Now backed by LVMH, J.W. Anderson needs to make bigger, bolder statements. And there’s no doubt about it: The J.W. Anderson man is confident in himself as told by this hyper-sexualized Spring/Summer collection. Navel-baring vests and bare-chested ensembles left little of the male anatomy to the imagination, all the while giving the designer ample opportunity to exercise his creative tailoring.
Boxy, knitted vests opened the show, and were paired with loose suit trousers and bouncy-soled leather slip-on shoes. Textile designer James Allen was responsible for the knitted fabrications, creating tapestry-like scenic British river landscapes that Anderson rendered into simple, structured tabards.
Next, classic navy pinstripe silk fabrics made up manly jumpsuits (or what appeared as jumpsuits and were otherwise shirts tightly tucked into matching pinstripe pants). It was here that Anderson’s innovative tailoring took shape. Giving us a new take on the three-piece suit, an apron-like addition made up the final component in the pinstripe combo, one that we’re more accustomed to seeing on baristas and waiters rather than catwalk models.
To follow, ‘70s-style striped materials made up similar ensembles, before purple and ecru chest-baring jackets teamed with loose pants stormed the runway. Simple, tailored shapes got the creative treatment with lapel edges that were left raw, fraying, and exposed.
The idea of sexuality was taken to an all-time high with knitwear's über-skimpy shapes. Chunky knitwear was shrunken, so much so that tight-fitting vests barely covered both nipples whilst zip-fronted cardigans revealed the navel and pecks. Would guys wear these? Some might. Others might leave them, investing instead in the silk tailored pieces or modest slim-fit knitted polo shirts that followed.
What we loved most was the innovation in design elements with novel silhouettes utilizing knots. Just as we used to tie our school sweatshirts around our waists in order to free our hands for chasing the boys, Anderson tied his upside-down and around models' shoulders, to fashion vests with gaping sides and off-the-shoulder necklines.
Shirt collars were different, too. Somewhere between a cowl collar, a shawl neck, and a pussy-bow blouse, the collars' elegance contrasted the chiseled structure of the male models' necks. Loosely draped, these ‘scarves’ were used on super slouchy trench coats and silk shirts alike. Will they catch on? We shall have to wait and see.
E-mail ONLINE@OPENINGCEREMONY.US to be notified once the Spring/Summer 2015 collection hits OC!![/]()
Photos by Tia Simon-Campbell
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Boxy, knitted vests opened the show, and were paired with loose suit trousers and bouncy-soled leather slip-on shoes. Textile designer James Allen was responsible for the knitted fabrications, creating tapestry-like scenic British river landscapes that Anderson rendered into simple, structured tabards.
Next, classic navy pinstripe silk fabrics made up manly jumpsuits (or what appeared as jumpsuits and were otherwise shirts tightly tucked into matching pinstripe pants). It was here that Anderson’s innovative tailoring took shape. Giving us a new take on the three-piece suit, an apron-like addition made up the final component in the pinstripe combo, one that we’re more accustomed to seeing on baristas and waiters rather than catwalk models.
To follow, ‘70s-style striped materials made up similar ensembles, before purple and ecru chest-baring jackets teamed with loose pants stormed the runway. Simple, tailored shapes got the creative treatment with lapel edges that were left raw, fraying, and exposed.
The idea of sexuality was taken to an all-time high with knitwear's über-skimpy shapes. Chunky knitwear was shrunken, so much so that tight-fitting vests barely covered both nipples whilst zip-fronted cardigans revealed the navel and pecks. Would guys wear these? Some might. Others might leave them, investing instead in the silk tailored pieces or modest slim-fit knitted polo shirts that followed.
What we loved most was the innovation in design elements with novel silhouettes utilizing knots. Just as we used to tie our school sweatshirts around our waists in order to free our hands for chasing the boys, Anderson tied his upside-down and around models' shoulders, to fashion vests with gaping sides and off-the-shoulder necklines.
Shirt collars were different, too. Somewhere between a cowl collar, a shawl neck, and a pussy-bow blouse, the collars' elegance contrasted the chiseled structure of the male models' necks. Loosely draped, these ‘scarves’ were used on super slouchy trench coats and silk shirts alike. Will they catch on? We shall have to wait and see.
E-mail ONLINE@OPENINGCEREMONY.US to be notified once the Spring/Summer 2015 collection hits OC!
Photos by Tia Simon-Campbell
