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Mama's Boy: Pichet Ong

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They say you are your own worst critic, and second in line is Mother Dearest. It’s all out of love, of course, but moms give it to you straight—with that uncanny way of dredging out every last, embarrassing "remember when" at the dinner table. In honor of May 11, we’re featuring four of New York’s finest culinary personalities and the apples of their eyes. To end our series on a sweet note: Pichet Ong and his mother, Ruby.

By no small exaggeration, PicheT ONG is one of the most celebrated pastry chefs in the US. Now a television food personality and international restaurant consultant, the Singapore-and-Thailand raised chef is credited with sparking the sweet-and-savory dessert trend (bacon-maple cupcakes, anyone?). His concoctions have graced the lips of everyone from Oprah to Karlie Kloss, and call up any number of culinary greats, from Alice Waters (Pichet received training at Chez Panisse) to Jean-Georges Vongerichten (his work at Spice Market and 66 earned him multiple James Beard nods), and they’ll have some great Pichet story to regale. Fun fact: In close circles, he’s also known as the “original hipster chef” and something of a fashion plate, wearing Burkman Brothers and Thom Browne well before the compulsory tattoo sleeve became a trend. And of course, he also happens to be a mama’s boy.


JEANINE CELESTE PANG: What is one of the first things you remember about Pichet?
RUBY WONG: When he was born, I remember his father saying, “Wow. He has blue eyes!" Pichet was born with open, blue eyes. And he was big—about nine pounds.

And what about his sweets? What is your favorite thing your son makes?
RW: His pastries, I guess. [Laughs] He used to make a lot of ice cream and sherbets when we were living in Thailand. It worked well in the heat, and the fruit in Thailand was so fresh and delicious. He was only 15, but he would be making fresh sherbet with the durian and mangosteen. But, nobody knew that he would become a chef; we didn’t expect that.

Pichet, what is the first thing you remember cooking with your mother?
PICHET ONG: A soy-braised pork, which is typical of homestyle cooking for all regions of China. My mom's version tends to have plenty of cinnamon, star anise, honey, wine, ginger, and scallion. We still continue to make those together, but with a leaner cutlet (like kurobuta loin). We’re watching our weight, these days!

You two live together in Chelsea. How often do you sit down and cook, or have a meal together?
RW: Once a week, maybe. We’ll go out to eat. I like the restaurant Lincoln—we’ll order the branzino and pasta there (even though I’m not supposed to be eating the pasta now!).

What is one great lesson that your mom has taught you?
PO: She’s taught me a lot, but definitely the idea of not dwelling on the past—you can always start over in life, but it takes time. My mom’s life is all about starting over; she’s gone through a lot of heartbreak and tragedy, but still keeps her fighting spirit intact.

What do you think is the best thing about your son?
RW: He’s compassionate. He likes to help people; I remember even when he was in elementary school, he would be helping other classmates after school with their homework a

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