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    Blink and you may miss it. Whether it's a bar, band, or fad, it might be all the rage one month, and the next, it's old news. So is the case with restaurants. What was August's unbeatable burger is now long forgotten, with only its wrapper blowing around like tumbleweed through the streets, replaced by a version with a softer bun and more garlicky mayo. It's tough for them, but it's brilliant for us. This week, for our tasting pleasure, three newly opened restaurants in East London (close to our Shoreditch location!) that have our mouths watering. 

    The Diner 

    There were tears (well, virtual Twitter tears) when The Diner arrived in Dalston this week. Some bemoan another notch on the gentrification ladder; others celebrate in sheer excitement and carb-fuelled joy. The latter camp makes a strong case though, with sweet potato fries, mammoth onion rings, juicy burgers, and hard teas. Located slap bang next to Dalston Junction station, The Diner is an ultra-casual, American-themed—you guessed it—diner, which serves big portions and a long list of alcoholic bevs and fries. One of our favorite things about The Diner is the infinite number of toppings you can add to your burger. "The cheeseburger please, with added guacamole, bacon, extra Swiss cheese, chili sauce, roast tomato, and onions—thanks." 

    Pond Dalston 

    Duke's Bar & Que barbecue restaurant-come-pub is quite easily one of our favorite things about Haggerston. So you can imagine our excitement in hearing that the team behind it has opened Pond, a Hawaiian restaurant just down the road in Dalston. Owner Byron Knight describes Pond as "the fine dining blend of traditional Hawaiian food, the best European cooking techniques, and dishes from Hawaii’s main immigrant communities—Chinese, Japanese, and Filipino." The menu includes an eclectic mix, with the likes of lemongrass Bulgogi steak poke, a trio of miso-dressed fishes, smoky beef ribs, ginger and coriander catfish, and macadamia coconut rice pudding. Sounds damn fabulous, right? 

    Dirty Burger
    Across the road from Shoreditch High Street station, London's fourth Dirty Burger has just opened, tucking itself into a tiny little unit with low ceilings and with no more than 10 seats. You know what they say: great things come in small packages. With shiny-topped buns as soft as Shake Shack and juicy, meaty patties, the burgers here are worth writing home about. Even the veggie burger, or the Dirty Cop Out as they call it here, is impressive, with griddled Portobello mushrooms and rocket. Don't forget to top your meal off with doughnuts—ring ones, glazed ones, and chocolaty-sprinkled ones as far as the eye can see.  



    The newly opened American-themed restaurant The Diner is sure to induce a carb coma. All photos courtesy of The Diner, Pond Dalston, and Dirty BurgerYou can add an infinite number of toppings to burgers at The Diner... dangerous! A delicious Hawaiian entree from Pond Dalston The Pond Dalston team—Bulgogi steak poke, anyone? 

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    Tuesday's Rodarte Spring/Summer 2015 show took the beauty world by storm—featuring some seriously badass brow rings. Intrigued, we asked makeup artist James Kaliardos to give us the rundown on how he created the army of fresh faces. “She’s beautiful and cool,” says Kaliardos. Beautiful and slightly intimidating. 

    The punky arches were offset by the prettiness of the makeup, which featured monochromatic washes of deep roses. Kaliardos lightly dusted lids with a blend of chestnut and pink shadows, and then blended sparkly gold highlighter beneath the lower lashlines. (“It just helps catch the light.”) He erased any evidence of a late night by tracing waterlines with nude pencil. To give the models a healthy flush, he repurposed the just-used brown shadow as blush, mixed in a peach shade, and applied it high on the apples of the cheeks and tops of the cheekbones. He finished up with the “perfect alternative to a nude lip”: a beige-rose shade or a creamy mauve depending on the models’ skin tone.

    The next step was certainly the most intriguing and unique part of the whole look—getting the girls “pierced,” which meant affixing seven C-shaped rings on each brow, using clear glue and tweezers. The look came across incredibly Jacques Cousteau meets Game of Thrones. The face jewelry might have been temporary, but it might just inspire something more permanent in a showgoer or two.

    Shop all Rodarte here
    W
    ant more on the Mulleavy sisters? Check out their current obsessions
     here
    Makeup artist James Kaliardos blended gold highlighter beneath the lower lashlines to "catch the light." Photos courtesy of NARS

    The beauty look at yesterday's Rodarte show. 

    Seven individual rings were "pierced" onto each brow using glue and tweezers. 

    Stunning finale looks!  

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    Opening Ceremony is giving you an all-access pass to NYFW Spring/Summer 2015. This season, we're doing things a little differently—with just the show essentials and backstage highlights. Above, a dispatch from today's Spring/Summer 2015 Delpozo show.

    Want more from New York Fashion Week? Stay up-to-the-minute on S/S 2015, right
    here.

    Shop all Delpozo
    here!

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    Recording artist, novelist, and drag priestess Alexis Blair Penney sheds light on his Wiccan ways. 

    For years I was a spiritual wanderer. I dabbled in Wicca when I was young, but was discouraged from it by my mother before I was confirmed in the Methodist church. At 18 I lived with a would-be cult leader who informed me he was an envoy from the 15th dimension sent to teach me how to levitate and time travel, but I had to kick him out after two months—he was definitely psychic but also a mess.

    My life changed when I stumbled on Starhawk’s 1977 neo-Pagan treatise The Spiral Dance, in which she eloquently and matter-of-factly describes a revived but ancient tradition of connecting with the rhythms, the elements, and nature, embodied within the immanent metaphysical Goddess. Wicca means to bend, shape, or move. The ritual process is diverse and open to interpretation, including movement, song, meditation, and visualization, for the purposes of uniting the disparate parts of the self in union with the natural rhythms of life.

    I realized I’d been practicing magic for years without knowing it, entreating the universe in various ways to shape itself to my will. Once I even masturbated onto a sigil I drew of my ex-boyfriend’s name and the words “Come back” and sealed it in a box of his things. Miraculously, the worst thing that happened was I developed a spontaneous and never-before-seen mole in the exact private place where he also has one. I took it as a warning. Wiccans forbid the use of magic for selfish or malicious ends, insisting that everything you put out into the world will eventually return.

    Following my new passion, I found myself the only male in a dark ante-room off of an occult bookstore on a chilly spring day in Bushwick with several mostly older women of various backgrounds. I was attending a workshop series on creating ritual in the Reclaiming tradition, a collective which Starhawk helped to found. We were led by an experienced priestess appropriately called BrightFlame, who, for four weeks, with a soft voice and appropriately flashing eyes, taught us how to ground and center our connection to the earth, cast a circle, open to divine guidance, and craft and practice Wiccan ritual, guiding the energies of the elements for creative and restorative purposes. The experience was invigorating and powerful, but my practice remains mostly solitary. I track the cycles of the moon, pray and burn offerings to the Goddess, and generally try to invoke and connect with Her and the elements in everything I do.

    The full moon just happened this Monday past. It was a heavy one, and I know I’m not the only one feeling the ramifications of all the tumult and upheaval in the world. This Monday, though I didn’t get time to practice ritual, I was lucky enough not only to have sex with an infrequent booty call, but also share energy with the audience at my favorite drag show, lip-synching and belting my lungs out about lovers I’ve wronged and who’ve wronged me, all while mostly nude. But it’s been over a week since I had some time with Her, so tonight I’ll sit before my altar, light candles, burn some cedar and sage, and cast a circle; move energy through me and my tools—wands, stones, a ritual dagger—to cleanse and purify myself so that I may more fully be Her vessel.

    In Wicca we affirm the interconnectedness and sanctity of all life, and are passionately committed to enact the Goddess’ work on earth, guiding us someday back to the principles of equality, connection, and love. The interconnectedness of all beings can often manifest as stress, too, so as the moon wanes, fee

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    Last Friday, Klaus Biesenbach, director of MoMA PS1, posted a picture to his Instagram of the dance sensation Skrillex. The caption to the picture read "#skrillex," informally announcing the EDM superstar as the special guest closer for the last of PS1's Warm Up summer series.

    Unashamed and utterly lucid, Skrillex delivered his characteristic bass-heavy set with exciting poise and sheer fervor. The performance peered into the DJ's deftness as a performer—and his artistry not only as a producer but also as an entertainer.

    All in all, it was a busy weekend for the DJ. Between three headlining shows, recordings sessions with Kelela and Ratking, and making an appearance at New York Fashion Week (including the Opening Ceremony show and after-party), we managed to catch up with the six-time Grammy winner. Below, his thoughts on the Fashion Week experience, the evolution of styles in electronic dance music, and his newfound admiration for artist James Trussell.


    KYLE WUKASCHHow's your Fashion Week going so far?
    SKRILLEX: We arrived in NY just to play three shows: Marquee, Provocateur, and PS1. But now we’re still here! New York is a place I've been coming to for years and it's a place where it's always just full on. There is always something going on, so my experience has been spontaneous. 

    Is this your first experience with Fashion Week?
    I've done Fashion Week before. Actually, the first paid gig I ever did as Skrillex was through Fashion Week in 2010—I released a track for free called "Cat Rats." I originally made it for this fashion show for a line called Native Sons. It wasn't a runway show. It was a presentation. So, yeah, Fashion Week is something I've been coming to for a while and experiencing in a many different forms, both as a creative and as a guest.

    Which shows did you take in this year?
    Alexander Wang, Versus Versace, Opening Ceremony, Skin Graft—each special in its own way.

    Was there anything particular that you’re taking away from your experience?
    It was crazy see to Opening Ceremony, of course—probably my favorite overall experience. I especially loved the element of surprise when you're sitting on the steps and all of the sudden the curtain drops. You feel like you’re in this mini theater, but you’re really backstage looking at this giant theater. That was cool.

    I mean, Spike Jonze and Jonah Hill are geniuses. And it was so cool to see the show. It also got really weird and deep—talking about how models are depressed and whatnot. That was something new for me, and I really appreciated it as art.

    How have you seen style evolve in the electronic dance music scene over the course of your career?
    I've seen it change from being polar opposites—at least in LA. It started as either very handbag [house] or very raver-PLUR (Peace Love Unity Respect), with lots of beads. And t

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    As anyone waiting for that boy/girl to text knows, updates can be just as important as dates. In Cosmic Numbers, Morgan Rehbock, the guru behind our monthly ASTROLOGY IRL column, divines the stars to bring you in-the-moment advice on important dates.
     
    VIRGO
    (August 23 - September 22)
    While Venus is in your sign this month, you'll be getting extra love and attention from your friends. They'll finally be as organized as you are, and it will be incredibly pleasing!
     
    LIBRA
    (September 23 - October 22)
    You might be feeling a bit more picky and prickly when it comes to matters of the heart because your ruling planet, Venus, is in the highly analytical sign of Virgo until the end of September.
     
    SCORPIO
    (October 23 - November 22)
    You'll be the epicenter of your social group this month while Venus transits your 11th house of friendships. Plan a party to capitalize on your popularity.
     
    SAGITTARIUS
    (November 23 - December 21)
    Organization has never been one of your strong suits; you prefer to let serendipity and luck be your guiding forces. However, some attention to the small details could lead to major career rewards this month.
     
    CAPRICORN
    (December 22 - January 19)
    Plan a vacation before the end of September, and all the details will fall perfectly in to place. Venus, the planet of pleasure, will make sure you enjoy any trip. 
     
    AQUARIUS
    (January 20 - February 19)
    You'll have the power to untangle any financial fiasco this month while Venus, the planet of money, is in the part of your chart that rules debt disasters.
     
    PISCES
    (February 20 - March 20)
    This month is ideal for communicating on a positive level with your significant others. Your psychic connection will be strong and sweet. 
     
    ARIES
    (March 21 - April 20)
    While Venus is in Virgo this month, you'll be feeling more love from your co-workers and collaborators. They really appreciate how organized you've become!
     
    TAURUS
    (April 21 - May 20)
    Getting creative projects organized is key this month if you want to see things really take off this fall.
     
    GEMINI
    (May 21 - June 20)
    You have a tendency to be scattered in regards to household chores, but some extra domestic diligence this month could lead to a much spiffier relationship with roommates.
     
    CANCER
    (June 21 - July 22)
    You'll be able to organize your emotional baggage this month while Venus, the planet of love, is in the thoroughly analytical sign of Virgo.

    LEO
    (July 23 - August 22)
    Venus in Virgo for the rest of September provides an ideal opportunity for you to organize your finances and do the serious accounting you've been trying to avoid. 

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  • 09/10/14--21:00: The Look: Chloe Sevigny
  • In THE LOOK, OC friends drop by to try on our favorite new arrivals and tell us about their wardrobe preferences past and present. This week, OC co-founder Humberto Leon interviewed actress and designer Chloë Sevigny ahead of her SS15 Chloë Sevigny for Opening Ceremony collection, which debuted today at The High Line Hotel in downtown NYC. 

    HUMBERTO LEON: Tell me a little bit about growing up and how you got to dress the way you dress. 
    CHLOË SEVIGNY: How did I get to dress the way I dress? Well, my mother let me wear whatever I wanted. When I was a very young age, she was never judgmental with my clothes and selections; she was encouraging. There was a summer where I only wore a Wonder Woman swimsuit every day; I was probably five. She was very free as far as things like that were concerned. She had a trunk full of clothes that she had for me that she found at thrift stores—different gowns, different beaded stuff. You know, girly dress-up stuff. 

    That's fun, kind of costumey. 
    So fun, super costumey. Sequined unitards with feathers. I was super into them and super into expressing myself through my dress-up box. That was my favorite game, playing dress-up and putting on these crazy outfits and running through the house or the yard. Having tea parties, making forts in the backyard in some crazy gown.

    And would you wear these to school? 
    School, not as much. When I was really young, I was really into Little House On the Prairie, which I’ve said a million times and I know is boring. But, I always wanted to dress like girls on Little House, so I wore little brown button-up booties and calico dresses.

    Hearing about both of these two things, it kind of feels like it has really informed your way of dressing in adult life. There's a fun essence in the way you dress, but also some properness and the girliness, too. 
    Yeah, and then I remember after that, like getting into pre-teen when you start to discover yourself. Growing up in the community that I grew up in, there were certain standards and there were certain brands that were popular.  

    What were they?  
    This is when everybody was just trying to find their identity but also kind of go with the crowd. So it was all about Esprit, it was all about Benetton, and it was all about Guess Jeans. It was like, how many pairs of Guess Jeans do you own and how many pairs of Esprit? And Esprit was my favorite because of the catalogs. I was really inspired by the way they had the girls styled in the catalogs and the mish-mashes of patterns and the crazy braids and weird bows. 

    You wanted the full look. 
    I was really into it. My dad would bring me to Bloomingdale's or Saks Fifth Avenue in the city. We were going on the train from Connecticut into the city, going into the big department stores and going into the Esprit section and shopping. So to me, the city always had all this glamour and fashion, and I remember he just said, “Well, you know that Madonna and Cyndi Lauper shop at Fiorucci,” and I was like, “Then we HAVE to go to Fiorucci!” We went to Fiorcucci and we sat outside of Fiorucci for hours, and I said, “I don’t want to leave; I want to see Madonna! I want to see Cyndi really bad!” 

    And were either of them inspirations for you?
    Oh, for sure.

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    For those not familiar with the Flat Stanley classic '60s children's books, the central character of Stanley Lambchop has magical powers to flatten out, conveniently traveling the world (mode of transporation: envelopes) and posing in photographs with new and old friends. Then, in 1995, a Canadian schoolteacher started a phenomenon called The Flat Stanley Project, a student global exchange where hand-drawn Flat Stanley paper dolls would be sent to friends across the world, often to return (albeit a little rough around the edges) with a souvenir or postcard from their travels. 

    Sounds like fun, right? It happens that Calvin Klein's creative director Francisco Costa is a big fan of the children's series, so he created his own version of Flat Stanley: Flat Sara. In like fashion, Costa captured his little pal doing some of their favorite downtown New York adventures—from eating oysters with Dree Hemingway at The Fat Radish to climbing those red stairs at Opening Ceremony. And even better, she's wearing beautiful Calvin Klein Collection items currently being sold at our New York flagship. Talk about a gal's dreams coming true.

    Watch the Calvin Klein Collection Spring/Summer 2015 livestream show here!

    Shop men's Calvin Klein Collection here. Women's Calvin Klein Collection RTW in stores now
    "Stopped by The Fat Radish to meet Phil Wisner and Dree Hemingway before heading off to the New Museum." -Francisco Costa and Flat Sara. All photos courtesy of Francisco Costa and Calvin KleinAt The Fat Radish, Flat Sara wears this Calvin Klein Collection Fall/Winter 2014 look
    "The Here and Elsewhere exhibition at the New Museum was beautiful. We recharged at Intelligentsia Coffee before going to Opening Ceremony."

    At Intelligentsia, Flat Sara wears this Calvin Klein Collection Fall/Winter 2014 look (recently seen on Rooney Mara at the brand's SS15 show!) Photo courtesy of BFA
    "Checked out the launch of Calvin Klein Collection in Opening Ceremony!"At Opening Ceremony, Flat Sara wears this Calvin Klein Collection Fall/Winter 2014 look
    "The selection of books at Dashwood Books is always a source of inspiration!"At Dashwood, Flat Sara wears this Calvin Klein Collection Fall/Winter 2014 look
    "Nick's Place, next to Calvin Klein HQ, always takes care of my breakfast needs during the workweek, which usually means an egg-white omelette with spinach, tomato, and

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    Opening Ceremony is giving you an all-access pass to NYFW Spring/Summer 2015. This season, we're doing things a little differently—with just the show essentials and backstage highlights. Above, a dispatch from yesterday's Spring/Summer 2015 Maria ke Fisherman presentation.

    Want more from this year's New York Fashion Week? Stay up-to-the-minute on S/S 2015, right here.


    Photos by Jonathan Baskin 

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    Here at OC, we are struck by how often we end up in everyday conundrums. The ones that land you in the thick of semi (or full-blown) awkwardness, or maybe, the doghouse. 

    So, we turned to Simon Collins, the
     dean of the School of Fashion at Parsons, who after six years in his plum perch, just announced plans to step down at the end of this year. Translation: More time to wax poetic on what he's learned after three decades (!) of Fashion Week.



    Q: This is nearly your 30th year attending Fashion Week. Tell us about show etiquette, shades vs. no shades, seat assignments, et al.


    My first Fashion Week was London September 1985, and, yes, I was a child prodigy in case you’re wondering how I’ve kept my boyish good looks. Bodymap, John Galliano, Katharine Hamnett, and Parachute are the shows I remember most clearly. I was mesmerized by Bodymap models lying on the runway and rolling down its length. Helen Terry singing a capella. Random celebs upping their cred with catwalk cameos. London couldn’t have cared less about global fashion and corporations.

    Since then I’ve wandered in and out of more global Fashion Weeks than it would be polite to mention. Along the way I’ve picked up one or two tips that help me get through the beautiful punishment that is the fashion circus.

    First and foremost: Prosecco is nothing less than headache in a bottle, so don’t drink it. What’s that got to do with runways you may wonder? Well, the fact is most of the important conversations take place at the after-party and that’s where you encounter Satan’s sparkling terror. Only drink Champagne.

    Take off your sunglasses before the show starts because you are not Anna Wintour. Are the lights too bright for you? Do you prefer muted colors? Or do you have a massive, epic, cataclysmic hangover? The latter night gives you a pass; the former two, no.

    If you don’t have a front-row seat then hang around 'til 90 percent are seated, the PRs will then be poised to "fill in" seats and you can slip your perfectly trousered behind down next to the best looking person in the room. And if you get busted, try saying "one of the PRs told me to sit here," and then move immediately. It’s work and you have to respect that.

    There are some PRs who can tell me to get up and go home, and I will do just that, because I know they have my best interests at heart. There are others for whom I won't give the time of day. If you’ve seen the moment in the Bill Cunningham documentary where he gets denied entry outside a Paris show then you’ve seen bad PR in action.

    And so to the subject of seatmates. I’ve had noisy ones, pushy ones, stinky ones, striking ones, and ones I’d like to strike. A particularly obnoxious situation is when a current celeb sits two places away from your seat, you get crushed like a beetle in the paparazzi chaos, and they are not always polite. Recently I sat next to a young woman only to discover she is the foxy one in this year’s most salacious pop video... my toes were crushed. Then there was the time my seatmate asked me about my job, and ended up inviting me onto her network telly show that evening. Of course, best of all is when you happen to lock eyes across a runway with someone that makes you

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    Opening Ceremony is giving you an all-access pass to NYFW Spring/Summer 2015. This season, we're doing things a little differently—with just the show essentials and backstage highlights. Above, a dispatch from today's Spring/Summer 2015 Luar Zepol show.

    Want more from New York Fashion Week? Stay up-to-the-minute on S/S 2015, right here.



    Photos by Dom Smith
    A male model getting his hair done before the show Luar Zepol nail detail game is strong. The hair accessories and headpieces truly stole the show. Backpacks as jackets!Metal clasps, details, and grommets, oh my!A new interpretation of the duck-toe shoe 

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    It was the statement staple of the season. Fashion mavens and street-style bloggers everywhere couldn't get enough. Yes, we're talking about the the Kenzo Tiger sweatshirt circa 2012. The topper made more appearances at runway shows than Anna Wintour—and continued to run the fashion game for numerous seasons after. No surprise there—Kenzo is known for producing eye-catching, statement-making, and well, iconic pieces that stay on the mind and body long after they're purchased.  

    And this season is no exception. Meet Kenzo's Icon collection, which includes style variations on the Tiger sweatshirt, Logo sweatshirt, and Eye sweatshirt. There is a Kenzo item for every situation. Feeling a little ferocious? Complete your look with a Kenzo Tiger sweatshirt. Need something to snuggle up in this fall? The Kenzo Eye sweatshirt should most definitely fix that. 

    Grab your Kenzo Icon sweatshirts before they sell out. You'd be surprised by the world's Susie Bubbles and Man Repellers' tiger-like reflexes.

    Shop all Kenzo men's and women's 



    Tiger Icon Sweatshirt in black Kenzo Tiger Icon Sweatshirt in medium greyEye Icon Sweatshirt in moss green Eye Icon Sweatshirt in medium grey Tiger Icon Sweatshirt in moss green Kenzo Logo Icon Sweatshirt in medium grey 

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    Opening Ceremony is giving you an all-access pass to NYFW Spring/Summer 2015. This season, we're doing things a little differently—with just the show essentials and backstage highlights. Above, a dispatch from today's Spring/Summer 2015 Calvin Klein show.

    Want more from New York Fashion Week? Stay up-to-the-minute on S/S 2015, right
    here.

    Shop men's Calvin Klein
    here. Women's Calvin Klein Collection RTW in stores now
    Photos by Dan Lecca, courtesy of Calvin Klein

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    Not too long ago, we walked by Milk Bar's Carroll Gardens outpost to see Biggie's face drawn in chalk, with "MO MONEY MO MILK" scrawled above his crown and these wise words: "If Biggie was $till alive, he'd be $ippin on cereal milk & munchin compost cookies." Sounds about right. The much-hyped cookie has gained a cult following with its unusual ingredients—think potato chips, chocolate chips, and coffee grounds baked into an incredible dessert. 

    To get in the spirit of today—Chocolate Milkshake Day!—Milk Bar owner and chef Christina Tosi showed Opening Ceremony a new take on the classic chocolate milkshake—with bourbon and Frangelico. "Like all things dessert related, I love looking at the classic form and reinventing or challenging what it can be," Tosi said. "In this case, I've combined an ice cream cookie sandwich and milkshake." Yes, we'll listen to the woman who introduced the world to Crack Pie, and recently partnered with model Karlie Kloss on these insane Coco Kookies

    Check out the step-by-step recipe GIFs, shot at Milk's Williamsburg location, and the two (surprisingly simple) recipes below. 



    Compost Cookie Shake
    Makes 1 (12 oz.) shake

    1 cup Compost Cookie Soft Serve Ice Cream
    Generous splash of milk
    2 oz. simple syrup

    Measure all ingredients into the pitcher of a blender. Blend on high for 1 minute.


    Compost Cookie Fancy Shake 
    Makes 1 (12 oz.) shake
     
    3/4 cup Compost Cookie Soft Serve Ice Cream
    1 oz. bourbon
    1⁄2 oz. Frangelico
     
    Measure all ingredients into the pitcher of a blender. Blend on high for 1 
    minute. 
     
     

    Is your mouth watering yet? GIFs by Cynthia Chung

    Load up on Compost Cookie Soft Serve Ice Cream.

    The kid-friendly shake requires 1 cup of ice cream, while the alcoholic version only requires a 3/4 cup. 

    Add a splash of milk and simple syrup. 

    Or for the fancy version, add bourbon and Frangelico. 

    Blend together.

    Drizzle chocolate syrup for effect. 










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    "They like to eat their plates of mixed rice with their hands and place their legs up on the bench; they don't mind getting dirty and sweaty on the street," Hartono designer Sherly Hartono explained. "After the shoot, [they] smoke clove cigarettes."

    While Hartono's description might sound like an opening-day patio scene at a Williamsburg Chipotle location, she's actually referring to the daily habits of the working-class men (and models of the Hartono lookbook) known as abang abang in her home of Jakarta, Indonesia. The designer, who moved from Indonesia at age 12 before attending Central Saint Martins for fashion design, relocated back to Indonesia two years ago and reimmersed herself in culure before creating her debut menswear line.  

    The Fall/Winter 2014 Hartono collection is separate from any other genre-bending menswear brand out there right now. The designer accurately describes the aesthetic as "slouchy elegance" and aims to prove that this season's Hartono pieces are prime examples of a truly day-to-night transitional collection. Exaggerated hemlines, the baggiest wool pants you've ever experienced, and sporty turtlenecks evoke the essence of Hartono, with the hardworking abang abang workers as the surprisingly stylish focal point. "Their jobs require them to stay outdoors all of the time, so they tend to dress for comfort and practicality. They like to wear easy, casual, oversized clothing during the daytime and they wear tight tops or put on a blazer when they go out to meet friends," Hartono explained. "Because they live so far away from the fashion world, their style becomes truly unique."

    Click through our selection of photos from the Hartono Fall/Winter lookbook and shop the collection here


    Looks from the Hartono Fall/Winter 2014 lookbook. Photos courtsey of Sherly Hartono 

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    Opening Ceremony is giving you an all-access pass to NYFW Spring/Summer 2015. This season, we're doing things a little differently—with just the show essentials and backstage highlights. Above, a dispatch from Wednesday's Jeremy Scott show. Watch this space for a backstage video interview with the designer, coming soon!

    Want more from New York Fashion Week? Stay up-to-the-minute on S/S 2015, right here.



    Photos by Bruce Thierry Cheung and Andinh Ha
    Miley Cyrus, who designed the accessories
    Michelle in Jeremy Scott FW14
    2 Chainz

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    Pop culture has recently become hyperattuned to the word "feminist," reshaping a title that was once taboo into something... stylish. This isn't a bad thing—the more young women hear about feminism, the more they will assess how to navigate the world as a girl, and then as a woman. 

    Of course, there's a clear distinction between calling oneself a feminist and actually being a feminist. My dear friend Chloë Sevigny (who knows something about entering the pantheon of so-called "stylish" icons) is an excellent example of the latter. 

     
    Yesterday, I attended the Chloë Sevigny for Opening Ceremony Spring/Summer 2015 luncheon, co-hosted by editor Adam Rapoport and the rest of the Bon Appetit gang as part of the magazine's Feast or Fashion series. She's a longtime collaborator of ours (her first collection debuted at Opening Ceremony in 2008), and this time, her inspirations included everything from the film Heathers to Yohji Yamamoto, Harujuku Girls, Rihanna, and Haley Wollens (who styled the show). The biggest influence was the idea of going back to school, and schoolgirl uniforms—specifically those worn by the girls of Grace Church School that played around Chloë's old neighborhood in the East Village. Think a checked suspender-and-pleated mini number, a baby-blue apron dress with polka dot crepe, a slouchy pinstripe cropped overall, and a plaid oversized blazer à la 1988 Shannen Doherty.  

    For the presentation, Chloë wanted to "celebrate girlhood in all its optimism, discovery, awakening, awkwardness, and absurdity," she later told us. So, she called on two of her favorite artists and practicing feminists, Lizzi Bougatsos and Agathe Snow, to provide the installations that decorated The High Line Hotel—an impressive ice sculpture carved into sharp scissors, blown-up cucumbers and baguettes wrapped in rope and bits of colorful scrap fabric. As guests like Sally Singer, Suzy Menkes, and Kim Gordon nibbled on pork chops and corn succotash whipped up by Roberta's (thank you, Chef Mirarchi, for making us believe in roasted peaches again), a talent-slash-variety show weaved its way into the event—all presented by a carefully selected group of talented young girls from 11 to 22 years old. Performances ranged from original poetry recitations and a masterful operatic star, to a petite baton twirler performing to a duo singing The Velvet Underground's "I'll Be Your Mirror." The pièce de résistance, if we had to choose, was the spelling bee, where our champ handled words like "feminism," "neurotic," "chanterelle," "grosgrain," and "progesterone" with aplomb. 

    While chatting with Chloë after the show, she cited a statistic from the Geena Davis Institute, recently mentioned in the New York Times piece “Sugar, Spice, and Guts.” The study looked at 5,554 “distinct speaking characters” in over one hundred family movies released betwe

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    To celebrate the start of London Fashion Week, we invited East London-based NewGen designer Faustine Steinmetz to create an exclusive window installation, showcasing key elements of her Spring/Summer 2015 collection, for Opening Ceremony Shoreditch.

    Check out her stunning work in the pictures, and read our interview with the design darling, below. 

    Shop all Faustine Steinmetz here


    SHAWANA GROSVENOR: Can you talk me through the ideas of deconstruction that inspired your exclusive window installation at OC Shoreditch?
    FAUSTINE STEINMETZ: This season, I focused on different ways to make the same pieces over and over again, and to do that I simply went back to the roots of the fabric. For instance, a few of the outfits we made for the show are entirely made of recycled denim. We basically unraveled jeans until it was a big pile of yarns and remade it into completely different items by hand-weaving it back into lots of different fabrics by felting it and fraying it.

    Have you always been fascinated by denim... even as a child?
    I don't so much remember wearing it but I do remember cutting it to pieces and experimenting with it. The back pocket would become a bag, the hem was the strap, the waistband would become a headband; there were loads of very bad ideas like this! The worst one was definitely the day I decided to cut a hole in the crotch to transform a pair of jeans into a denim jacket. These experiments came to an end when my parents realized where all the garments they bought for me ended up.

    Do you have a specific person in mind when you are designing a collection?
    No not at all—the thing I always wonder is "Would I wear that?" Every time I have an idea, I have to think why would I wear it before going ahead. That's an essential step in my work process—an auto-censor pretty much.

    As London Fashion Week is fast approaching, what is your vice when preparing for a show?
    I usually become a smoker for the two weeks proceeding Fashion Week—and loads and loads of Pepsi Max and guarana to stay awake.

    Where do you go to unwind after LFW?
    Something calm! The noise of the looms drive me mad, all this wood banging two or three times per minute for months! I have been in the studio for the whole summer, even on the weekends. I need some fresh air, so after the show I am bringing my friends to the rooftop of the Boundary. I cannot wait to have a glass of wine and catch up with them!



    Faustine Steinmetz' new installation for OC Shoreditch. Photos by Toni Hollowood 
    Made entirely of 100% recycled denim, the designer unraveled jeans until it was "a big pile of yarns." 

    OC Shoreditch carries the designer's current Fall/Winter 2014 collection, seen in this picture—handwoven boucle and denim jackets. 

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    Opening Ceremony is giving you an all-access pass to NYFW Spring/Summer 2015. This season, we're doing things a little differently—with just the show essentials and backstage highlights. Above, a dispatch from Devon Halfnight Leflufy's Spring/Summer 2015 show.

    Want more from New York Fashion Week? Stay up-to-the-minute on S/S 2015, right
    here.

    Photos by Rachel Chandler 



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    On Sunday we made a one-act play for my friend Humberto’s company, Opening Ceremony. The idea was to do a play instead of a regular fashion show during Fashion Week, and, miraculously, we were able to do it at the New York Metropolitan Opera House. (Thank you, Peter Gelb and everyone at the Met!) Also, this week my dear friend Karen is putting out her first solo album of precious, personal love and heartache gems titled Crush Songs. They are songs made so intimately and spontaneously alone in her bedroom a few years ago that they feel more like unguarded whispers from her heart than a traditionally produced album. So on Sunday, during a ten-minute break as we were rehearsing and lighting at the Met, we made a very impromptu "music video” for Karen in the spirit of her album. It just seemed like if you have the Opera House, that song, and Elle Fanning together, you shouldn't let the opportunity go by. So we made this as a surprise gift for Karen to congratulate her on her album. She is going to see this for the first time as you do. I hope you enjoy.

    Peep our
     SS15 collection on Elle Fanning in the video! Read more about 100% Lost Cotton here

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