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The New Classic: Loewe's Change-Up, Under J.W. Anderson

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Loewe, until now, has remained a quiet yet luxurious heritage brand. But since Jonathan Anderson took the helm as creative director this past September, the native Madrid brand, with headquarters on St.-Sulpice, in Paris, has come on strong in both design and pop culture. 

For his inaugural menswear debut, Anderson designed a collection that is informed by a strong connection to the Spanish brand’s 168-year-old history, and Anderson’s conceptual use of textures, cuts, and thoughtful design, seen in his own namesake label, J.W. Anderson. After becoming inspired by a beachside Vogue Italia shoot from July 1997, shot by legendary photographer Steven Meisel and informed by the work of the American painter Alex Katz, Anderson realized that he could create a collection with sensibilities reaching far beyond the boundaries of fashion—but still keeping ties to its local origins. “My association of Spain was Ibiza,” Anderson recently told The New York Times. “Very linen-y, very cotton-y.” Those sensory components eventually sparked inspiration for the entire collection, the linen-wrapped lookbooks, and even the latest Spring/Summer 2015 ad campaign. The latter, much to the delight of fashion circles, was shot by Meisel and featured an unsual integration of the lensman's original Vogue shoot. 

The result of Anderson’s musings: raw-edged, cardigan-like ponchos, fine-gauged knit sweaters, and attention-grabbing accessories. Take the Merino Wool Ski Knit Sweater, its mosaic-like, almost psychedelic paneling gives it sense of movement. Or the Fringed Cardigan, which could be game for a trek through the Spanish countryside. To play on the simpler side, and also Anderson's clever use of logo: the Anagram T-Shirt adorns Loewe's newly reconfigured insignia, all of which play tribute to Spain’s love of pitting the contemporary with the antique.

Elsewhere, the accessories suggest that no matter how elaborate or subtle the garment, they can provide an artistic, quirky upgrade worthy of praise. Don’t believe us? Just ask Pharrell Williams, who wore the Mecanno Pin and Double Pin on the cover of his latest single, “Gust of Wind.”


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