OC x LFW: J.W. Anderson FW13

Monday night saw J.W. Anderson present "Semiology of the Self," one of his most remarkable and conceptual collections yet. In the depths of the Tate Modern's Tanks, the models marched out to a thumping drum beat, all uniformly clad in white orthopedic shoes. The clothes were austere and clean, with high necklines and draped sleeves resembling hospital gowns. There were even tops which restricted the movement of one arm, bandaging it to the body with neoprene, almost like a straight jacket.

It was all about legs and elongation, with Anderson showing the shortest of mini skirts and playing with angles and hemlines. Longer skirts and dresses were slit up the thigh, cut shorter at the back or ruched at the sides. Loose trousers were paired with tight tops that criss-crossed across the middle, giving a nod to a 90s silhouette as well as reiterating the idea of a straight jacket.

As with previous collections, there was a continued examination of opposites. This was apparent in both the way the designer blurs the boundary between his men's and women's collections, as well as through the technical fabrics and textures in the collection––beautiful mink fur tunics were shown with loose, varnished nylon trousers that had a papery appearance, and leather was ruched and folded. The clinical aesthetic was echoed in the model's hair: slicked and poker-straight, with some bizarre angles thrown in.

Photos by Harry Carr | E-mail SISI@OPENINGCEREMONY.US to be notified when the FW13 collection arrives at OC!