For all the talk about the wonders of a gluten-free diet, sometimes, all we're after is some fresh-out-of-the-oven carb—especially on Homemade Bread Day. In honor of normal eaters everywhere, Opening Ceremony tapped Gerardo Gonzalez and Nick Morgenstern, the boys of the LES luncheonette El Rey, to share their recipe for banana tahini bread.
It seems a bit disjointed to have two grown men run a low-key, vegetarian-heavy joint whose most popular items include a seasonal falafel with minted cauliflower and pickled cabbage, but then again, the clean-food lean has less to do with it being a food fad and more to do with like-minded backgrounds. "We both spend time in San Francisco; we both know Rainbow Foods," says the owner, Nick, who also runs the nearby ice cream parlor, Morgenstern's. "We're used to bulk buying ingredients. For instance, I grew up eating tahini on toast, instead of jam and peanut butter." Gerardo, who grew up in Baja and now heads the kitchen—chooses simple, straightforward ingredients. "When I first stated the menu, I was doing farm-to-table-ish, and then after a week, I was like 'fuck that.' But then I brought in a lot of things that are California-ish; things that take you to a different time zone or latitude."
El Rey, which also serves Kyoto-style iced coffee and Mexican mochas on tap, has a definite neighborhood vibe, which is interesting for a radius known more for its nightlife and transients. "I think it's kind of funny; people want to eat like this because they're nursing a major hangover," says Gerardo. "They need to take care of themselves so they can do yoga. The food makes you feel energized, and you feel like you can take on New York."
Hangover or otherwise, this bread—an umami twist on a classic—is delish.
See the how-to below.
Banana Tahini Bread
Yield: half loaf
2 eggs
1 tablespoon Vanilla extract
37 grams Tahini
113 grams oil
333 grams banana purée
300 grams dark brown sugar
210 grams flour (for gluten-free, substitute for buckwheat)
1 teaspoon Baking Powder
.5 teaspoon salt
.5 teaspoon baking soda
45 grams toasted white sesame
30 grams raw black sesame
Topping:
25 grams raw white sesame
10 grams raw black sesame
Step 1: Smash bananas! (Chef tip: This is a good recipe to get rid of brown, overripe bananas. You want them extra-sweet.) Preheat oven at 325 degrees.
Step 2: Whisk the oil, tahini, eggs, vanilla, and banana purée until smooth.
Step 3: Whisk in brown sugar until fully absorbed and no lumps.
Step 4: Sift dry ingredients into the liquid. (Add dry ingredients in 3 parts so it is easier to mix into wet without leaving clumps or overworking the flour.)
Step 5: Line a nonstick, greased pan with wax paper. Add batter.
Step 6: Coat top with the raw black sesame seeds and toasted white sesame seeds—these add an earthiness to the bread.
Step 7: Place in 325-degree oven and bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes, rotating once halfway through bake time.
Step 8: Test the bread for doneness with a toothpick. It is done when the toothpick comes out clean. (Each oven works differently, so it might take a little less or more time to finish.)
Step 9: Remove from oven and let cool on a rack for one hour. Once cooled, use the back side of a knife to slide along the edges of the bread. Pop out and enjoy!![]()
It seems a bit disjointed to have two grown men run a low-key, vegetarian-heavy joint whose most popular items include a seasonal falafel with minted cauliflower and pickled cabbage, but then again, the clean-food lean has less to do with it being a food fad and more to do with like-minded backgrounds. "We both spend time in San Francisco; we both know Rainbow Foods," says the owner, Nick, who also runs the nearby ice cream parlor, Morgenstern's. "We're used to bulk buying ingredients. For instance, I grew up eating tahini on toast, instead of jam and peanut butter." Gerardo, who grew up in Baja and now heads the kitchen—chooses simple, straightforward ingredients. "When I first stated the menu, I was doing farm-to-table-ish, and then after a week, I was like 'fuck that.' But then I brought in a lot of things that are California-ish; things that take you to a different time zone or latitude."
El Rey, which also serves Kyoto-style iced coffee and Mexican mochas on tap, has a definite neighborhood vibe, which is interesting for a radius known more for its nightlife and transients. "I think it's kind of funny; people want to eat like this because they're nursing a major hangover," says Gerardo. "They need to take care of themselves so they can do yoga. The food makes you feel energized, and you feel like you can take on New York."
Hangover or otherwise, this bread—an umami twist on a classic—is delish.
See the how-to below.
Banana Tahini Bread
Yield: half loaf
2 eggs
1 tablespoon Vanilla extract
37 grams Tahini
113 grams oil
333 grams banana purée
300 grams dark brown sugar
210 grams flour (for gluten-free, substitute for buckwheat)
1 teaspoon Baking Powder
.5 teaspoon salt
.5 teaspoon baking soda
45 grams toasted white sesame
30 grams raw black sesame
Topping:
25 grams raw white sesame
10 grams raw black sesame
Step 1: Smash bananas! (Chef tip: This is a good recipe to get rid of brown, overripe bananas. You want them extra-sweet.) Preheat oven at 325 degrees.
Step 2: Whisk the oil, tahini, eggs, vanilla, and banana purée until smooth.
Step 3: Whisk in brown sugar until fully absorbed and no lumps.
Step 4: Sift dry ingredients into the liquid. (Add dry ingredients in 3 parts so it is easier to mix into wet without leaving clumps or overworking the flour.)
Step 5: Line a nonstick, greased pan with wax paper. Add batter.
Step 6: Coat top with the raw black sesame seeds and toasted white sesame seeds—these add an earthiness to the bread.
Step 7: Place in 325-degree oven and bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes, rotating once halfway through bake time.
Step 8: Test the bread for doneness with a toothpick. It is done when the toothpick comes out clean. (Each oven works differently, so it might take a little less or more time to finish.)
Step 9: Remove from oven and let cool on a rack for one hour. Once cooled, use the back side of a knife to slide along the edges of the bread. Pop out and enjoy!
