Greta Garbo, Marilyn Monroe, Marlene Dietrich—Roksanda Ilincic's roll call of glamorous influences sounds like the lyrics to Madonna's "Vogue". (Annnd I'm sold.) From her childhood in Belgrade, the designer developed a love for electric colors and out-there Eastern European quirk. Now based in London, where she studied fashion at Central St. Martins, Roksanda is gathering a whirlwind of praise for her jewel toned silks, couture-like construction, and fearless silhouettes.
For her resort collection, inspired by the glamor of 30s screen stars, Roksanda presents voluminous wide-leg pants, dramatic peak-lapel blazers, and cocoon-sleeve blouses. In a blend of crepe silk and raffia, with bright citrus accents, the mood is cabanas and coladas but on a dramatic backdrop of deep navy and pitch black.
In the lead up to London Fashion Week—where Roksanda will be showing for the seventh year running—I managed to catch up with the designer for some background on her current collection, and to confirm a rumor I'd heard about her silks.
Shop all Roksanda Ilincic here.
Alice Newell-Hanson: Hi Roksanda! If you were wearing your resort collection on vacation, where would you be going and who are you going with?
Roksanda Ilincic: Actually, this summer I really did go away—to Sicily with my family. The collection is so bright and cheerful that it's perfect to have on holiday. The colors were actually inspired by a trip there the previous year, so I was very well coordinated!
ANH: The silhouettes are so strong this season. Was there a particular era or atmosphere you had in mind?
RI: The collection was inspired by a relaxed and luxurious old-Hollywood look, but lots of the shapes were completely new. Fresh spring colors added a real crispness, too—it has a feeling of understated glamor.
ANH: How did raffia enter the mix?
RI: Fabrics are a crucial part of all my collections and I love to mix different textures. The raffia is beautiful because it's a natural fabric and actually very soft, even though it's futuristic and sculptural by nature. I have two different weights of it this season and they work so well together when constructing bold shapes like the orange and black sweatshirt top.
ANH: What is the most outlandish piece you’ve ever designed?
RI: I designed a special wedding dress and hat for Swarovski a few years ago and it traveled around the world. The finished pieces are so elaborate that the hat alone is housed in a huge shipping crate over 6 feet tall! It's created a partition wall in part of our studio—we’re quite attached to it now.
ANH: What was the fashion like growing up in Belgrade? What were you wearing age 13?
RI: Extremely colorful, which is partly where I got my love for it from. But at 13 I was wearing my school uniform. I did my best to make it individual, though, and I customized it as much as I could get away with!
ANH: As someone with a taste for old-school glamor, could you give us your essential, golden age Hollywood movie?
RI: Romance with Greta Garbo
ANH: Finally, is it true that your silk manufacturer also supplies to the Pope?
RI: Yes! It's a beautiful mill that we've worked with for many years now. It's nice to know that "Made in Italy" really does mean the highest qual
For her resort collection, inspired by the glamor of 30s screen stars, Roksanda presents voluminous wide-leg pants, dramatic peak-lapel blazers, and cocoon-sleeve blouses. In a blend of crepe silk and raffia, with bright citrus accents, the mood is cabanas and coladas but on a dramatic backdrop of deep navy and pitch black.
In the lead up to London Fashion Week—where Roksanda will be showing for the seventh year running—I managed to catch up with the designer for some background on her current collection, and to confirm a rumor I'd heard about her silks.
Shop all Roksanda Ilincic here.
Alice Newell-Hanson: Hi Roksanda! If you were wearing your resort collection on vacation, where would you be going and who are you going with?
Roksanda Ilincic: Actually, this summer I really did go away—to Sicily with my family. The collection is so bright and cheerful that it's perfect to have on holiday. The colors were actually inspired by a trip there the previous year, so I was very well coordinated!
ANH: The silhouettes are so strong this season. Was there a particular era or atmosphere you had in mind?
RI: The collection was inspired by a relaxed and luxurious old-Hollywood look, but lots of the shapes were completely new. Fresh spring colors added a real crispness, too—it has a feeling of understated glamor.
ANH: How did raffia enter the mix?
RI: Fabrics are a crucial part of all my collections and I love to mix different textures. The raffia is beautiful because it's a natural fabric and actually very soft, even though it's futuristic and sculptural by nature. I have two different weights of it this season and they work so well together when constructing bold shapes like the orange and black sweatshirt top.
ANH: What is the most outlandish piece you’ve ever designed?
RI: I designed a special wedding dress and hat for Swarovski a few years ago and it traveled around the world. The finished pieces are so elaborate that the hat alone is housed in a huge shipping crate over 6 feet tall! It's created a partition wall in part of our studio—we’re quite attached to it now.
ANH: What was the fashion like growing up in Belgrade? What were you wearing age 13?
RI: Extremely colorful, which is partly where I got my love for it from. But at 13 I was wearing my school uniform. I did my best to make it individual, though, and I customized it as much as I could get away with!
ANH: As someone with a taste for old-school glamor, could you give us your essential, golden age Hollywood movie?
RI: Romance with Greta Garbo
ANH: Finally, is it true that your silk manufacturer also supplies to the Pope?
RI: Yes! It's a beautiful mill that we've worked with for many years now. It's nice to know that "Made in Italy" really does mean the highest qual