Part molecular biologist, part culinary experimentalist, Anthony Martin is a Los Angeles phenomenon. His latest endeavor, PATAO (pah-tao), named after his family’s hometown in the Philippines, is a pop-up dinner experience that emphasizes his personal heritage and passion for helping bring Filipino food to the main stage of Los Angeles food culture.
Martin, a recent Ph.D in molecular biology and biochemistry, has spent years investigating the dynamics of human skeletal bone development. Sure, his unparalleled interest in the culinary arts might seem unexpected, but he views the kitchen as an extension of the lab—and, more importantly, as a platform to explain Filipino culture and the country's history. Dubbing his dinners "post-colonial Filipino dining events," he tells a story with each bite, with dishes partly inspired by Spanish (Paella), French (Sans Rival—a form of dacquoise), and Chinese (Siopao) culinary techniques. Of course, the evolution of Filipino cuisine wouldn't be complete without Martin's own American and contemporary influence.
Last Saturday, we were lucky enough to score a seat at PATAO's latest pop-up at THANK YOU FOR COMING in Atwater Village. The menu consisted of what Martin thought was "a reflection of tradition and authenticity," incorporating native ingredients and flavors. One of my favorites was the Kare-Kare, a braised oxtail stew prepared in a peanut “curry” sauce with vegetables. Though, after every plate was served at the table, an Instagram frenzy soon began. Not only did each plate satisfy everyone visually but, most importantly, it set the bar for every Filipino meal we would eat thereafter.
To top off the evening, we sat down with the culinary mastermind to talk all things PATAO.
MARK SALDANA: The food was so good! Thank you so much for having me. Were the recipes all from your grandmother?
ANTHONY MARTIN: You’re welcome anytime. The menu that I prepared was a compilation of courses that reflect what I perceive as traditional Filipino dishes. With that said, a lot of what I cooked was absolutely a nod to authentic recipes handed down by my grandmother and other members of the family. However, it was important for me to reinterpret and play with certain ingredients to recognize the modern appetite while honoring tradition to contribute to the evolution of Filipino cuisine.
Is there any Filipino dish that you would love to learn how to make?
That’s tough because there’s so many things that I would like to learn. If I had to choose, I think the next dish that I would like to tackle would be Bicol Express. This dish is native to the northern territory of the Philippines (Luzon), in a region known as Bicol. It’s a delicious, slow-cooked stew prepared with roasted pork, coconut milk, chili peppers, and bagoong (fermented shrimp paste). Damn, my mouth is watering just thinking about it!
There are so many Filipino baked goods that I feel people haven't been introduced to yet. Have you ever thought about bringing that into PATAO?
Ube (pronounced ooh-beh) is a purple sweet yam that grows in abundance, but is not entirely unique to the Philippines. However, Filipinos are by far the ones who use the ingredient the most to prepare desserts. Can you imagine purple cake? Purple bread? Purple ice cream? Kind of weird, right? But I definitely can and I love that stuff. I’ve incorporated ube in the form of ice cream for my pop-up, but it would be
Martin, a recent Ph.D in molecular biology and biochemistry, has spent years investigating the dynamics of human skeletal bone development. Sure, his unparalleled interest in the culinary arts might seem unexpected, but he views the kitchen as an extension of the lab—and, more importantly, as a platform to explain Filipino culture and the country's history. Dubbing his dinners "post-colonial Filipino dining events," he tells a story with each bite, with dishes partly inspired by Spanish (Paella), French (Sans Rival—a form of dacquoise), and Chinese (Siopao) culinary techniques. Of course, the evolution of Filipino cuisine wouldn't be complete without Martin's own American and contemporary influence.
Last Saturday, we were lucky enough to score a seat at PATAO's latest pop-up at THANK YOU FOR COMING in Atwater Village. The menu consisted of what Martin thought was "a reflection of tradition and authenticity," incorporating native ingredients and flavors. One of my favorites was the Kare-Kare, a braised oxtail stew prepared in a peanut “curry” sauce with vegetables. Though, after every plate was served at the table, an Instagram frenzy soon began. Not only did each plate satisfy everyone visually but, most importantly, it set the bar for every Filipino meal we would eat thereafter.
To top off the evening, we sat down with the culinary mastermind to talk all things PATAO.
MARK SALDANA: The food was so good! Thank you so much for having me. Were the recipes all from your grandmother?
ANTHONY MARTIN: You’re welcome anytime. The menu that I prepared was a compilation of courses that reflect what I perceive as traditional Filipino dishes. With that said, a lot of what I cooked was absolutely a nod to authentic recipes handed down by my grandmother and other members of the family. However, it was important for me to reinterpret and play with certain ingredients to recognize the modern appetite while honoring tradition to contribute to the evolution of Filipino cuisine.
Is there any Filipino dish that you would love to learn how to make?
That’s tough because there’s so many things that I would like to learn. If I had to choose, I think the next dish that I would like to tackle would be Bicol Express. This dish is native to the northern territory of the Philippines (Luzon), in a region known as Bicol. It’s a delicious, slow-cooked stew prepared with roasted pork, coconut milk, chili peppers, and bagoong (fermented shrimp paste). Damn, my mouth is watering just thinking about it!
There are so many Filipino baked goods that I feel people haven't been introduced to yet. Have you ever thought about bringing that into PATAO?
Ube (pronounced ooh-beh) is a purple sweet yam that grows in abundance, but is not entirely unique to the Philippines. However, Filipinos are by far the ones who use the ingredient the most to prepare desserts. Can you imagine purple cake? Purple bread? Purple ice cream? Kind of weird, right? But I definitely can and I love that stuff. I’ve incorporated ube in the form of ice cream for my pop-up, but it would be