It's all work and no play for Helen Lawrence, the 27-year-old "Northerner"-turned-East Londoner behind the eponymous clothing collection new and exclusive to OC. Or at least, that's what she claims. Since her school days at the famed Central Saint Martin, she has worked to establish herself as knitwear pro. Her pieces—a creative mix of fluffy knits and embroidered scribbles—are all handmade, after all.
On approaching Lawrence’s North London Studio, we're greeted by the continuous meows of a cat that cannot be located and a clothes line in the yard from which hangs an isolated unclaimed tee. These are easy-to-miss details, however, once your eyes meet the large, essential knitting machines, which consume the space. Other than these and and a shelving unit complete with eclectic-colored wools and cottons, the studio possessions are kept to a minimum. And, although Lawrence insists there is no time for anything but work, the BBQ and ping-pong table outside hint that there is more fun to be had than she lets on.
Shop all Helen Lawrence here
OWEN BLACKWOOD: What was the starting point for your Fall/Winter 2014 collection?
HELEN LAWRENCE: I’d always wanted to do a fluffy collection. I then found these beautiful images of these gypsy traveler kids from the '80s, around London fields, all dressed up by their parents. Then I found this image of a little girl in like a full fluffy outfit, something like what I wanted to already make. It was a progression from my previous work but more wearable, more commercial shapes amongst wobbly shapes.
Knitwear seems to be a focal area for you. What do you love about it?
So basically, from starting my BA at Chelsea College of Arts, we got to try out different things. I tried out the knitting machine and loved it! I love knitwear—you’ve always got to have a good jumper! I’m from up north; it’s always cold. Even in the summer, there’s always the want for a big, warm jumper to throw on.
Tell us more about your signature scribble, which can be seen across your Fall/Winter 2014 collection?
I’d been looking at '70s nail art and wanted to make a lace fabric based on that. I wanted to create an embroidered fabric that would hold its shape. I don’t want to say too much about how I do it, but I eventually came up with this idea after lots of development.
So like you already mentioned you're originally from "up north," Whitley Bay to be precise. Do you bring any inspiration from there to your collections?
It’s a really nice, little seaside town—I’m not really sure though. I don’t know if this sounds weird, but there is quite a lot of flesh, like a lot of people don’t wear very many clothes, even in the winter, so maybe that was the inspiration. Like a cropped jumper and knickers. [Laughs]
How would you describe the general vibe in the studio?
Work, work, work, because everything is done by hand, and everything is hand-knitted, and every stitch is altered by hand. We work out all the patterns and the pieces and hand-make the felt. Everything takes so long; it's fast-paced and very busy.
Do you have any essentials/must haves in the studio to get you through the day?
Knitting machines, coffee, and my AMAZING interns!
What's on your studio playlist at the moment?
Well Kate (who I share my studio with) is a bit of a genius DJ so she plays me lots of nice music. A lo
On approaching Lawrence’s North London Studio, we're greeted by the continuous meows of a cat that cannot be located and a clothes line in the yard from which hangs an isolated unclaimed tee. These are easy-to-miss details, however, once your eyes meet the large, essential knitting machines, which consume the space. Other than these and and a shelving unit complete with eclectic-colored wools and cottons, the studio possessions are kept to a minimum. And, although Lawrence insists there is no time for anything but work, the BBQ and ping-pong table outside hint that there is more fun to be had than she lets on.
Shop all Helen Lawrence here
OWEN BLACKWOOD: What was the starting point for your Fall/Winter 2014 collection?
HELEN LAWRENCE: I’d always wanted to do a fluffy collection. I then found these beautiful images of these gypsy traveler kids from the '80s, around London fields, all dressed up by their parents. Then I found this image of a little girl in like a full fluffy outfit, something like what I wanted to already make. It was a progression from my previous work but more wearable, more commercial shapes amongst wobbly shapes.
Knitwear seems to be a focal area for you. What do you love about it?
So basically, from starting my BA at Chelsea College of Arts, we got to try out different things. I tried out the knitting machine and loved it! I love knitwear—you’ve always got to have a good jumper! I’m from up north; it’s always cold. Even in the summer, there’s always the want for a big, warm jumper to throw on.
Tell us more about your signature scribble, which can be seen across your Fall/Winter 2014 collection?
I’d been looking at '70s nail art and wanted to make a lace fabric based on that. I wanted to create an embroidered fabric that would hold its shape. I don’t want to say too much about how I do it, but I eventually came up with this idea after lots of development.
So like you already mentioned you're originally from "up north," Whitley Bay to be precise. Do you bring any inspiration from there to your collections?
It’s a really nice, little seaside town—I’m not really sure though. I don’t know if this sounds weird, but there is quite a lot of flesh, like a lot of people don’t wear very many clothes, even in the winter, so maybe that was the inspiration. Like a cropped jumper and knickers. [Laughs]
How would you describe the general vibe in the studio?
Work, work, work, because everything is done by hand, and everything is hand-knitted, and every stitch is altered by hand. We work out all the patterns and the pieces and hand-make the felt. Everything takes so long; it's fast-paced and very busy.
Do you have any essentials/must haves in the studio to get you through the day?
Knitting machines, coffee, and my AMAZING interns!
What's on your studio playlist at the moment?
Well Kate (who I share my studio with) is a bit of a genius DJ so she plays me lots of nice music. A lo