Inspired at early age by fine leather craftsmanship, Hawkes studied at FIT, before the birth of a storied career in design, taking on executive roles at fashion houses like DKNY and Furla.

And since 2005, the Italy-based Hawkes has worked on her own eponymous label. From snakeskin box clutches studded with Lucite and gunmetal, to calfskin leather adorned with chain straps, her current collection combines the opulent sensibilities of the mid-20th century with today’s technologies, a nostalgic and bold use of geometry mingled with an unapologetic affection for grandeur. 

Shop all Tonya Hawkes HERE

CORAL VIPER SNAKESKIN BOX CLUTCH with White Lucite Studs

Dizzy Viper Snakeskin Box Clutch with Black Lucite Studs


Mama's Boy: Joey Campanaro

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They say you are your own worst critic, and second in line is Mother Dearest. It’s all out of love, of course, but moms give it to you straight—with that uncanny way of dredging out every last, embarrassing "remember when" at the dinner table. So in honor of May 11, we’re FEATURING four of New York’s finest culinary personalities and the apples of their eyes. Next in our series: Joey Campanaro and his mother, Patricia.

Joey is the owner and chef of The Little Owl, or, as anyone who has ever stumbled upon the corner of Bedford and Grove will attest, the most charming little restaurant that could. The blink-and-you’ll-miss-it, 30-seat West Village gem may seem unassuming, but menu classics like gravy meatball sliders, a crispy chicken, and that sexy, juicy pork chop are anything but. In fact, in the past eight years, those meatball sliders have become so popular that Joey started a catering business just to keep up with the demand. Has he always dished out the crowd-pleasers? His mom says otherwise…


JEANINE CELESTE PANG: How was Joey as a little kid? Was he mischievous?

PATRICIA CAMPANARO: Mischievous? No, he was very people-oriented. We used to say he was going to be a politician when he grew up; he got along with everyone.

What is the worst thing he’s ever done?
JOEY CAMPANARO: The Raisinets…
PC: I can’t tell this story. Well, I can tell it, but I don’t think you’ll want to run it. He was very little. I was lying on the floor watching TV—and this was before Pampers had elastics around the legs—and sometimes with children, their bowels end up looking like Raisinets. So he said, “Open your mouth, Mom.” So I opened my mouth, and he dropped one in.

No.
PC: YES.

And what about when he was older? When did he start poking around in the kitchen?
PC: He developed an interest in preparing food a little later—maybe in high school. I worked at the high school that he attended and he would often get home before me. And on Fridays, he would have the pizza dough made.

Joey, has your mom influenced your cooking?
JC: Certainly. My food is seasonal Mediterranean, but it’s heavy-handed on the Italian side. I’d say Little Owl is the first non-Italian-American restaurant that served Italian food, so it’s the underpromise/overdeliver, very ambiguous name, but when you walk in, you can get some fresh pasta. Some of the pastas we used to make together were cavatelli and tagliatelle, but we didn’t call them that—we called them “homemades.”

Homemades?
PC: Homemades—they were homemade noodles.
JC: You’d see a broomstick on two chairs in the dining room with pasta drying on it.
PC: And ravioli—
JC: And ravioli all the time.

Patricia, what do you think of your son’s pasta? Is it better than yours?
PC: I think it’s great, but it’s different.
JC: The ziti recipe I’m giving you is one of my mom’s favorites. She fed six people in a row home in Philly and everyone worked, so she would make really quick meals, like even before all the Rachael Ray-type stuff. She would cook meals for six people in 15, 20 minutes—like that. [Snaps] And s

Mika Rottenberg's Planetary Game Of Bingo

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Artist Mika Rottenberg’s films are absurd, slightly grotesque, and above all, completely mesmerizing. In them, she creates complex fictions about how everyday objects are produced (think maraschino cherries made from pounded down red acrylic nails, or tissue papers moistened by the sweat of a body builder). In this alternate industrial reality, objects are manufactured via preposterous contraptions and gadgets with enough chutes, tunnels, and zip-lines to befit a Wile E. Coyote cartoon. Unsurprisingly, the people who work in these twisted factories are simultaneously sensuous and stomach-turning—obese and extraordinarily tall bodies work in claustrophobic spaces where bare bottoms and tongues protrude from small openings.

Rottenberg’s newest exhibition, Bowls Balls Souls Holes, opening at Andrea Rosen Gallery today, is a hypnotic story about the cosmic phenomena behind global warming, told through bizarre characters in a Harlem bingo hall. The players in the film (including GARRY STRETCH, who holds the Guinness World Record for having the stretchiest skin) seemingly embody the clash between the opposing forces dictating the earth's climate. Inside the gallery, the film is screened in a small theater situated among an installation replicating sets and props from the movie, such as water dripping from a radiator into a frying pan and a revolving door at the entrance.

We sat down with Rottenberg last week as she put the final touches on the installation.

SHANNAN ELINOR SMITH: Can you tell me about your fascination with infomercials?
MIKA ROTTENBERG: I like how they present a solution to things that are not necessarily a problem and make this whole narrative around this one little object, so it’s sort of like art. I’m fascinated by the level of inventions that come out of the same kind of information, repeated over and over. There is something kind of poetic about that. And they are really beautifully made, shot very cleanly.

Can you tell me about the people you use in your videos? How do you find them?

When I started, I would cast them mostly from [the Internet]. I really wanted to work with people who already advertised themselves for hire. Basically, they would advertise one aspect of their body, sometimes even a handicap that they made into a money-making job. So I was interested in that, and how it is degrading and empowering at the same time. That’s how I would cast people in my earlier work. Now, it is a little more open. I never work with actors; I like to use people for what they are. It’s more like the piece fits them, not they fit the piece. The Guinness Book of World Records is also a great place to cast from. So in the video for Bowls Balls Souls Holes, Gary, the one who puts the clothespins on his face, is a Guinness-holder, and the other people in the video actually work [at] or go to the bingo.

Many of your videos take place in factories, for instance Squeeze and Tropical Breeze. Why are you fascinated with this setting?
It is about production. We are all so occupied by production. It is also a metaphor for the studio. I guess it is a metaphor for something bigger as well and not necessarily about facto

Editorial: CRASH Into Opening Ceremony Spring/Summer 2014

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Although OC's Spring/Summer 2014 collection was inspired in part by the prevalent street racing scene in California suburbs, our new editorial uses a different meaning of the word crash. Flip through the scenes of dreamers dozing off in this season's hottest pieces after a long, fast-paced day.

View the CRASH editorial here | Shop Opening Ceremony Men's and Women's
 

Super Nova: Perfume For The Ages

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If you walk through the hallway to Julia Zangrilli's space in Williamsburg, you're immediately hit by the smell of jasmine. Jasmine is my favorite scent, so I was at home in her studio, a small but cozy environment for the very intimate, customized scents that Julia makes for her clients under the label NOVA.

Opening Ceremony first became hooked on NOVA via the perfumer's launch of Chakra, a musky yet floral scent that dances between masculine and feminine. But, the custom side of her business is what she's known for. Read on to find out more about NOVA's creator and her sense of scents.

Shop all NOVA here

DANA MELANZ: Let's start with the story behind the OC-exclusive kits.
JULIA ZANGRILLI: I was kind of talking shop with OC's Carol Song and Clara Cornet, and we wanted to do a handful of different sets to tie back to the custom aspect of the business. So, we tried to figure out the best way to introduce custom scents in a retail setting and landed on four kits with four scents each.

What are the different scents inspired by?
They're meant to represent different decades. There's the '60s, which is kind of like tiki surf. The '70s was based on photos of Woodstock, and just rock musicians from the period. (I wanted to make it modern and wearable, so it has lots of different, great wood notes.) Then the '80s is like pop—it came together from photos of Kelly LeBrock and other random '80s babes, and magenta prints and vibes. The '90s is very Calvin Klein ads: black and white, super sharp, and kind of unisex. 

And the idea is to have four scents that you can mix and match?
They kind of function as single notes even though each spray has several ingredients in it. They’re fragrances in themselves and you can absolutely wear each one alone. Each set has two top notes and two base notes, so you can layer. 

How do you create your custom scents with a client?
Basically, through the process of making the fragrances, you end up learning about certain materials, so I introduce the customer to the different olfactory families. It's a quick rundown of the materials you're using in perfumery. We go through the scents and they choose what they like, and then I create a few different samples which they can then choose their final scent from.

How did you get your start in perfume?

I was really just looking for a hobby. When I started, I took a class with MCMC Fragrances. Then later, I went to Grasse and studied there. It was really a raw materials course; it was intensive and it was only a few weeks. I didn’t go and do formal laboratory training, but I did get a certification in raw materials. I went to see different rose fields and learned about distillation processes. It was a really amazing experience. But, I learned shortly that I was going to have to teach myself the creation aspect. There are a lot of places to learn about materials, but creation training is scarce.

What were you doing before then?
I was acting. Actually, I'm trying to get back into theater—not acting itself, but trying to get back into working in that area through scent. I want to develop some sensory exercises for actors using scent memory.

I've never thought of something like that. So, a method actor would wear a specific fragrance for their character?
I think a lot of actors do that, actually. There are different schools and training. Fragrances are the strongest tie to memory for humans. It’s a fact that they’re in the same lobe of the brain and it’s a really str

Group Show: Scentsational

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First impressions count. But even more than your outfit or your wit, those you meet will never forget your scent––if it's a good one. These OC-approved fragrances come just in time for summer.
 
 

Gia Coppola Talks Palo Alto (And Why She Never Watched The Godfather)

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Her name might ring a bell. The "Coppola" bit begets an illustrious line of silver-screen genealogy: her grandfather, Francis Ford Coppola; her aunt, Sofia Coppola; her uncle, Roman Coppola. A future in film would seem predestined, but in fact, 27-year-old Gia saw her family dynasty as a turn-off and largely shied away from the spotlight, opting to pursue an interest in photography and dabbling in understated fashion shorts (including this one for Opening Ceremony).

It wasn't until a chance meeting with James Franco that the Napa Valley and LA-raised ingénue decided to make her directorial debut. In theaters this Friday, Palo Alto is a light, bright indie based on Franco's book of short stories about disaffected, suburban youth, with leads played by Emma Roberts, Nathalie Love, and Jack Kilmer (Val Kilmer’s son). On a recent afternoon, OC sat down with the (new) New Yorker and talked about being a high-school misfit, what she learned from “Grandpa,” and why she waited to watch The Godfather.


JEANINE CELESTE PANG: Rumor has it that you met James Franco at a Hollywood party five years ago, and then connected over a shared interest in photographs.
GIA COPPOLA: Yeah, we met really randomly. I saw him at a deli and he saw me. And later that night, we ran into each other again. I was kind of talking about photography; I had just graduated and was working with [the photographer] Stephen Shore. We stayed in touch and I sent him all my photographs. And we wanted to work together in some way, and he had this idea of making his book, Palo Alto, into a feature film. I think at that time I had just done the Opening Ceremony video with Jason [Schwartzman] and Kirsten [Dunst]. I was interested in film, but I didn’t think about making a feature-length film.

Was the idea of taking on a feature daunting to you?
For sure; I was really intimidated by that idea. But, James felt it was right and he believed I could do it. So, he kind of took me through it, step by step, so it wasn’t so intimidating. He said, “Pick the stories you like and make these separate screenplays.” I did that and after having done that, he said, “Okay, now take one of these stories and make a short film with your friends.” And after that, I had all these separate screenplays and I could combine them and combine characters, and make a more ensemble piece, and make the movie in a way that I would make a short film—with the same crew that worked on that Opening Ceremony short, actually, but just with longer days.

I remember James’ character when he’s talking to April, played by Emma Roberts. He said, “History is just explaining how things happen. There’s always a reason why we do things.” Is that something you wrote into the screenplay?
Most of the dialogue is from him, but I think that was mine.

What about the cigarette ritual: taking the last cigarette in the box and making a wish on it?
The first time I wrote the script, that scene wasn’t in there. I had glossed over it the first time and I didn’t realize what that meant. And then I was like, “Oh, that’s so amazing and that’s cool,” so then we put it in. I never knew about it; some people say it’s a very American thing. I guess I just missed out on it.

Did you like high school?
I had a tough time in high school. I went to a weird all-girls school that wasn’t right for me. But, I think any place I

Sin City: GIZA x NaNa-NaNa SS14

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GIZA, the Japanese brand known for its funky, hip, yet chic interpretation of the modern wardrobe, hits Opening Ceremony—bringing with it a provocative twist.

The label's founder, Mademoiselle Yulia, the singer-slash-designer-slash-DJ is both the mastermind and model behind her latest venture: a collaboration with fellow Japanese accessories company NaNa-NaNa for a line inspired by Roman Catholicism (hence the crosses and rosaries), wildlife, and dark fantasy. This collection of rings, bracelets, and earrings studded with beads and charms of everything from parrots and mermaids, to whimsical influences such as life and death or even burning hearts give breath to new-aged personal expression in the most sensous way.

Shop all GIZA x NaNa-NaNa here

Photos by Wataru Fukaya, courtesy of GIZA x NaNa-NaNa


burning heart ring in multi/gold

arrow shot heart ring in multi/gold

arrow shot heart ring in gold

thorny heart ring in silver

mermaid ring in multi/gold

cross ring in silver

skull ring in multi/gold

brave heart earrings in multi/gold

cross earrings in gold

cross earrings in silver

skull earrings in silver

burning heart earrings in gold

parrot earrings in multi/gold

Casper Kang Talks Art, Emojis, and Korean Heritage

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CASPER KANG is one of the most talented emerging artists in Korea, collaborating with everyone from hip-hop artists Dynamic Duo to Binggrae banana milk, the beloved Korean beverage. Naturally, we recently nabbed Casper to create the ARTWORK for our Mother's Day gift guide. The geometric motif––filled with everything from interlocking hands to roses of sharon––perfectly reflects Casper's unique style. The Canadian-Korean architect-turned-artist is now based in Seoul, and the majority of his works reflect his thoughts and surroundings––you'll often find Korean cultural references in his art. We chatted with Casper about his process and influences.

JOYCE LEE: The original artwork you created for our gift guide is titled Mother. Can you explain how that came about? 
CASPER KANG: The original artwork is basically a "sketch" of a painting I am currently working on called Mother World III. I'm usually not sure about what I'm trying to express in my work until quite a while after I've completed it, but I think it's about the internal dichotomies of the mother figure, from different perspectives, whether it be the perspective of the mother, the child, the father, or the world, and trying to express that as a single figure. For example, the mother as the moon and the earth, or the protector and punisher, a provider, a lover, a fortress, a vessel, a nurturer, a flower, an authority, warm and cold, enemy and friend, night and day, fortune and disaster, autumn, winter, summer, spring, black and white, red and blue, and so on and so forth. 

How much does your mother influence your work or you as an artist? 

Since my mother raised me and influenced me in many ways I probably don't even realize, I'm sure she has affected my work somehow. But, I don't think I can really pinpoint that yet. 

You were always an obedient son. Does this type of discipline constrain you from challenging yourself and pushing boundaries in your art? 
In some ways I am constrained, but I think that helps define my artwork. If you look at my work, you can see that it's visually complicated and busy—there is a lot going on. But, I've realized that my process is in a way quite reductive in that I am spending more time and effort taking things out of my artwork and reducing the different number of forms or colors, instead of adding more. It's definitely not a minimal approach. In fact, I think my work could be classified as "maximalism." But, somehow, my work is also "reductive" and I think that comes from my childhood, which was very restrained and full of rules and boundaries. In that way, I think I kind of set certain rules and limits when approaching my artwork as well. 

If you could draw a perfect mother for an emoji, what would it be? 
The mother of all emojis. 

What's the best mother's day gift you've ever given to your mother? 
This question made me realize that I really need to step up my son game, because I can't remember a specific gift I gave my mother for Mother's Day. I'm sure I have given her Mother's Day gifts but I can't remember what those things were. That's pretty bad. And Mother's Day is this Sunday! 

You wrote a beautiful yet tragic story called "Self Dynasty," about a love affair between a general and a princess that ends in death. What inspired you to create this story and the paintings based on it?
I actually

What Is Post-Internet Art Anyway?

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Remember the bulky black cell phones high schoolers used to tote around in '90s cinema staples like Clueless? I can still remember begging my parents for my very own and being “brutally rebuffed,” to quote Ms. Horowitz. The truth is, if you’re reading this post, you’re most likely a member of the last generation that will remember a world when you still had to beg for a cellphone––or when learning to ride a bike was something you did before learning to USE A computer.

This year marks the twenty-fifth anniversary of the World Wide Web. But whatever mixed feelings you harbor about the technology takeover, there’s no denying it's revolutionized the art world. Writer and critic Orit Gat’s upcoming panel at Frieze New York, “The World Wide Web at 25: Terms and Conditions” plans to celebrate this monumental anniversary and address the resulting developments in contemporary art, specifically the birth of “net-art” and “post-Internet art,” two movements that have exploited the Internet to develop a new and exciting visual vocabulary. I caught up with Orit before her talk on Sunday to hear her opinions on how the Internet is changing the art market, the democratization of the art world (or the lack thereof), and the future of Frieze.

Visit Frieze New York to see "The World Wide Web at 25: Terms and Conditions" on Sunday May 11 at noon


CLARKE RUDICK: Can you define “net art” versus "post-Internet art?"
ORIT GAT: It's a little hard to describe post-Internet. That is a term a lot of people are grappling with and some of our panel may revolve around that. In general, net art came first. It started in the '90s with artists like JODI, for example. While there are still a lot of artists who refer to their work as net art, I would classify post-internet as a different approach to the Internet. While net art (especially at first) was very tech-oriented and involved a lot of coding, post-Internet work reacts to the Internet as a state in which we're all implicated. So there's a generational difference (even though very flexible) but also a difference in attitude, one that I personally think is rooted in a certain disappointment or disenchantment with the structure of a growingly corporatized Internet. And then you can name drop people like Brad Troemel and The Jogging. There’s a very “scenester-y” feel to post-Internet art. 

How do you think the Internet has changed the art market?
There’s the way that the Internet has “flattened” all art: when you work in galleries, you see work being sold by JPEG. A collector… might never see the work [in person]. Paddle 8, Artsy, and Artspace have changed the way we think about how to sell. I wonder how that has changed the work itself…

Do you think artists are making work to cater to an online format?
Yes. That is a lot of the criticism that happens around post-Internet work. I think when post-Internet work is great, it really tells you about the cond

Most Wanted: Kenzo Fish Pants

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"Most Wanted" presents our favorite and most coveted items available at OC.

One fish, two fish, red fish, Kenzo fish. Grab your snorkel and dive underwater with our favorite color-splashed Twill 5-Pocket fish pants from the new Spring/Summer 2014 collection. What better item to wear while eating lobster rolls and staring out over the big blue ocean this summer?
 
Shop all Kenzo Mens and Womens
 

Maggie Lee Talks Mommy

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At the premiere of her film Mommy at Anthology Film Archives this past Sunday, artist Maggie Lee wore a plastic flash camera around her neck. In a swift, single-handed gesture, she’d reach for it and snap a shot, candidly capturing the scene. Mommy is half-made of footage like this. The 45-minute documentary tells of the life and sudden death of Lee’s mother, a first-generation Taiwanese American living in New Jersey who married a magician, opened a restaurant, and had two daughters, whom she largely raised by herself after her husband performed an illusionless disappearing act. Maggie narrates her mother’s life story, visualizing it in found footage—old photographs, static-strung VHS recordings, and newspaper clippings—and her own diaristic archive (now 26, Maggie’s been selfie-ing since she was a tween).

Part vlog, Vine, music video, and newsreel, Mommy shifts tones with hyperlink logic. A montage of Maggie’s partying days transitions to a tour of her empty, for-sale family home, and old voicemails are layered over low-res cellphone video of hands in space. The film’s Internet look was aided by a new “collage the Internet” program called to.be. The film’s production and distribution is also very new media: made with Beta Pictures, Mommy will be released in full via YouTube on May 11, one week after the live premiere at Anthology. In anticipation of that release, OC presents an exclusive clip from the film and an interview with its maker, Maggie Lee.



FIONA DUNCAN: When did you start working on this film and how long did it take? 
MAGGIE LEE: My mother passed away in May 2012 shortly after her sixty-sixth birthday and right after she received her first retirement check. I had to move back home immediately and was constantly documenting and writing in my diary. It took about two years to sift through a lifetime's worth of information with a fine comb.

How did the film and/or you evolve through its making?
My mother was always making me so angry and constantly stressing me out. When I moved to New York City, I made it a point to be independent and have little contact with her. It was only after I started working on the film that I realized she was trying to protect me so I wouldn't have to struggle as much as she did.

I went through some major life changes in the aftermath of her death and the process of making this movie, like learning not to be so angsty—there’s no time for that. Now, I try to be a smiley face, enjoy life, surround myself with what I love, and make beautiful things.

There's a part in the film, after the death of your mother, where you speak of reuniting with her in your dreams. It reminded me of something I once heard Bruce Sterling say about how, as he's gotten older and seen loved ones die, his dreams have come to be almost exclusively populated with the dead. He mused that the dream world may be an afterlife. What do you think about this?
I definitely think of time with my mother in dreams as a continuation of her afterlife. Prior to her passing, she was creating a lot of drawings of a smiley face angel looking through the window of a smiley face person going to the bathroom. The drawings said, "An angel is always watching you, even in the strongest places." She

Hook, Line, And Sweatshirts: Kenzo Spring/Summer 2014

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Despite constantly traversing the Atlantic Ocean between Paris and New York, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s hearts have always stayed loyal to the Pacific. While the duo's previous Kenzo seasons have reinvented label founder Kenzo Takada’s “Jungle Jap” aesthetic—bringing together East Asian and safari vibes through bold prints, colors, and volume—for Spring/Summer 2014, the pair injected the Parisian ready-to-wear empire with some cool California ease. Fluid and deconstructed, Carol and Humberto’s salute to sun and surf is apparent in both the collection’s form and content: think unfinished hems, graphic strokes, and hand-scribbled text. In other words, silhouettes you'll want to live in. 

Yet the collection’s tidal theme extends beyond its rich blue hues and incorporation of neoprene—the designs also serve to highlight a global problem: the dangers of overfishing and marine pollution. The fish capsule collection, with its "splashy" prints, speaks to Kenzo’s partnership with the Blue Marine Foundation (BLUE), a conservation charity calling for the active protection of the world’s oceans. 

Shop all Kenzo Women's and Men's

Big Fish Printed T-Shirt in white

Fish Applique Technical Jacquard Sweater 

NO FISH EMBROIDERED MOLLETON SWEATSHIRT
 
BIG FISH PRINTED T-SHIRT in black

FISH PRINTED SHORT-SLEEVE SHIRT in black

FISH PRINTED SHORT-SLEEVE SHIRT in blue

No Fish No Nothing Sleeveless Muscle Tee

Fish Tech Jacquard Sleeveless Dress 

Fish Detailed Black Crepe Dress in b

Mama's Boy: Pichet Ong

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They say you are your own worst critic, and second in line is Mother Dearest. It’s all out of love, of course, but moms give it to you straight—with that uncanny way of dredging out every last, embarrassing "remember when" at the dinner table. In honor of May 11, we’re featuring four of New York’s finest culinary personalities and the apples of their eyes. To end our series on a sweet note: Pichet Ong and his mother, Ruby.

By no small exaggeration, PicheT ONG is one of the most celebrated pastry chefs in the US. Now a television food personality and international restaurant consultant, the Singapore-and-Thailand raised chef is credited with sparking the sweet-and-savory dessert trend (bacon-maple cupcakes, anyone?). His concoctions have graced the lips of everyone from Oprah to Karlie Kloss, and call up any number of culinary greats, from Alice Waters (Pichet received training at Chez Panisse) to Jean-Georges Vongerichten (his work at Spice Market and 66 earned him multiple James Beard nods), and they’ll have some great Pichet story to regale. Fun fact: In close circles, he’s also known as the “original hipster chef” and something of a fashion plate, wearing Burkman Brothers and Thom Browne well before the compulsory tattoo sleeve became a trend. And of course, he also happens to be a mama’s boy.


JEANINE CELESTE PANG: What is one of the first things you remember about Pichet?
RUBY WONG: When he was born, I remember his father saying, “Wow. He has blue eyes!" Pichet was born with open, blue eyes. And he was big—about nine pounds.

And what about his sweets? What is your favorite thing your son makes?
RW: His pastries, I guess. [Laughs] He used to make a lot of ice cream and sherbets when we were living in Thailand. It worked well in the heat, and the fruit in Thailand was so fresh and delicious. He was only 15, but he would be making fresh sherbet with the durian and mangosteen. But, nobody knew that he would become a chef; we didn’t expect that.

Pichet, what is the first thing you remember cooking with your mother?
PICHET ONG: A soy-braised pork, which is typical of homestyle cooking for all regions of China. My mom's version tends to have plenty of cinnamon, star anise, honey, wine, ginger, and scallion. We still continue to make those together, but with a leaner cutlet (like kurobuta loin). We’re watching our weight, these days!

You two live together in Chelsea. How often do you sit down and cook, or have a meal together?
RW: Once a week, maybe. We’ll go out to eat. I like the restaurant Lincoln—we’ll order the branzino and pasta there (even though I’m not supposed to be eating the pasta now!).

What is one great lesson that your mom has taught you?
PO: She’s taught me a lot, but definitely the idea of not dwelling on the past—you can always start over in life, but it takes time. My mom’s life is all about starting over; she’s gone through a lot of heartbreak and tragedy, but still keeps her fighting spirit intact.

What do you think is the best thing about your son?
RW: He’s compassionate. He likes to help people; I remember even when he was in elementary school, he would be helping other classmates after school with their homework a

Body Architecture: In The Studio with Chromat

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Finding the studio for Brooklyn-based label Chromat inside the labyrinth that is the Brooklyn Navy Yard is no easy feat. On a recent weekday, I wandered through warehouses in the gargantuan industrial complex until I finally stumbled upon designer Becca McCharen's world, a quaint studio where platform heels and body cages line the walls. That day, her team was fastidiously working on the final touches for pieces that would soon be packed up and sent to Opening Ceremony. Chromat, which has been operating since 2010, has lately received some much-deserved buzz. Under the influence of architecture and science, Chromat marries nineteenth-century silhouettes with unconventional materials to create provocative designs. Curious to find out more, I spoke with Becca about everything from working construction, to love affairs with robots, and witches in Bushwick. 

Shop all Chromat HERE


SHANNAN ELINOR SMITH: 
Can you tell me about your background?
BECCA MCCHAREN: I studied architecture at the University of Virginia. After graduation, I worked for several architecture firms and even worked [in] construction one summer, pouring concrete. Then I ended up doing urban development. During that job I started experimenting. I would come home and sew some stuff. I learned how to sew in college; I was a costume designer for the theater department [which is] where I learned how to do Victorian undergarments and period piece construction. Looking back on some of the early work I did for Chromat back in 2008, it is a little embarrassing, but I was living in Lynchburg, Virginia at the time and there wasn't a good fabric store. I would just go to Goodwill and rip up leather trench coats. At the time I had a friend in New York that had a pop-up shop (which is now International Playground) and she liked my pieces, so she started ordering them. I still had my day job in urban development, so I would come home at night and make orders, then send them to New York. It just ended up snowballing from there and I decided I’d just move to New York and meet all the weirdoes who were ordering my stuff.

How did your background in architecture inform your work for Chromat?
So, it makes sense now because architecture and Victorian undergarments are kind of all that we do with Chromat. We are interested in analyzing all the interior seams of a garment and extruding that to the exterior—making scaffolding for the body. We are also really interested in looking at the body as a building site.

Can you tell me about some of these materials you use?
We always want to learn about and experiment with different materials. For Fall/Winter 2014, we did velvets and chrome-plated metals. It was also our first big LED season, working with electronic light transmitters and programming systems that can read the body. Spring/Summer 2014 was our sport collection. We used neoprene, and we also started doing some steel cage pieces. The season before that was vinyls and the season before that was leathers. I’m not sure yet what next season is going to be, but I’m excited to figure it out.

What is the purpose of the LED lights on the Fall/Winter 2014 collection pieces? Are they strictly decorative?
Yes. They respond to movement, activated by accelerometers. This collection is our most feminine and romantic; it’s kind of not my vibe. But, I was thinking about a love story between a human and a robot, a lot

Get An Earful At Frieze

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A lot of the hype around Frieze New York is focused on art that is visual or participatory in nature: the fair packs 192 galleries, a septet of site-specific works (including a functional hotel and spartan rowboat tour around Randall’s Island), and an eyebrow-raising roster of talks. But last night, inside the VIP BMWs that gave guests a lift to the fair, Frieze Sounds 2014 had its premiere—and the audio works of three female artists had their moment to shine.

Curated for the third year in a row by Cecilia Alemani, who is the curator and director of High Line Art and also organizes Frieze Projects, Frieze Sounds presents a distinctively intimate viewing experience, taken in with the ears only. Each work will be available at listening stations throughout Frieze and streamed online. For her part, British artist Cally Spooner overlaid a recording of Lance Armstrong and his masseuse with an off-kilter jazz score that rises to echo the athlete’s progressively complex deceit. Basel-based artist Hannah Weinberger layers the frequency of her unborn child’s heartbeat with noises from natural and synthetic environments. Most intriguing of all is a piece called Constant State of Grace by Israeli-born, New York-based artist Keren Cytter, which claims to send listeners into a state of hypnotized oblivion.

“It only takes four minutes for someone to go into a trance,” Cytter explains. “After that, your brain starts to imitate the sound waves. Sort of like when you [zone out] waiting at a bus stop.” To produce the hypnotic effect, her piece consists of a male and female voice simultaneously reciting a text she wrote, producing the mind-numbing effect of a religious chant. The voices are overlaid with binaural beats—subtle, low-frequency pulsations normally used in meditation. Together, the components are meant to make the listener feel relaxed, vulnerable, spiritual, and eventually, as if she’s reached a “constant state of grace,” where the work gets its name.

“I’ve always been interested in hypnosis,” Cytter says matter-of-factly of her first work of exclusively audio-based art. She also wanted to give Frieze patrons something that wasn’t material, and that would maybe actually lead to some form of enlightenment (even if it happens in the backseat of a luxury sedan). For her, the process of creating it wasn’t far from her usual work as a playwright, film director, and poet: “I wrote and recorded the text, so it’s not that different except there isn’t an image.”

Cytter’s work distinguishes itself by offering art fair attendees, and anyone with an Internet connection, a moment of sweet relief from the cacophony of life. Even if you, like everyone else, are still trying to wrap your head around what sound art is, don’t fret. Just listen.

See more of Opening Ceremony's coverage of Frieze New York 

The Look: Tim Barber

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In THE LOOK, OC friends drop by to try on our favorite new arrivals and tell us about their wardrobe preferences past and present.

Last week, Tim Barber's Relations opened at Capricious 88 and OC stopped by to talk to the ever-busy artist. The show is a selection of images as well as sculptures (a first for Barber) from the past three years, centered around the theme of relationships. Barber is well-known in the world of photography. He's not only known as an artist, shooting for numerous publications, exhibitions, and books, but has made a significant impression as a curator as well. After serving as photo editor for Vice, Barber started TinyVices, a website devoted to photography and art which eventually drew him from cyber spaces to gallery spaces, curating shows around the globe. Relations, however, seems to be a space for Barber to slow down and breathe. The images are tender, introspective, and intimate. He even felt so comfortable as to show his first sculptural work—casts of his hands that function as flower vases. The exhibit is not something to be missed; it's generous in sincerity and abundant in artful content.
 

Name: Tim Barber
Hometown: Vancouver, BC; Amherst, MA; NYC, NY
What do you do? Photographer and organizer
What look were you into in high school? Alternateen
Most regrettable fashion moment? No regrets, but I wore some super baggy pants in the '90s.
Your three wardrobe essentials? Sneaks, jeans, hoodie
Most prized piece in your wardrobe? A tailored suit from Freemans Sporting Club
When did you start taking photos? When I was 14
Tell us about your current exhibition at Capricious. It’s called Relations. Some photos from the last three years dealing with various kinds of relationships, and two sculptures. First time I’ve showed sculpture.
Art-wise, what has been a highlight for you this year? I don’t smoke weed very often, but the other day I smoked some weed by myself and walked around the city for a while, not taking photos or anything, just looking at stuff. It was one of the first nice spring days out and everything was very vivid. I felt hyper-aware of the magic synchronicity of chaos and the universal significance of tiny details. Sometimes all it takes is a slightly altered perspective and/or a shift in the environment to shake off the brain-webs and rearrange priorities. That's what good art does for me, too, when the timing is right. It was emotional and amazing.
Can you tell us about TimE & SpaceTime & Space is the new and improved tinyvices.com, a website for photography and art that I created in 2005. Time & Space is different from tinyvices in that all the artists involved have access to edit their own content, so it’s less of a personal curatorial/editorial project, and more of a creative community platform. If that’s unclear, just go check it out; it will make sense I hope.
How did you get involved in curating? I got interested in organizing shows when

BYOB: It's A Slumber Party At Frieze

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“It’s hot or cold no matter where you are in this fair,” moaned one Frieze Art Fair attendee yesterday afternoon over a glass of $5 wine. His complaints might have fallen on deaf ears (and his wine might have been twice the price) had he not been seated at the worn wooden bar inside of the lobby at Al’s Grand Hotel, just across from Kasmin Gallery's booth. Behind the bar, a smartly dressed and uncharacteristically attentive barkeep named Erin Mortensen was briefing customers about just what this unconventional installation was: a reincarnation of artist Allen Ruppersberg’s Hollywood pop-up hotel from 1971. Perhaps the reduced alcohol prices were an additional effort to truly embody the days of disco.

After being approached by Cecilia Alemani from the Frieze Projects series to recreate his iconic hotel cum performance art house, Ruppersberg asked friend and collaborator Lauren Mackler from Public Fiction Gallery to help oversee the installation. As Mackler told us, the pair began with a “series of conceptual conversations” and subsequently worked together to source fake ‘70s-style furniture and fixtures to adorn the three rooms: a lobby complete with concierge, the aforementioned bar, and a small seating area, and two fully inhabitable rooms titled “The Jesus Room” and “The Bridal Suite” after the two most expensive of the seven rooms in the original hotel.

Mortensen confirmed that the lobby has been abuzz since the official opening, with guests enjoying drinks, chatting on the green velvet sofa, perusing the ‘70s-era photography postcards, and inspecting the two rooms. In the case of “The Jesus Room,” that meant navigating around a gigantic wooden cross splayed across the floor as if it had been dropped through the ceiling by a freight plane. “The Bridal Suite,” meanwhile, featured a replica wedding cake on top of the working vintage TV and a blanket of flowers covering the double bed. Some guests who managed to snag one of the hard-to-come-by rooms were bringing their own entertainment for their big night at Frieze. Mortensen recalled with a laugh: “We have two European women staying with us, and they said to me, ‘We can get ice at night, right? We are bringing a bottle of vodka with us.’”

Visit Al's Grand Hotel at Frieze New York through May 12 

See more of Opening Ceremony's coverage of Frieze New York HERE

The lobby of Al's Grand Hotel. Photos by Clarke Rudick

The Bridal Suite

Week in Haiku: May 5

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A week in review for the well-dressed––and the well-versed! 

The earth turns, snow melts 
in the mountains, but MOM'S fried
chicken stays the same. 

Cinco De Mayo–– 
TEQUILA shot anyone? 
The ground is moving.

Essence of EIGHTIES
bright flash from the camera–– 
Warhol framed in time. 

High school is high school–– 
Palo Alto or LA 
Coppola’s WISE WORDS

A mother is a
kaleidoscope of figures:
earth, fortress, flower.

Think of your body 
as a site. And CLOTHES as a 
building you can wear. 

Visionaire x Gap: An Interview With Cecilia Dean

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With her chiseled features and long black hair pulled into a ponytail, Cecilia Dean looked simultaneously high-fashion and farm-ready when we met her at her office in Soho today to talk about her new collection of VISIONAIRE X GAP T-SHIRTS. These limited-edition shirts feature artwork by artists including Richard Phillips, Alex Katz, and Peter Lindbergh. And the thread and ink is UV-sensitive, so the images change color in the sunlight. In other words, they will make you believe in magic again.

If you thought that magazines could only publish on paper, think again. VISIONAIRE, founded in 1991 by Cecilia Dean, Stephen Gan, and James Kaliardos, has been known to sometimes publish issues in highly unconventional formats. One issue was rendered entirely on metal, while another was solar-themed and UV-sensitive (and served as inspiration for the T-shirts).

Cecilia herself is equal parts city and country. A fixture in the fashion world, she lives in Red Hook, bikes to work, and takes care of chickens and bees alongside her boyfriend David Selig, owner of the much-loved Rockaway Taco. In reference to one of the Visionaire T-shirts designed by MARIO SORRENTI with an image of an iceberg on it, Cecilia turns and says, “When you’re in sweltering NYC, you wish to be here. But also it makes you think about the state of our environment.” 

I chatted with Cecilia about her new shirt collection, check out our conversation below:

Shop all Visionaire x Gap HERE

AUSTEN ROSENFELD: Can you tell me about how you came up with idea to combine UV-sensitive ink and thread with clothing? Was it difficult to make on a technical level?
CECILIA DEAN: Well, when Gap asked us to do a T-shirt collection for them, we immediately thought of referencing issues of Visionaire and working with artists that have been published in Visionaire. Visionaire, so often, is about research and development, and we actually don’t do anything with the knowledge we’ve acquired except for the issue. So for the first five T-shirts we did with Gap, we were experimenting with metal foil on fabric. When they asked us to do the next set of T-shirts to come out in May, we immediately thought, "Oh, that would be the beginning of summer." We were so over winter at that point.

This winter in particular?
This has been a particularly long and arduous winter that I don’t feel like we have fully come out of yet. So when we were thinking about May, we thought, "Oh, it's going to be summer, the beginning of warmth and sunshine and going to Rockaway Taco.” So we immediately thought of our solar issue. We could hand over all that knowledge to do something that would have a larger audience and reach more people.

Eyes seem to be a theme on the shirts—was that intentional?
We didn’t plan or realize it but I guess it makes sense because we’re dealing so much with the visual— black and white turning to color, [and] sunshine.

Do you think there’s more room to explore fashion and technology? How do you see technology influ
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