Kenzo’s Fall/Winter show, presented today at the legendary La Samaritaine department store in Paris, was a total aesthetic treat for the senses. Our very own co-founders Carol and Humberto showed a rich collection inspired by the temples of India, China, and Nepal. As with each season since they took over the house in 2011, the show fused multicultural elements much in the same way Kenzo Takada did in his heyday. To hear M.I.A.’s exclusive soundtrack with its Bollywood-heavy beats in the long-empty art deco masterpiece of La Samaritaine was a delightful juxtaposition, and one that made perfect sense given the ethnic-meets-Parisian vibe of the clothing. The all-seeing protective eye talisman was an important symbol for the collection, and it appeared in several incarnations.
The temple theme was working on both a micro and macro level. Textures were key to this outing, with the stacked nature of temples informing a huge range of experimental fabrics including crocodile-bumpy brocade, woven-metal organza, and one made with strips of grosgrain ribbons. Humberto explained to me earlier this week that some of the most prized vintage Kenzo pieces use this ribbon inlay technique, so they set about to recreate them for a new generation. Ribbons also popped up in some of Delfina Delettrez’s jewelry for the brand, like an undulating metal ring, as well as cool sunglasses.
Outerwear was particularly strong this season. The light blue cropped fox fur on Lindsey Wixon was a dream. But in a less obvious way, simple black wool coats in different cuts were chic and sweet, especially with eye-printed silk linings.
And as for those Kenzo fans that snap up everything tiger-printed, they will have plenty of eye-printed pieces to keep them happy this fall. Sweatshirts printed with one giant eye, sweatshirts with an allover eye pattern, and even shoes with little eyes. “This season is more about the pop side of the brand,” said Humberto before the show. It was certainly eye-popping!
Photos by Harry Carr | E-mail SISI@OPENINGCEREMONY.US to be notified when the FW13 collection arrives at OC!
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The temple theme was working on both a micro and macro level. Textures were key to this outing, with the stacked nature of temples informing a huge range of experimental fabrics including crocodile-bumpy brocade, woven-metal organza, and one made with strips of grosgrain ribbons. Humberto explained to me earlier this week that some of the most prized vintage Kenzo pieces use this ribbon inlay technique, so they set about to recreate them for a new generation. Ribbons also popped up in some of Delfina Delettrez’s jewelry for the brand, like an undulating metal ring, as well as cool sunglasses.
Outerwear was particularly strong this season. The light blue cropped fox fur on Lindsey Wixon was a dream. But in a less obvious way, simple black wool coats in different cuts were chic and sweet, especially with eye-printed silk linings.
And as for those Kenzo fans that snap up everything tiger-printed, they will have plenty of eye-printed pieces to keep them happy this fall. Sweatshirts printed with one giant eye, sweatshirts with an allover eye pattern, and even shoes with little eyes. “This season is more about the pop side of the brand,” said Humberto before the show. It was certainly eye-popping!
Photos by Harry Carr | E-mail SISI@OPENINGCEREMONY.US to be notified when the FW13 collection arrives at OC!
