Midnight in Paris, the Eiffel Tower light show, le "cwa-son"—there's something about contemporary French culture that begets ease, romance, and indulgence. For women's Resort 2015, Kenzo creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon captured a healthy dose of that Parisian élan, unveiling 29 looks at yesterday's collection presentation at 4 World Trade Center in New York.
In the '60s, when Kenzo Takada left Japan and arrived in Paris, he sought to embrace a newfound lifestyle. In a similar vein, Carol and Humberto's current collection reinterprets Parisian staples from a unique, American vantage point. "It's our interpretation of the French landscape and how women dress: the culmination of everything from true Parisians to tourists," Humberto said. "We wanted to celebrate the excess."
Thusly, the duo took apart classic French pieces, like the peacoat or a girl's chemise, and played with volumes and silhouettes to lend a quirky-modern, wholly Kenzo treatment. Models were sent down a revolving platform that resembled a 3D cityscape in wide-leg sailor pants and exaggerated polka-dots, voluminous jacquard empire dresses, Gallic-inspired jackets, and even peasant blouses reworked as nylon anorak-type tops.
Of course, what's "très chic" without some shine and attention to detail? "If you look at the buttons and medallions and accessories, they represent things from Kenzo or the Eiffel Tower and Statue of Liberty, very much celebrating the collection of souvenirs and trinkets," Humberto said. If this is excess, we'll gladly take it all (in the label's new "bike" bag, bien sur).
Below, a word association game with Humberto, using themes from the collection:
Navy Breton stripe: "classic"
Girl's chemise: "exaggerated"
Parisian daywear: "Parisian nightwear"
Hardware: "excessive"
Trinkets: "love!'
Sailor pants: "push it"
Gold chainmail necklaces: "the more, the merrier"
Bike bag: "convenient"
Metal cuffs: "a must"
Photos by Matthew Kelly
In the '60s, when Kenzo Takada left Japan and arrived in Paris, he sought to embrace a newfound lifestyle. In a similar vein, Carol and Humberto's current collection reinterprets Parisian staples from a unique, American vantage point. "It's our interpretation of the French landscape and how women dress: the culmination of everything from true Parisians to tourists," Humberto said. "We wanted to celebrate the excess."
Thusly, the duo took apart classic French pieces, like the peacoat or a girl's chemise, and played with volumes and silhouettes to lend a quirky-modern, wholly Kenzo treatment. Models were sent down a revolving platform that resembled a 3D cityscape in wide-leg sailor pants and exaggerated polka-dots, voluminous jacquard empire dresses, Gallic-inspired jackets, and even peasant blouses reworked as nylon anorak-type tops.
Of course, what's "très chic" without some shine and attention to detail? "If you look at the buttons and medallions and accessories, they represent things from Kenzo or the Eiffel Tower and Statue of Liberty, very much celebrating the collection of souvenirs and trinkets," Humberto said. If this is excess, we'll gladly take it all (in the label's new "bike" bag, bien sur).
Below, a word association game with Humberto, using themes from the collection:
Navy Breton stripe: "classic"
Girl's chemise: "exaggerated"
Parisian daywear: "Parisian nightwear"
Hardware: "excessive"
Trinkets: "love!'
Sailor pants: "push it"
Gold chainmail necklaces: "the more, the merrier"
Bike bag: "convenient"
Metal cuffs: "a must"
Photos by Matthew Kelly