“Just a lot of inspirations—I don’t like to tell of inspirations. The main one is the moment of now,” Moscow-based streetwear designer Gosha Rubchinskiy said after his inaugural fashion show on Wednesday in Paris. Rubchinskiy is known for rummaging around in Russian history—referencing vintage footage of summer sports camps, USSR music scenes, and '80s- and '90s-era skater boys and club kids—“But now, it’s now,” he insisted backstage.
Models with names like Valentine, Jesper, and Luca filed out languidly but at clip, as if these men had somewhere to be. They wore button-downs quilted from gingham or plaid, or three-quarter sleeve tees, and their shirts were always tucked-in to sweatpants, knee-length shorts, or loose dockers. They were shod in Vans-style sneakers and athletic socks hitched up to their calves.Sometimes, the men wore monochrome: all-white, -mustard, or -moss green. They were kitted out in trench and faux-fur coats, perforated leather jackets, denim vests, and hooded sweatshirts, topped off by basic beanies or baseball caps. The collection was boiled-down in a functionalist, even gently Soviet way as uncluttered as it seemed comfortable. And yet, overall, there was something vaguely subversive about these looks. A camouflage-print overcoat was, for example, matched with Pussy Riot-balaclava pink pants. It definitely seemed to mean something.
Best of all, the backs of the coats were patched with Rubik’s Cube-like areas of sky blue, dark green, camo, pink, white, and black; so, with their backs to you, so the models looked like they were bearing pixilated crests. Seems about right for right now, doesn’t it?
“[I studied] the streets of Moscow, New York, and Paris for this season,” Rubchinskiy said. “Just real boys, real streets, and this moment.”
E-MAIL US to be notified once the Spring/Summer 2015 collection hits OC!![]()
Photos courtesy of Gosha Rubchinskiy
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Models with names like Valentine, Jesper, and Luca filed out languidly but at clip, as if these men had somewhere to be. They wore button-downs quilted from gingham or plaid, or three-quarter sleeve tees, and their shirts were always tucked-in to sweatpants, knee-length shorts, or loose dockers. They were shod in Vans-style sneakers and athletic socks hitched up to their calves.Sometimes, the men wore monochrome: all-white, -mustard, or -moss green. They were kitted out in trench and faux-fur coats, perforated leather jackets, denim vests, and hooded sweatshirts, topped off by basic beanies or baseball caps. The collection was boiled-down in a functionalist, even gently Soviet way as uncluttered as it seemed comfortable. And yet, overall, there was something vaguely subversive about these looks. A camouflage-print overcoat was, for example, matched with Pussy Riot-balaclava pink pants. It definitely seemed to mean something.
Best of all, the backs of the coats were patched with Rubik’s Cube-like areas of sky blue, dark green, camo, pink, white, and black; so, with their backs to you, so the models looked like they were bearing pixilated crests. Seems about right for right now, doesn’t it?
“[I studied] the streets of Moscow, New York, and Paris for this season,” Rubchinskiy said. “Just real boys, real streets, and this moment.”
E-MAIL US to be notified once the Spring/Summer 2015 collection hits OC!
Photos courtesy of Gosha Rubchinskiy
