Articles on this Page
- 07/22/14--21:00: _Costume Drama: Emma...
- 07/28/14--21:00: _Role Play, Anyone? ...
- 07/23/14--21:00: _To Have & To Hold: ...
- 07/23/14--21:00: _London Calling: Ope...
- 07/23/14--21:00: _Tipsy And Tan: The ...
- 07/23/14--21:00: _Belgian Slang Dicti...
- 07/23/14--21:00: _Most Wanted: Thierr...
- 07/23/14--21:00: _How To Not Have You...
- 07/23/14--21:00: _All Together Now: S...
- 07/23/14--21:00: _For The Ladies: Alt...
- 07/24/14--21:00: _The Artist Currentl...
- 07/24/14--21:00: _Ready To Dance This...
- 07/24/14--21:00: _Storming Times Squa...
- 07/23/14--21:00: _Designer's Diary: F...
- 07/24/14--21:00: _The Look: Flume
- 07/24/14--21:00: _Week In Haiku: July 21
- 07/27/14--21:00: _Charm School: Carve...
- 07/27/14--21:00: _This Must Be The Pl...
- 07/27/14--21:00: _Searching For Porn?...
- 07/27/14--21:00: _A London Art Collec...
- 07/22/14--21:00: Costume Drama: Emma Stone's Flapper-Turned-Psychic
- 07/28/14--21:00: Role Play, Anyone? Ammerman Schlösberg Fall 2014
- 07/23/14--21:00: To Have & To Hold: OC Pre-Fall Handbags
- 07/23/14--21:00: London Calling: Opening Ceremony Shoreditch Gets A Design Treatment
- 07/23/14--21:00: Tipsy And Tan: The Clam
- 07/23/14--21:00: Belgian Slang Dictionary - Goesting
- 07/23/14--21:00: Most Wanted: Thierry Boutemy For Opening Ceremony Hats
- 07/23/14--21:00: How To Not Have Your Birthday Party At A Bar
- 07/23/14--21:00: All Together Now: Skinny Jeans
- 07/23/14--21:00: For The Ladies: Altuzarra's First Pre-Fall Collection
- 07/24/14--21:00: The Artist Currently Known As Ai Weiwei
- 07/24/14--21:00: Ready To Dance This Weekend? This Playlist Might Help...
- 07/24/14--21:00: Storming Times Square With Elmo And Naked Cowboy
- 07/23/14--21:00: Designer's Diary: Faustine Steinmetz
- 07/24/14--21:00: The Look: Flume
- 07/24/14--21:00: Week In Haiku: July 21
- 07/27/14--21:00: Charm School: Carven Pre-Fall 2014
- 07/27/14--21:00: This Must Be The Place: Slab City
- 07/27/14--21:00: Searching For Porn? It's Harder Than You Think
- 07/27/14--21:00: A London Art Collective Takes On The Brooklyn Beauty Parlor
On Friday, at a press conference in New York, a journalist asked Woody Allen a question in anticipation of his latest film:
“Why do your protagonists tend to be neurotics who find life meaningless?”
“Why do I find life meaningless?” Allen misheard.
Of course, Woody’s protagonists are him, from Owen Wilson to Cate Blanchett. And his latest film Magic in the Moonlight, in which Colin Firth plays a curmudgeonly magician, is no different. “I was trying to imitate Woody,” Colin Firth admitted. In the film, which will be released July 25, the fresh-faced Emma Stone plays a swindler slash psychic who has duped a wealthy family in the French Riviera into believing she can read minds. Firth intends to rat her out, but ends up falling in love with her. Love, deception, magic, illusion, art––call it what you will––it's the stuff Woody Allen films are made of.
Clothes are another form of deception, and as Emma Stone’s character accumulates stunning 1920s threads from her rich benefactors, she dives deeper into duplicity. Sonia Grande, costume designer for this film as well as Vicky Cristina Barcelona and Midnight in Paris, had just five weeks to put together the soft yet striking costumes, a combination of her own designs plus vintage originals from around the world. We’d happily perform a disappearing act and steal them all.
“Woody Allen's girls are different and, in fact, his heroines are the most complex characters to dress, as if he was asking to double their charm. They are usually women with little make-up and no lipstick. The search for beauty is in other ways,” she said. In one scene, Emma Stone wears a beret and red sailor-inspired dress, not unlike the iconic tie and bowler hat of Diane Keaton in Annie Hall. In another scene, Stone dons a sparkling 1920s ballgown that belongs to the same family as Rihanna’s nipple-baring dress, “an original from that period [that] was bought in London from a collector.”
Grande's list of inspirations for the costumes include, “the photographic work of Jacques Henri Lartigue and Edward Steichen, expressionist painters like Otto Dix, especially for the Berlin cabaret and jazz club, and also Dutch painter Leo Gestel for some of the hats.” 1920s Paris was the setting of a major fashion revolution, especially for women, and Grande says, “sometimes I wonder if talents like Vionnet, Patou, Coco Chanel would have existed without this bustling and overwhelming activity, without the existence of this creative richness, or without this change of mindset that gripped society."
Soft pastels and creamy lace add to the dream-like quality of the film’s French Riviera setting and Emma’s already youthful face looks even younger in the formless dresses with Peter Pan collars and flower-crowned hats. Which made us wish she ended up with the hot, young, eligible bachelor (Hamish Linklater) who serenades her with a ukulele by the pool, instead of grumpy Firth... but that’s another discussion.
Allen’s response to the whole “life is meaningless” question?
“Life is meaningless... it's not a criticism. You’re born, you die, you suffer. You’re gone forever and that’s it. I’ve never found a good solution. The best I can offer is distraction. You can be distracted by your love life, baseball games, movies. That’s all you can do.”
Thanks, Woody. We’ll add beautiful clothes to that list.
Magic in the Moonlight opens Friday, July 25
What do you get when you mix a costume party, a love of video games, and a free spirit? A fantasy-driven collection that is equal parts quirky, thematic, and fun. The designers of Ammerman Schlösberg believe in the stylistic powers of adding a little kitsch to your look. In their latest collection, designers Elizabeth Ammerman and Eric Schlösberg, who have thrived on the idea of “luxury cosplay” (costume play), are aiming to make their brand’s eccentric look more translatable into your everyday approach to dressing.
Choosing the classic video game Soul Calibur from the late '90s as their muse, Ammerman and Schlösberg were inspired by players' ability to customize their characters' looks with no set rules. In addition, they fell captive to the idea of the cute damsel-in-distress with a dangerous dark side. “This season was our fantasy video game assassin girl,” said Ammerman to Purple Magazine.
Featuring a skimpy maid's uniform (MAID APRON DRESS), a Sailor Moon-esque skirt and top, and long mesh gowns calling back to the medieval or Elizabethan period, this collection draws on many diverse themes and time periods—alongside said video game references. But the practicality lies in the basis for which these garments are embellished. A little black dress features white satin ribbons woven throughout. The FUR COLLAR LEATHER TRENCH COAT, which has been trimmed with gold mesh at the hems, gathers into a bow in the back. If that’s not enough, there’s a bright, green fur collar to block out the cold. Yep, practical minds are at ease.
Shop all Ammerman Schlösberg here
Fur Collar Leather Trench Coat in navy/green
Slash N Puff Maiden Dress in black/white
Maid Apron Dress in black/white
Sailor Cropped Top in creme burgundy
Lame Velvet Cropped Top in gold
Slash and Puff Trousers in green white
Ghost Mesh Gown in gold
We gotta hand it to ourselves: OC’s pre-fall bag collection adds the perfect final touch to any summer outfit. The Mini Paloma Tech Clutch is the convenient size for nighttime excursions––drop a lipstick, credit card, and cell phone in it, and hit the road. Plus that hand motif, like an Egyptian hieroglyph, adds a quirky touch and hint of mystery that makes us smile.
Need something a little more multi-functional? The Stamped Calf Leather Izzy Handbag is all-purpose—consider it the Transformers of elegant handbag design. You can wear it as a backpack when you’re sprinting to catch the train, and then a handbag again when you show up to the restaurant. Polished hardware accents plus soft leather... trust us, you don't need to hold anyone's hand—except this one.
Shop all Opening Ceremony handbags here
Opening Ceremony Checkered Suede Izzy Handbag in white
Opening Ceremony Stamped Calf Leather IZZY Handbag in black
Opening Ceremony Stamped Calf Leather Sumi Handbag in black
Opening Ceremony eckered Suede Sumi Handbag in white
Opening Ceremony Paloma Tech Clutch in black
Opening Ceremony Paloma Checkered Tech Clutch in white
Opening Ceremony Mini Paloma Tech Clutch in white
Opening Ceremony Mini Paloma Tech Clutch in tiger red
They say Shoreditch is the place where things happen, so natch, Opening Ceremony is in on the fun. We just opened the doors to our brand-new location in, yes, East London's Shoreditch, at the Ace Hotel.
This is one of the city's most creative enclaves, so who better to enlist for the shop interiors than the renowned British designer Max Lamb? As his first retail project, Lamb incorporated some of his defining design elements. "These platforms are made out of blocks of polystyrene foam, a raw material that I have been working with for the last eight years," he explained to us. "It has this amazing skin color, which for me references the mannequins that are typically used to display product. Mannequins have become something very different in the world; they are now made of all sorts of materials, but traditionally the ambition was always to replicate a human being. So these columns that sit in the windows, these are the mannequins, abstract human beings."
Known for his stunning, one-of-a-kind furniture sourced from natural materials, this time, Lamb also experimented with new elements, like the ripple-effect latex curtain that surrounds the space. "One of my very first sketches was of turning this square space into a round space. So you would have this round curtain cocoon and behind that curtain is all the storage," the designer said. "It gives warmth to the room."
What's more, the clothing rail (which wraps itself around the space) follows the contours of the curtain and is inspired by the blue handrails of the Victoria Line; it was even made in the same factory as those you see on the London Underground. The cash register is made up of panes of glass, which resemble the white-wash effect applied to buildings going through renovation, yet Lamb opted to use a silicone to put his own stamp on this effect. It’s the small details such as these that reflect Lamb's deep, personal connection with his work and which make for a truly exciting setting for our East London location.
As for the shopping—you'll find curated collections by local NewGen designers MARQUES'ALMEIDA and FAUSTINE STEINMETZ, plus exclusive collaborations, including OPENING CEREMONY & MAGRITTE, Thierry Boutemy for Opening Ceremony, and our Pre-Fall collection inspired by all things Belgian.
Nearby? Come and say hi!
OPENING CEREMONY SHOREDITCH
106 Shoreditch High Street
London, E1 6JQ
Photos by Jamie McGregor Smith
In our #ThirstyThursday series, TIPSY AND TAN, we ask consummate mixologists from New York City’s white-hot new restaurants and bars to create OC-exclusive drinks for our readers. Drinking on the job? Don't mind if we do...
The Clam is a sunny neighborhood haunt in the West Village that specializes in—you guessed it—clams. In creating our OC-exclusive cocktail, The Clam’s beverage director David Giuliano challenged himself to create a drink using a relatively staid liquor: Bourbon. His final creation, cheekily titled the “Blushing Cowboy,” is a uniquely seasonal and fruity thirst-quencher made using muddled cherries. We’ll let you decipher the meaning behind the name for yourself.
From behind the bar…
Name: David Giuliano
If this drink had a soundtrack what would it be? “Mammas Don’t Let Your Babies Grow Up to Be Cowboys” by Waylon Jennings
Best place to get day drunk: I like to go to the Boat Basin on 79th Street to drink beers and watch the boats.
Hangover cure: Chef Mike’s Clam Fried Rice
Summer getaway: Every summer I go up to Lake George.
What are some red-light signs that someone’s been overserved? People who have had too much to drink tend to want to buy other people too much to drink.
Exclusive Recipe: The Blushing Cowboy
OC Alcohol Scale*: 5/6
“The only liquor is the bourbon, but it’s 2 ounces.”
4 muddled cherries
2 oz. four roses bourbon
1 oz. lemon juice
12 oz. mint simple syrup
3 dashes of cherry bark bitters
1. Shake and pour into a Collins glass.
2. Freshen ice.
3. Finish a soda water float.
*OC's Alcohol Scale ranges from 1 ("like sippin' from a juice box") to 10 ("take me home—right now").
Want a second round? See more Tipsy and Tan HERE
Photos by Jessica Chou.
Sure, you can order a pommes-frites with curry ketchup and pronounce Dries Van Noten's name without a hitch. But can you really get by in Belgium? Our Slang Dictionary will make sure of it.
Goesting is one of those great words that is impossible to translate literally––and it was voted “most beautiful word” by a Belgian radio station ten years ago. It basically means a "desire" for something: be it food, sex, or watching your favorite TV show. It can be used in a ton of other contexts as well: zijn goesting doen (literally: to do your goesting) means doing whatever you feel like, while zijn goesting krijgen (to get your goesting), is getting what you want.
Example sentence: I really feel like having a beer!/ Ik heb goesting in een pintje!
We'll be rolling out more Belgian slang throughout the summer! Submit your own words to WEBSTORE@OPENINGCEREMONY.US with the subject line "Belgian Slang".
Shop all Thierry Boutemy for Opening Ceremony HERE
As any 11 year old who REALLY wanted Hanson to perform at her birthday party knows, those shindigs could be disappointing. As adults, we suffer from different––if equally buzz-killing––predicaments. Among them: How do you throw a party for yourself that's not going to 1. Trash your home 2. Cost upwards of $1K or 3. Be planted at the same boring bar you go to every weekend?
New Yorkers––with our tiny apartments and high standards for fun––are particularly subject to this conundrum. Luckily, the city also offers a plethora of off-the-path spots to host your birthday. From RVs to photo studios, spas to other people's yards, below are the fruits of this (recently-turned-26-year-old) writers' research. And in case you're curious, she's leaning towards Spa Castle.
Someone Else's Yard: Alas, the LES timeshare garden which rented a patch grass for $100/hour is being turned into condos (gentrification?). But, sites like Airbnb and EventUp are still around to connect those desperate for extra space with those looking to make some cash. It's not always cheap: This 380-square-foot garden in Stuyvesant Heights starts at $277 for every two-hour block. Meanwhile, a picnic in Prospect Park is free, but you might land you a drinking in public ticket ($25). Ah, decisions.
Party Camper/RV: Perhaps the weirdest (if also the coolest?) spot we found in our investigation of alternative party spots is this "Harvey Love Muscle 'The Party RV'," available via Airbnb. Featuring a psychedelic cloud mural and patchwork seats, it just might be worth the $500/night (sober driver included). From what we hear, this is a hippie-friendly rate compared to other party bus enterprises.
Photo Studio/Gallery: If all you want is a white-walled space that's not your white-walled space, lots of photos studios and galleries host events on the side. This studio/galleRY in Bushwick starts at $250/night.
Ginormous Spa: Perfect for anyone still nostalgic for those princess parties you had as a kid, Spa Castle in Queens offers unlimited sauna-ing, steam room-ing, and hanging by the pool in a slightly medieval setting. If you show up with more than ten friends to come, you get ten percent off the $40/person entrance fee.
Gaming: Of all the games old people play at retirement homes, shuffleboard seems like the coolest. This is particularly true when you have your own cabana and court ($50/hour) plus unlimited beer and wine ($20/hour/head) at The Royal Palms in Gowanus.
Hotel Party: OK, so we're betting you can't actually have a rager in one of the rooms of this Rockaway, Queens motel. But, we hear the tavern downstairs is pretty party-friendly, and anyway, you're just a few steps away from the best birthday venue ever: the beach. Rooms from $69/night.
The Royal Palms, a shuffleboard hall in Gowanus, Brooklyn. Photo courtesy of The Royal Palms
Playland Motel in Rockaway, Queens. Photo courtesy o
Shop the look here
Let's just say, Altuzarra isn't lauded by the CFDA and the editrix alike for nothing. The New York-based luxury designer's first-ever Pre-Fall 2014 collection is beyond beautiful—a blend of elegant minimalism, unusual pattern-mixing, and tailored perfection. Or, in the designer's words: "uncontrived."
Think bold, menswear-inspired button-downs paired with ultra-feminine, hourglass pencil skirts. A funky Christmas plaid, even. What's more, there's a concerted sense of play here, like in the CENTAUR LIGHTWEIGHT COTTON BUTTON-DOWN or the ELF VISCOSE SKIRT. And rest assured, while Altuzarra's clothes fall under neatly office dress code, that doesn't need to register as anything but smashing, now does it?
Shop all Altuzarra here
Altuzarra Walkalooza Poplin Sweater in red
Altuzarra Centaur Lightweight Cotton Button-Down in blue/red check
Altuzarra Flame Cashmere Wool Sweater in navy
Altuzarra Djin Stretch Cotton Skirt in blue/red check
Altuzarra Elf Viscose Skirt in navy
For the past couple years, Ai Weiwei has been a fixture in the art world. The Chinese artist, featured in recent documentary Ai Weiwei: The Fake Case, is best known for politically-dissident pieces critiquing his home country. He’s dropped 2,000-year-old Han Dynasty vases, tweeted out photos of his arrest, and filmed a politically-influenced version of Psy’s “Gangnam Style,” all in the name of art. But what about his life prior to international fame?
The BROOKLYN MUSEUM, current home of the Ai Weiwei: According to What? exhibit, recently commissioned spoken word poet KELLY ZEN-YIE TSAI to direct a performative biography of the artist. Tsai's Ai Weiwei: The Seed, which premiered Thursday night, delves into the influencer's own history, including his life as a New York artist. Like Ai Weiwei, the Brooklyn-based, award-winning poet's work heavily expresses the need for change in the cultural and social landscape.
We chatted with Tsai about why Ai Weiwei should truly be considered an Asian-American artist and what surprising things she learned about the artist.
JESSICA CHOU: So you wrote Ai Weiwei: The Seed based off the artist’s own blog posts?
KELLY ZEN-YIE TSAI: They’re pretty much verbatim. I took all these quote extracts, blew them up on 8.5x11-inch sheets of paper, and at our first rehearsal I spread all the papers out on the floor. So imagine this huge space covered with all these quotes about his life. And I told the collaborators to put the ones with emotional heat on one side of the room, and put the ones that don’t on the other.
Was there anything that you wanted viewers to take away from the performance?
Well, it’s always interesting when you think about any artist or activist—they get canonized in a certain way, but your life is as real to you at any other moment as it is when people remember you... Ai Weiwei is so written about, but the majority of that work was from 2009 or 2011. So you have 50 years of life before that, and when I saw the exhibit, I wanted to do a piece that showed that he lived in New York.
It’s almost like you want to bring him into the artist community in New York.
Community isn’t just about who you claim, but who claims you, which I always think about. I would like to claim him as a New Yorker. I would like to claim him as an Asian American; I’m really into understanding the fullness of someone’s life.
Was there anything that you wanted to put into the performance that got cut?
There were tons of stuff. For me personally, coming from the spoken word community, he lived on 3rd Street and he moved here in 1981, and the Nuyorican Poets Café was on 3rd Street. I knew he had interactions with Steve Cannon. Steve, who supported me when I first came to New York, was one of these East Village fixtures who was like, just do anything. Crash here, do a poetry reading, in that spirit, which a lot of people can argue is no longer in the village.
Did you run across anything that surprised you as you were reading Ai Weiwei’s works?
I was so surprised by his love for Andy Warhol. He can be so highly critical, and even though he was critical of Warhol, I really felt almost a dreamy quality to some of the blog entries about Warhol that really surprised me. He talks about Warhol’s work as
This Saturday, Opening Ceremony and MOCA are hosting a party to celebrate the closing of Mike Kelley, a retrospective of the artist's work. Opening Ceremony, who collaborated with MOCA on a line of T-shirts inscribed with the artist's most iconic works, is curating the music at the event with six of our favorite DJs: Jason Yates, FUXUS, Psychopop, Dangel xxx, MR.IMD, and Friendzone. To get you going, they helped us put together a playlist of their favorite songs of the moment, from the heavy '60s funk of "Soul Heart Transplant" to the psych summer vibe of The Growlers to Total Freedom's remix of '90s house classic "Icy Lake." Check it out and get ready for more at Saturday's event!
Saturday, July 26, 7-10 PM
The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA
152 North Central Avenue
Los Angeles, CA
4. "Opposite People" - Fela Kuti
13. "Megatrap (Real Mix)" - Head High
14. "Land, Repair, Refuel" - LNRDCROY
15. "Wake Up" - Lo-Fi-Fnk
16. "It Feels Good To Be Around You" - Yumi Zouma Feat. Air France
17. "Solarflare" (Prod. Friendzone) - Yung Lean
Have you ever taken off your shoes and crawled barefoot in Times Square? No? What about splayed your body across a green screen and then had your larger-than-life image projected onto electronic billboards? Not that either?
This weekend, Spanish artist Daniel Canogar will be filming participants (including Elmo and Naked Cowboy... or YOU) crawling across a horizontal green screen in Times Square. The images will then be projected onto the infamous Times Square LED screens and billboards each night in September as part of a series called Midnight Moment. If you’re still waiting for your 15 minutes of fame, this could be it.
“What have I gotten myself into?” Canogar wondered the previous night in Times Square, a place where things start to get strange once the sun sets.
But the freakout was temporary. In fact, Canogar feels at home amidst the blinding lights of Broadway and giant golden arches––his work often consists of large scale public works. Like the time he hung recycled electronics across the American Museum of Natural History. Or when he painted the vaulted ceiling of a bridge in Madrid with human constellations. “Maybe I’m a megalomaniac," he told us in an interview Thursday. "I feel more comfortable with large scale. I'm better at big. I can easily do Times Square, but a little, small piece is very hard for me... I don’t know exactly why.”
If appearing on a billboard sounds appealing––and there were plenty lined up to participate––perhaps there's a little megalomania in all of us. This writer, for one, thought the crawling experience was fun and surreal (but also wanted to shower immediately afterward).
Considering that the space where these works of art will be displayed is usually occupied by Cokes the size of redwood trees and massive M&Ms, it’s pretty ironic that this prime advertising real estate will be kidnapped by high art. Sherry Dobbin, director of Times Square Arts, referred to it as “a commercial break.” And, indeed, the show is actually presented by the Times Square Advertising Coalition (as well as the Times Square Arts Alliance and bitforms gallery).
Art or no art, some people don’t particularly enjoy the mayhem of Times Square. Dobbin said, “You’re simplifying your experience into one action. All you do is crawl from point A to point B.” Well, when she put it that way, it almost sounded like meditation.
When he was asked to do the project, Canogar's first idea was to incorporate crawling. “I love to see people do something they don't normally do in everyday life. But as infants, we all crawled––the first movement we have in the world is to explore space and crawl away from our mothers. It was our first adventure.”
From crawling away from our moms and dads to crawling up a skyscraper in Times Square, we’ve come a long way. Or maybe we haven’t.
Storming Times Square takes place from July 24-27 from 9 AM - noon and 4 - 7 PM at Duffy Square, at Broadway and 46th Street.
Naked Cowboy crawls across the green screen. Photo courtesy of bitforms gallery
Elmo also participated. Photos by Austen Rosenfeld
Faustine Steinmetz, the Parisian designer who now works out of her East London studio, has quickly gained a cult following for her handwoven, conceptual clothing. (We'd never heard of "mock-blue denim" until Faustine came along.) So, in celebration of our newly-opened Opening Ceremony Shoreditch location, where you can find her couture-like collection, we asked the NEWGEN designer to share a typical day in Whitechapel. Watch out—cute Pom GIF ahead.
6:30 AM: I'm up and out the door for my morning run in the park. I find it is the only way that I don't feel tired all day with having such a crazy schedule. Once I've got back from my run, I grab something quick to eat before me and my dogs walk to the studio. I live ten minutes away, but it usually takes twice as long as it should because Buzz makes us stop every five meters so he can mark his territory! (See Buzz's GIF to the left.)
8:00 AM: When I feel like we need a pick-me-up, I pass by Rinkoffs to get them some treats! RINKOFFS is this old, family-run bakery hidden in the middle of a council estate in Whitechapel. They are really lovely people and they bake the biggest cakes you have ever seen. One day, we bought a birthday cake from one of the girls and it took eight of us—and a week!—to finally finish it.
9:00 AM: This is when everyone arrives in the studio, and we sit down to talk about what we need to get done that day. Right now, we are in the middle of making the new pieces for our Spring/Summer 2015 collection, so most of our talk is related to that. Once we have finished the meeting somebody chooses the music and we get to work (we love Christine and the Queens).
10:00 AM: Emails!
1:00 PM: I really like to try get out of the studio at lunch time with my diary and my studio manager. I tell him all my worries about planning and time, and the conversation always finishes with, "just take care of the design, make sure you do something amazing and I'll take care of all the rest." It's also quite helpful that he can be bribed to do anything with food.
When I do get to get out of the studio to eat, I like to go to a new burger place which has just opened in Whitechapel called Dirty Burger. The menu is sharp, the beers amazing and the people there are always really nice and smiley which is always a surprise for me being Parisian (no it is not a cliche, our waiters do not know how to smile!). They do an amazing grilled chicken and the best butter lettuce & avocado salad.
2:00 PM: After lunch, I can focus on the next collection and start weaving some samples on a loom. It is definitely my favorite part of the whole process. The best part is that Buzz loves to come on the table and fall asleep on the loom.
5:00 PM: I take a look at everything everyone has done for the day and try to get them to go home. You'd be surprised to see how much time it usually takes me to convince them!
In THE LOOK, OC friends drop by to try on our favorite new arrivals and chat about their latest projects. This week, OC's Ava Nirui interviews Flume.
It's hard to grasp Flume’s success when considering his humble beginnings. Unlike other pre-teens whose after-school priorities were going for a surf or hitting up World of Warcraft on Windows XP, Flume, also known as Harley Streten, was actively experimenting with electronic textures, applying influences from Aqua to Flying Lotus to his distinctive beats and remixes. Today, the Aussie's visceral sound, reminiscent of '90s Bay Area electronica, plays like an aural narrative, with each track inciting strong emotions in the listener.
The trailblazing “bedroom producer” has gone on to become a national treasure within Australia’s flourishing EDM scene, collaborating with prominent international artists including Disclosure, Lorde, and Freddie Gibbs. His self-titled release even trumped One Direction and Justin Bieber on the Australian charts, resulting in a highly entertaining Twitter beef between the gratified young producer and an army of disgruntled teenyboppers. We linked up with the chart-topper at Red Bull Studios, where we reminisced on Aussie slang, Sydney's thriving electronic music scene, and Vegemite cravings.
AVA NIRUI: Congratulations on selling out all of your shows in New York...
FLUME: Thank you!
It’s pretty amazing. So, you played a show last night—how do you think your American fans compare to your Australian fans?
The thing is, the bigger you get in a territory, the broader the audience gets—so basically the USA feels like Australia now. Before, my fans were SoundCloud nerds or real “music lovers.” Now, because we are doing three nights at Terminal 5 playing to nearly 9,000 people, the crowd gets a lot broader.
How do you think being based in Australia has influenced your sound? Do you think it was challenging breaking into the international scene?
Well, I live in the equivalent of Venice Beach, a suburb called Manly, in an area called "The Northern Beaches." It’s a beach just outside the city, so I’m not in the center of the city, where there’s music everywhere. I was always online listening to a lot of dance and electronic music in general, and the fact that there wasn’t a strong scene meant that I just did my own thing, instead of trying to fit into a sound.
And do you think you had any musical inclinations when you were growing up in Australia?
Yeah, I used to always listen to really bad music. I had this compilation CD called Skitz Mix, and it was like “happy hardcore” style. Just super-fast, really bad stuff.
Do you remember your first CD?
I do. [Laughs] Remember Aqua? That was the first CD I bought, with my own money! And, I remember also buying Daft Punk’s Homework for my friend’s ninth, [then I] branched out and listened to all sorts of stuff.
What sort of artists are you currently influenced by, Australian or non-Australian?
Right now, I’m listening to this electronic dude, Jon Hopkins. He’s really dark and brooding. I listen to a lot of weird shit.
That makes sense, since you dabble in many different genres, from indie to hip-hop. What is your pref
WEEK IN HAIKU is a week in review for the well-dressed––and the well-versed.
Spend the night in a
tipi, chill with a baby
goat––vacay is here.
Easy, breezy, and
beautiful, cling-free garments
are summer must-haves.
Calling all dino
devotees! These aren't real but
they're big and scary.
Pop pop pop! OC
has a pop-up in London.
So, head on over.
Day in the life of
weaver woman, jean genius
OC's own Faustine.
Clockwise, from top left: London Calling: Opening Ceremony Shoreditch Gets a Design Treatment; A Breeze: Sexy Dressing That Doesn't Cling; Fossil Watch: A Day With the Dinos; 6 OC-Approved Summer Getaways, The Hamptons Not Included
Our favorite back-to-school looks come via Carven's Pre-Fall 2014 collection. The label's ingenue is back, but this time, the balance is between sweet and smoking-gun sass—fitting, as designer Guillaume Henry was inspired by Bonnie Parker a la Faye Dunaway.
A simple button-down has a wild dècolletage cutout and a camel coat-turned-cape (inspired by military uniforms) has dramatic oversized lapels. Toggle-rope accents give the collection a nautical feel, and those navys, whites, and beiges pair perfectly with orange and red autumn leaves. And a hot chai. (And, most importantly, without that fatal Bonnie and Clyde ending.)
Shop all Carven HERE
Caban Wool Duffel Coat Cape in beige
Caban Wool Duffel Coat Dress in navy
Carven Poplin Cut-Out Shirt in white
Caban Wool Pleated Skirt in navy
To this jaded New Yorker, California has no shortage of breathtaking views. Hell, just the sight of lawns in Los Angeles are enough to make you drool, never mind the palm trees and the ocean. But the sun-drunk glamour of Los Angeles doesn’t even come close to the weird, otherworldly beauty of Slab City, an unincorporated speck in the corner of the state. Just 45 miles from Mexico and 90 from Arizona, it is a world away from LA. Slab City is where people go to escape society, and there are a lot of people here.
The Slabs started life as Camp Dunlap, a World War II-era Marine base where they tested bombs. By the mid-'50s, the government had closed the base and ordered that the buildings be demolished, leaving behind their concrete foundations, the slabs. By the mid-'60s, the restless found this empty base and turned it into a new Eden, albeit one with no running water, electricity, bathrooms and garbage collection. Still, RVs and campers started showing up by the hundreds, and soon the Slabs became a haven for hippies, outlaws and artists. A lot of them never left.
So you take the 10 West out of Los Angeles, preferably early in the morning, and just keep going. Go past glitzy Palm Springs and hip Coachella to Route 111, or Grapefruit Boulevard. It’s a desert highway that looks straight out of an old Roadrunner cartoon, except the first few miles are irrigated, and there are acres and acres of grapefruit farms. The incredible citrus smell stays long after the groves disappear. Next come the windmills. Silently arcing by the hundreds, they look like bleached manmade redwoods against the mountains. Then comes the Salton Sea, a salt lake where nothing grows, the beaches are covered in the bones of long-dead fish, and the salt hangs like a vail in the otherwise endless sky. Make a left in Niland, and three miles past the burned out Roman-columned bank, Salvation Mountain appears.
In the '80s, Leonard Knight, a Korean War vet with a wild religious streak moved into a ’53 Chevy truck at the Slabs and built Salvation Mountain, a bizarre and astonishing monument made out of hay, adobe, and layers of Day-Glo latex paint. Like a giant Candy Land board in the middle of the desert, Salvation Mountain radiates against the rust-colored soil and fried scrub brush. Just beyond it are the psychedelic murals on the remains of the base’s water tanks, and the hot springs, where the water stays at 100 degrees year round.
Today, snowbirds, drifters, vacationing families, and Mad Max-fetishizing punks are visiting, taking pictures, and talking with the locals. The citizens of the Slabs couldn’t be friendlier. There’s still no electricity, water, or bathroom, but there is a cafe, library, bar, and radio station, all solar, wind, or propane powered. Slab City is like nowhere else on earth, yet it is so incredibly, palpably California. You can’t make it up and you can’t have it anywhere else—you just need to be there and see it.
Read more summer travel stories HERE
Salvation Mountain, Leonard Knight's life-size Candy Land board. Photos by James Derek Sapienza
The scenic Salton Sea.
Life in Slab City hasn't changed in five decades. There are re
When it comes to porn, the offerings are seemingly endless, varied, and evolving. Shouldn't the keywords we use to find it be, too? Fiona Duncan makes her case.
Sometimes, when two people love each other very much but have no physical relationship (different cities, different proclivities), they will join thumbs to screens to lay bare their individual sexual queerying in an ongoing iMessage conversation.
This article was conceived in cellular.
Chris Randle started it. The NSA knows how the exchange began. My mammal memory only preserved this one thrust: Chris and I were going back and forth, as is common, on the specifics of desire, when he, less generic in his gaze than me, expressed hurt at how bigoted the tags that blanketed streaming porn sites were. Labels like “ebony” and “shemale” (his preferences, in other words). Such terms, Chris remarked, aren’t just isolated insults, but product and proof of a pervasive racism and transphobia within porn, and media, at large.
Words mean different things in different contexts. Pornography is a context—an industry, communications technology, and culture. A set of private and public experiences. Chris’ sensitivity to tags I’d always glossed over in my search for teenage, redhead, natural, etc., triggered a new POV in me: I couldn’t not see the words around the stream. Turned on to the tags framing my fapping stimuli, online pornography, which once seemed infinite in its offerings, started to feel limited.
Alerted to these words, more questions came. Like: What falls between the cracks of common porn hub categories like BBW, MILF, Asian, Japanese, Twink, and Creampie? Why these words? Does anyone self-identify with them? Might new terms breed new desires?
To the last question, porn star and writer Stoya (self-described on Twitter as “Incendiary. Quixotic. Sassy.”) would say yes. Stoya advocates for “all words. ALL THE WORDS.” She believes we need specificity. “At the doctor,” she told me, “we should be able to distinguish between our vagina, the clit, inner and outer labia.” Copulating, we must communicate: talk to avoid trigger words; talk to inspire desire, to open up and explore. “I’ve even argued for the use of the word kitten,” she said. “Because if you are the kind of person that is going to say, 'Yes, fuck my kitten,' you should—it’s an indicator of what kind of sex the other person is in for.”
Context, Stoya stated, is paramount. She’s not going to run her dirty mouth at the grocery store like she will at work. And, if a familiar calls her a “whore” in a consensual sexual setting, that’s very different than an anonymous on the internet blasting the same.
Many of the words I asked Stoya about are, she said, standard in her trade. For instance, "creampie" (also known as “breeding” or “seeding” in a homosexual context) is often used on porn sets, “as much as 'DP,' because both determine what a talent will get booked for; these are acts which require specific consent.”
Christopher Zeischegg, aka Danny Wylde (whom you may recall from the Lindsay Lohan and James Deen threeway scene in The Canyons), echoed Stoya on this: words like "creampie," he hears all the time, “as they define what needs to be accomplished in the scene.” Labels like "ebony,"
A haircut is a powerful thing: it can get you a date, add or subtract minutes from your morning routine, change the shape of your cheekbones, or (if you’re Jared Leto) spark a worldwide ombré mania. According to a new exhibit, it's also a reflection of your identity. Queenies, Fades, and Blunts, a pop-up art show Saturday in Greenpoint organized by London collective the LONELY LONDONERS, brought together work modeled off beauty parlors and barbershops, aiming to examine what grooming habits and beauty spaces say about culture.
Three kids from London probably aren't who you'd expect behind a barbershop-themed exhibit in Brooklyn. But the Lonely Londoners, whose name comes from Trinidadian author Samuel Selvon's 1956 novel, are more interested in breaching cultural boundaries than adhering to them. "The exhibit is also about the experience of being queer in a barbershop," said Kareem Reid, one third of the collective. As for the exhibit's name? "'Queenies was our way of remixing and making new an older gay slang term," Kareem explained. "'Fades' is a reference to barbershop fade. And "Blunts'..." he trailed off, laughing.
Kareem, who finished his university film degree last year, met fellow Lonely Londoner Rianna, a writer and feminist activist, and Pelin, a foodie who studied international development, the way lots of artists do today: on Tumblr. All in their early twenties and the children of first- or second-generation immigrants, the three finally met in person at a meditation class after following each other's accounts for years. Since, the collective––which actually prefers the label "art house" in tribute to ballroom culture's houses––has organized film screenings, group shows, and performance pieces on topics like the racial experience of albino families in Puerto Rico and rising unemployment among UK youth. Queenies, Fades, and Blunts was their first project in NYC, and next month, they'll be turning it into a zine.
In an age when it seems like every 20-something artist is part of a COLLECTIVE, it's refreshing to find one based not only on aesthetic similarities but shared political goals. "Our work is based on real aspects of culture and trying to make things as unpretentious as possible," said Kareem. "We all need to get our hair cut. We all need to get our nails done. Everybody wants to look pretty––everybody can relate to that."
Read more about the upcoming Queenies, Fades, and Blunts zine on the Lonely Londoners' blog
An illustration by Mojuicy (Mohammed Fayaz) from Queenies, Fades, and Blunts. Photos courtesy of the artists
A screenshot from a video Kareem Reid, one third of the Lonely Londoners, created for the exhibition
The Lonely Londoners: Rianna Parker, Pelin Keskin, and Kareem Reid. Courtesy of the Lonely Londoners Tumblr