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Lee Roach Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

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If you look at LEE ROACH's Spring/Summer 2015 show and compare it to his previous two shows, you might wonder if you're seeing triple. But that's the point. "Each collection is an evolution of the last through which fabrication and construction play a key role," said Lee. "A new collection should present a new offering without discarding the previous." What Lee presents isn't meant to be groundbreaking, but instead pushes the limits of timeless classics. When we asked the designer to describe his brand in three words, he said, "Modern urban uniform." Defining a uniform is the designer's modus operandi, striving towards a complete, unwavering Lee Roach aesthetic.

The clothes this season are made in a limited palette of red, khaki, black, navy, and white, with a sprinkling of construction orange thrown in for a jarring effect. Lightweight and double-faced linens keep the looks breezy but structured, and the previous seasons' fastening belt closures were replaced with snap buttons to further streamline the exterior. High waistbelts cinch the slim-fitting coats, evoking the image of stripped-down military garments, which, unsurprisingly, Lee is a fan of: "I am interested in how military garments are designed purely with function in mind, specifically the tactical vests and detachable shells, [and] the way in which they are constructed and fastened." But, it's uniforms of all kind that serve as muse, with sports uniforms informing the vinyl prints (including the word "PROTECT," which emphasizes the designer's idea of a protective uniform) and mesh tank tops.

In a world of hypebeasts and constantly changing trends, such asceticism is unique and refreshing. Garments are stripped of clutter, creating sleek silhouettes. Coats are left purposely unlined yet perfectly refined, toying with the combination of comfort and formality. With each collection Lee presents a further-modernized version of Savile Row classics. His search for the urban uniform produces looks that are appealing across the board—whether you're into the minimalist look, or are just after a no-nonsense wardrobe.

E-mail ONLINE@OPENINGCEREMONY.US to be notified once the Spring/Summer 2015 collection hits OC! 
Photos by Charles Moriarty 

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