Christopher Kane Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

June 15, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

≪ Previous: Behind The Scenes With Thierry Boutemy

Remember the flipbook inspiration of the fluttery, multi-layered dresses that closed out Christopher Kane's Fall/Winter 2014 women's collection? The designer was so drawn to the aesthetic that he continued it on the graphic prints of his Spring/Summer 2015 menswear, turning it into abstract color-blocking and undulating pinstripes across sweaters, T-shirts, and button-downs. Kane's no stranger to recycling what works—the safety-buckle closures seen on the leather bags were introduced in his very first collection and have made cameos in several collections since. Neon colors and sheer raglan sleeves aside, the look this season could be considered a hyper-modern version of the sardonically put-together Teddy Boy heroes, with double-breasted suit jackets, trimly tailored trousers, and two-tone lapels with a printed twist leading the charge of Kane's menswear redux.

Savile Row influences appeared as well, with a warm-grey tone and workwear-esque oxfords adding a touch of British tradition. His previous men's collections focused primarily on printed jerseys and sweats, so upon viewing this expanded line-up, we were struck (but not surprised) by how seamlessly he transitioned into his own unique brand of menswear. It's exciting to see the designer take his penchant for unusual but wholly timeless creations and explore the masculine side of it. Perhaps with this paper-inspired collection he's going to turn the page on the classic men's wardrobe.

E-mail ONLINE@OPENINGCEREMONY.US to be notified when the SS15 collection arrives at OC!

Photos courtesy of Christopher Kane

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J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

June 15, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Marques'Almeida Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

≪ Previous: Christopher Kane Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

Now backed by LVMH, J.W. Anderson needs to make bigger, bolder statements. And there’s no doubt about it: The J.W. Anderson man is confident in himself as told by this hyper-sexualized Spring/Summer collection. Navel-baring vests and bare-chested ensembles left little of the male anatomy to the imagination, all the while giving the designer ample opportunity to exercise his creative tailoring.

Boxy, knitted vests opened the show, and were paired with loose suit trousers and bouncy-soled leather slip-on shoes. Textile designer James Allen was responsible for the knitted fabrications, creating tapestry-like scenic British river landscapes that Anderson rendered into simple, structured tabards.

Next, classic navy pinstripe silk fabrics made up manly jumpsuits (or what appeared as jumpsuits and were otherwise shirts tightly tucked into matching pinstripe pants). It was here that Anderson’s innovative tailoring took shape. Giving us a new take on the three-piece suit, an apron-like addition made up the final component in the pinstripe combo, one that we’re more accustomed to seeing on baristas and waiters rather than catwalk models.

To follow, ‘70s-style striped materials made up similar ensembles, before purple and ecru chest-baring jackets teamed with loose pants stormed the runway. Simple, tailored shapes got the creative treatment with lapel edges that were left raw, fraying, and exposed.

The idea of sexuality was taken to an all-time high with knitwear's über-skimpy shapes. Chunky knitwear was shrunken, so much so that tight-fitting vests barely covered both nipples whilst zip-fronted cardigans revealed the navel and pecks. Would guys wear these? Some might. Others might leave them, investing instead in the silk tailored pieces or modest slim-fit knitted polo shirts that followed.

What we loved most was the innovation in design elements with novel silhouettes utilizing knots. Just as we used to tie our school sweatshirts around our waists in order to free our hands for chasing the boys, Anderson tied his upside-down and around models' shoulders, to fashion vests with gaping sides and off-the-shoulder necklines.

Shirt collars were different, too. Somewhere between a cowl collar, a shawl neck, and a pussy-bow blouse, the collars' elegance contrasted the chiseled structure of the male models' necks. Loosely draped, these ‘scarves’ were used on super slouchy trench coats and silk shirts alike. Will they catch on? We shall have to wait and see.

E-mail ONLINE@OPENINGCEREMONY.US to be notified once the Spring/Summer 2015 collection hits OC!

Photos by Tia Simon-Campbell

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Marques'Almeida Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

June 16, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Moschino Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

≪ Previous: J.W. Anderson Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

The young Portuguese design duo who scored a spot in Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East line-up continues to slay with their creative denim pieces—ones that B*Witched would've been all over. Sticking to their signature raw denim, Marques'Almeida's Spring/Summer 2015 is another strong, creative collection, making the most of slouchy silhouettes, proportions, and—you guessed it—indigo dyes.

Having clambered to the top of the London BFC Sorting Office venue, thirsty show-goers are rewarded with a Red Bull bar which they're abusing, unsurprising given the majority of Fashion East's clientele have just passed the legal drinking age. The crowd here is young, peppered with the odd middle-aged gent, but otherwise we're averaging 21 (if that) with models included. It's an urban space, with people meandering around the four presentations going on at once and models switching in and out of their official roles. In fact, it’s nigh on impossible to work out who is a model and who isn’t.

Marques’Almeida's hard-wearing twill fabrication is now their recognizable signature. You could call it repetitive, but looking around here, half the room is dressed head-to-toe in oversized frayed denim, and you realize it’s clever. A trademark. A cult. The Marques’Almeida club only lets in the kids cool enough to pull off billowing baggy jeans, frayed boot-cut trousers, and denim on denim on denim. It certainly works in here. (I look devilishly out of place in my cigarette pants.)

Marques'Almeida's presentation is staged in a desert scene. Three models sit "denimized" on arid rocks and sand with tumbleweed blowing around their flared jeans. A girl sits in a one-shouldered number with a frayed flounce almost drowning her torso. A boy is nearly swamped by his denim-hooded T-shirt, and the other sits comfortably in his long-line T-shirt and elastic-ankled pants. Backstage, we see the other outfits in a compact collection. There’s more of the same aesthetic, but accompanied with a giant swathe of orange fur; elsewhere there is a standout knitted ‘suit’ in bright yellow. A perfect desert uniform, in our opinions.

E-mail ONLINE@OPENINGCEREMONY.US to be notified once the Spring/Summer 2015 collection hits OC!

Photos by Tia Simon-Campbell

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Moschino Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

June 16, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: The BEST 'Floral' Fragrance (That's Not A Floral Fragrance)

≪ Previous: Marques'Almeida Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

Just when we thought we’d seen Jeremy Scott peak in the world of slogans, he goes and delivers another brand-emblazoned collection for Moschino Spring/Summer 2015. Granted, these brands might not be as recognizable as those infamous golden arches, but nevertheless, the collection is energetic, animated, and colorful.

There’s nothing particularly new here in terms of shapes: Polo shirts are polo shirts, swimsuits are swimsuits, and string body-con skirts are, well, just that. But are we really looking for avant-garde silhouettes from Moschino? Instead, Jeremy Scott ups the ante on fun. This is all about the sexy, sexy '90s. Walking to a club-classic soundtrack, women strut in skimpy triangle bikinis, men bare (almost) all in word-scattered briefs, double denim is rife, and sporty, mesh separates hark back to the nostalgic shapes of yesteryear (i.e. the racerback vest heyday of 1997).

The yellow smiley which we’ve seen creep into more and more collections in recent years (Fyodor Golan can’t let it lie) successfully worked its way into Moschino’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection. On the backs of sweaters, cardigans, briefs, and bomber jackets alike, it accompanies the bright-and-bold flag print which is sure to make every buyer, customer, and fan everywhere feel included. Elsewhere print-wise, Scott gets pun-happy. ‘Fauxschino’ says it all, as does a more than subtle recreation of Louis Vuitton’s famed print. It can’t get more tongue-in-cheek than this.

Remember those Coca-Cola can pencil cases you had when you were in school? They’re back, Moschino style. Scott’s slung them over the shoulder with a fine chain, which, just like the McDonald’s accessories, are sure to sell out. Unsurprisingly, all other accessories bared the Moschino logo, too. From pendants and belts to sliders and crowns, Scott successfully says it loud and proud. And why have one miniature Moschino cross-body bag when you could wear three at once? That seemed to be the logic of the beaming crowd, happy-snapping with their McDonald’s Moschino-covered iPhones, and when Scott takes his walk of honor, there’s an enthusiastic roar of applause.

E-mail ONLINE@OPENINGCEREMONY.US to be notified once the Spring/Summer 2015 collection hits OC!

Photos by Tia Simon-Campbell

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The BEST 'Floral' Fragrance (That's Not A Floral Fragrance)

June 16, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Did You Try It? Absinthe & Black Salt Caramels

≪ Previous: Moschino Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

The last time Opening Ceremony spoke with Fabrice Penot of Le Labo, it was to find out just what they put in those deliciously aromatic candles. But, we also received a lesson in the sensuality and science behind fragrance. It is with that knowledge that we delved into the newest OC-exclusive fragrance, Geranium 30. As part of the Thierry Boutemy for Opening Ceremony collection, Geranium 30 rounds out the head-to-toe floral experience by adding an olfactory punch to the visual and tactile delight. The scent itself starts off as an explosion of myriad florals, transporting you to—as Fabrice puts it—a wild garden in the middle of the city. But, it isn't a floral fragrance, Fabrice insists, in tribute to the way Thierry Boutemy approaches floral arrangements. Read on to find out why.

Shop all Thierry Boutemy for Opening Ceremony MEN'S and WOMEN'S

DANA MELANZ: Let’s start by talking about the new Geranium 30 fragrance. How did that begin?
FABRICE PENOT: We have this privileged relationship with Opening Ceremony, so when you guys came to us and mentioned extending the partnership with Thierry Boutemy into perfume, of course we said okay. Thierry knew already a perfumer—Barnabé Fillion—and they always wanted to work together. We worked on the formula with Barnabé; it was the first time we made a perfume with him and it happened to be a beautiful partnership.

When you create collaborations like that do you bring on a freelance perfumer or work within the company?
They are not really freelancers... They work with big fragrance companies but they get out. In the case of Barnabé, the beauty is that he’s a free spirit. The perfume world is very defined and ordered, so it’s very refreshing to know that somebody like that can chuck that [aspect of] perfume aside.

Do you think you’ll work with Barnabé again?
Maybe. To be honest, we create few new perfumes because we focus on our core collection. But he’s definitely somebody we want to keep in our surroundings. He brings a color to the perfume palette that is really special. In a way, it’s similar to what Thierry brought to the flower world.

That’s awesome. So, how did the creation process go? Did Thierry and Barnabé already have an idea?
Yes, Thierry and Barnabé already shaped the foundation and then we came in and added our vision in terms of ingredients, soul, richness... Everyone was really flexible. There were no egos.

The way we formulated it, the perfume itself has this very artistic, floral arrangement that is very unlikely to happen. Like a wild garden in the middle of the city. We decided to make only 100 bottles of this, which brings a certain impermanence to this perfume that is very linked to the existence of a floral arrangement. Our philosophy has always been Japanese wabi-sabi, which is the beauty of imperfection [and] the awareness of the impermanence of things. What is a more impermanent beauty than an arrangement of flowers? This isn't limited edition to make it special. It's just a tribute to the idea that everything is temporary. I think this is a very spiritual part.

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Did You Try It? Absinthe & Black Salt Caramels

June 16, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: OC Editorial: Thierry Boutemy For Opening Ceremony

≪ Previous: The BEST 'Floral' Fragrance (That's Not A Floral Fragrance)

A new blog series, in which OC staff procures the wackiest, most buzzed about junk-slash-fad food on the global market, then conducts highly professional taste tests.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Jonboy absinthe & Black Salt Caramels
Price: $8.99 at Jonboy Caramels
Quantity: 13-15 caramels in a 4-ounce box
Origin: Seattle, WA
Color: Brown, like Mississippi Mud
Smell: Strong anise

Apologies to Brach's, but this ain't your Milk Maid Caramel. The licorice-and-caramel combo drew hesitation, but it was "surprisingly incredible," prompting a few reviewers to ask sweetly, "Can I have another?" "Small batch sounds yuppie," but these "brown-paper packages," inspired by Scandinavian black licorice, were "insanely delicious," like "stepping into a garden of wild fennel" with "a salty, fantastic kick." And while Washington-based Pacifique Absinthe is listed as an ingredient, "absinthe is nowhere near as good as this candy," leaving one enthusiast to wonder, "How many of these do I need to eat to get drunk?" (The answer is still out there.)

Of course, fine candies are an acquired taste. "So much anise, so much anise," a staffer lamented. "Definitely tastes like that wack-ass black licorice from England," or, as a more refined, accurate palate put it, "ends on a definitively bitter note, but one I'd welcome again."

Photo by Jessica Chou

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OC Editorial: Thierry Boutemy For Opening Ceremony

June 16, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Opening Ceremony Men's Spring/Summer 2015: The Lookbook

≪ Previous: Did You Try It? Absinthe & Black Salt Caramels

Celebrated for his dramatic and daring floral arrangements, Thierry Boutemy has left his print on everything from film to fashion, creating works for OC favorites like Sofia Coppola and Dries Van Noten. Now, the legendary artist's green thumb has taken a transformative step by partnering with Opening Ceremony. Using broken foliage, Thierry produced exquisite collages and designs, which we then printed on ready-to-wear, Vans and Manolo Blahnik shoes, New Era caps, and Tabio socks. We've also joined Le Labo to produce a limited-edition fragrance, Geranium 30. Take a stroll through our floral editorial, then put together your own bouquet of Thierry Boutemy for Opening Ceremony.

View the Thierry Boutemy for Opening Ceremony editorial here | Shop Men's and Women's

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Opening Ceremony Men's Spring/Summer 2015: The Lookbook

June 16, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: The Artist Behind 'I ♥ NY' Says It Works Because It's 'Tight-Ass'

≪ Previous: OC Editorial: Thierry Boutemy For Opening Ceremony

For Men's Spring/Summer 2015, presented at Opening Ceremony in New York last week, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim wished to introduce a tailored, urbane approach to spring dressing. True, there were shorts, but when paired with elongated trench coats, short, cropped jackets accented by long piping down the sleeves, or knitted sweaters, the designers made clear that fusing athleticism with elegance––while playing with gender codes in terms of color and fabrics––was indeed what spring would be all about. “We wanted to embrace cool greys, and a way of doing a light blue that felt really masculine,” said Humberto. “We loved taking pique materials that are often seen in formalwear, and incorporating them into casual elements.”

The collection also reinforced the tropical vibes of the women's Resort 2015 collection that debuted simultaneously: think graphic prints of magnified palm fronds and trippy, contrasting depictions of sea anemones. All in all, it was a brilliant play on masculinity, transforming the traditional into something new and provocative.

Photographed by Arno Frugier

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The Artist Behind 'I ♥ NY' Says It Works Because It's 'Tight-Ass'

June 16, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Sibling Spring/Summer 2015 at London Collections: Men

≪ Previous: Opening Ceremony Men's Spring/Summer 2015: The Lookbook

We would like to ask Milton Glaser to be our best friend—our whipsmart, pink ascot-wearing, Mortadella-eating friend, who, at 84, makes us feel like we've been sleepwalking in comparison. He also happens to be a celebrated American graphic designer, whose portfolio includes "I ♥ NY," Bob Dylan's "Greatest Hits" poster, the DC bullet logo, and more recent work like the Brooklyn Brewery and Jet Blue logos. Oh, and he also co-founded New York Magazine. Another reason we heart him? Don't ever pose the question, "What do you think about graphic design?" because he'll likely tell you that it's like asking, "What do you think about those two wooden chairs?"

We caught up with ~~Glaser~~ our new BFF last night at NeueHouse, before his talk with Steve Hindy of Brooklyn Brewery and moderated by OC friend Spencer Bailey, the executive editor of Surface.

JEANINE CELESTE PANG: As a kid, what was your first fond memory of design?
MILTON GLASER: Every child I knew, who wanted to be an artist, read comic strips. We copied Walt Disney, we copied Terry and the Pirates. That’s how we all learned.

You created the "I ♥ NY" logo in 1977. If you were to reinvent it now, what would it look like?
I wouldn’t reinvent it. If something is doing its work, you don’t change it. It still has energy, it still has juice, it still accomplishes its task. You don’t change while you’re winning.

From the over 400 unique logos and/or poster art in your portfolio, why do you think some seem to "stick" over others?
It does something most people don’t associate with design. It generates a sense of affection between the viewer and the market. And for me these days, generating affection is the key to all of this stuff.

Can you speak to "I Love New York," in particular?
It's the combination of the voluptuous, erotic nature of the heart and the restrictive, tight-ass character of the lettering.

Tight-ass?
It’s kind of anal lettering, isn't it? It's very straight. And, the contrast between the constraints of the black and the voluptuousness of the heart makes it interesting—psychologically.

Your birthday is coming up, on June 26 to be exact! Are you turning 86? What are your thoughts on birthdays?
I’m going to be 85—don’t rush it. I let them go by quickly and unnoticed.

So what is the most exciting thing that’s happening in your life these days?
The most exciting thing has always been the same for me, ever since I was five years old: Thinking of something and making it appear. An act of magic. You think of a bug and you can make the bug. There’s nothing in my life that has been as satisfying.

Well, since you've lived longer than most of us: What is the most surprising thing you've learned in your old age?
Basically, how much people create mischief for themselves i

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Sibling Spring/Summer 2015 at London Collections: Men

June 17, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Nasir Mazhar Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

≪ Previous: The Artist Behind 'I ♥ NY' Says It Works Because It's 'Tight-Ass'

It's early, it's sunny, and we're clambering into the basement of Victoria House. In the past few years, Sibling has surpassed being just a name on the schedule we recognize to being a standout. Known for their creative approach to knitwear, the designers came out with a strong Spring/Summer 2015 collection, slightly darker and more commercial collection.

As the show opened, the first male model stepped out in black crochet trousers, chunky-soled boots, and a patterned denim overcoat. The look was complete with a mohawk and a bone necklace. Patterned denim was a strong theme, until we were greeted with something we knew well: a bright-red, slim-fitting ensemble, knitted from head-to-toe. Now, that's the Sibling that we're used to!

Epic fringing followed suit. From what we're calling "eyelash-knit on speed," to what looked more like über-lengthy chest hair, it's clear the design trio of Sid Bryan, Joe Bates, and Cozette McCreery were having some fun and exploring the scope of their yarns across cardigans, neckpieces, pants, and dresses. Semi-sheer fringed fabrics swayed with vigor around the thighs, and elsewhere, hanging off jackets. There was also the heightened sense of sexuality (we’re seeing a lot of leg and buttock this week), but the overriding vibe of the collection was of a slightly gruesome Neanderthal world. That is of course, right up until the end of the show, when two walking, pom pom-like creatures made the crowd crack up with laughter.

E-mail ONLINE@OPENINGCEREMONY.US to be notified once the Spring/Summer 2015 collection hits OC!

Photos by Tia Simon-Campbell

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Nasir Mazhar Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

June 17, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: THIS Is How You Game The Chelsea Flower District

≪ Previous: Sibling Spring/Summer 2015 at London Collections: Men

Getting into Nasir Mazhar’s show isn't easy. We've got tickets, but the entire street is lined with Nasir's friends, all intent on getting in and being seated-—ticket or none. One thing is clear: Nasir has a LOT of friends.

The show starts and it's much of what we have come to expect from Mazhar: athletic separates, logo-emblazoned waistbands, jock straps, and sporty rucksacks. It’s a stronger version of what we've seen. And, because we've grown used to it, this time it makes us smile wider, appreciating it on a different level and coveting it more. Who could pull off a mesh tee tucked into a pair of baggy, multi-layered sports shorts? Well, just about everyone in the front two rows, whose average age couldn't be more than 30. They're all wearing Nasir-branded hats, headbands, or sweatpants—it's admirable. What is it with cults and these emerging LONDON DESIGNERS?

Chatting with Mazhar backstage, he acknowledges the similarities to the previous season. “But, it's a good short, why would we change it?” he says of the short that’s become somewhat of a calling card. The press release explains that this is “the next step of a vision initially gathered from the dissipated visual language of UK garage.” That, in a nutshell, says it all. It's what we were expecting but more developed and well-executed. Fabrics are richer (silks, fine quilting, pinstripes, and beautiful jacquard), ideas are more complex (shirts with multiple fabrics, and zip-paneled jackets), and design additions give a new air of nobility (cummerbunds with garage wear?).

Accessories also play a dominant role in the collection. Outfits are completed with caps, belts, gym bags, boot bags, holsters, and braces—you name it. Rucksack straps have been idolized, so much so that some aren’t carry sacks at all. Just another addition to the outfit to remind you that, yes, it’s Nasir Mazhar.

E-mail ONLINE@OPENINGCEREMONY.US to be notified once the Spring/Summer 2015 collection hits OC!

Photos by Tia Simon-Campbell

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THIS Is How You Game The Chelsea Flower District

June 17, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: SANKUANZ Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

≪ Previous: Nasir Mazhar Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

One of the perks to summer in the city—and the offset to unbearably hot weather—is an oustanding abundance of flowers. It seems like everywhere we look, our friends are getting their hands dirty in horticulture and creating breathtaking masterpieces. Taylor Tomasi Hill recently launched her business TTH Blooms; Denise Porcaro of Flower Girl NYC’s LES shop holds instructional arrangement classes; and here at OC, we're fresh off our collection launch with master florist Thierry Boutemy. So, to create your own floral paradisio, here are pro tips on where and when to shop for fresh blooms, supplies, and even faux florals in NYC's Flower District.

WHERE TO SHOP FOR FLOWERS & PLANTS:

1. We love Superior Florist, with its old-New York aesthetic, aluminum countertops, fluorescent signage, and a wall of gourmet candy for gift baskets. Currently operated by third-generation florist Sam Rosenberg, whose family opened shop in 1930, Superior Florist has been in business for 84 years.The store’s buyer, Steve, places a priority on offering American grown products; however, the shop also directly imports rarities from Holland, Ecuador, Colombia, and Thailand.

Insider Tip: Shop after 9:30am for the best selection.

2. Orchids have always been popular, so we suggest turning to Holiday Flower & Plant Inc, a 20-year-old shop with white-brick walls and linoleum floors. The no-frills space focuses on orchids in a multitude of colors and species), as well as potted plants (such as ferns, bonsai, palm). A single stem orchid starts at $12 and generally ranges up to $25. The shop also offers a wide selection of potted Topiary trees (typically ranging from $35 to $125).

Insider Tip: This store gets busy, so visit after 12pm to receive individual attention. The staff will also help you find the most appropriate flower for any vase you bring in.

3. International Garden, Inc. is a haven for the walk-in retail customer, open seven days a week and offering quick and affordable arrangements produced on-site. Peonies are currently in high demand (starting at $5 a stem), but there are also plenty of outdoor plants to decorate that trellis (or, er, a fire escape).

4. A Rose by Harvest offers all roses, all the time. Roses are examined under strict quality control to extend shelf life, and kept at a controlled “chain of temperature.” The store works in partnership with Dutch associates FSQ (Four Seasons Quality) bringing in worldwide imports from Holland, Kenya, Ecuador, resulting in 300 of the world's finest roses. Expect to spend about $37 for a bundle of 25.

5. Bill’s Flower Market, a fourth-generation, family-owned business, is known mostly by word-of-mouth. You might stumble upon kitschy arrangement accents such as hot-pink flamingos. The shop receives deliveries daily at 3am, and owner Michael prioritizes personalized service and value.

Insider Tip: This is a great place to order chic single-note arrangments, i.e. all daisies, all orchids, all calla lilies—you get it.

6. If

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SANKUANZ Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

June 17, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: How To Look Damn Good (While Camping)

≪ Previous: THIS Is How You Game The Chelsea Flower District

GQ China certainly lived up to its reputation of bringing some of the most interesting and quirky menswear designers to show on the London stage. This season, it brought Shangguan Zhe, the designer behind the young, creative brand SANKUANZ, which is coming to OC in the fall. Hailing from Shanghai, Zhe has previously shown at Shanghai Fashion Week as well as in Paris. Now, in the London arena for Spring/Summer 2015, he delivered a fun, original, and theatrical collection, which kept the audience in simultaneous giggles and awe.

The show opened to cheery, cartoon-like music. The first model stepped out in an all-white ensemble with three-quarter length pants, a long-line sheer tee, a bomber jacket with graphic eyes drawn on the chest, and an LED-grill flashing out of his mouth. Taking a survey of the audience’s reaction, everyone was staring in awe at the models' mouths, absorbed by the flashing lights peeking out from behind the lips.

For the first half of the collection, clinically white, nylon pieces were scattered with bold graphics of everything from anime sketches to Chinese calligraphy, infinity symbols, frightened animals, barbed wire, and ambiguous, scribbled phrases like “Acid Club.”

We caught up with Shangguan after the show, and, along with the aid of a translator, he let us in on his very diverse reference points, which included Japanese manga, boxing fights, teenage street style, and Russian prisoners. Specifically, he told us that the bold, colorful, cartoon eyes came directly from Japanese video games.

“Cutting-edge functional fabrics have been mixed with traditional workwear to create a cross-pollination aesthetic,” read the official press release. The collection featured technical nylon jackets, mesh tees, fur and fringed boxer shorts, printed, baggy vests, and oversized hooded sweatshirts. The palette remained largely restricted to white until a theatrical, exuberant portion of the show, when it switched to black. Models’ faces were veiled with cloth hanging from hats, and their hands were fitted with carved, gimmicky props. Huge talon-like sculptures, wooden lobster claws, and Popeye The Sailor-like fists had the crowd delivering applause.

We asked Shangguan what we could expect from him next. Sighing and looking pretty exhausted, he said, “there would be a much-need break, first.”

E-mail ONLINE@OPENINGCEREMONY.US to be notified once the Spring/Summer 2015 collection hits OC!

Photos by Tia Simon-Campbell

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How To Look Damn Good (While Camping)

June 17, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Belgian Slang Dictionary - Guindaille

≪ Previous: SANKUANZ Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men

Despite our mild obsession with Robert Clergerie's killer metallic-heeled sandals, even we have to admit they would be out of place in the great outdoors. So, what to do when a city gal or guy wants to test out the rough waters of the wilderness?

Unfortunately for newbies, Mother Nature is known to be a fickle temptress, with bright sunny skies one day and scattered thunderstorms the next. We've rounded up the essentials any novice camper would need to hike it out in style: quality layers to peel off or put on at your whim, hats to keep the sun out of your eyes, and, of course, a handy water bottle to keep you hydrated. Now go buy a solid sleeping bag, pack up your truck, and do some exploring.

Go anywhere and everywhere with Opening Ceremony x Teva's Universal Hurricane sandals.

Sure, you might get a few bug bites going bare-legged, but Patrik Ervell's athletic mesh shorts balance preppy and comfortable in a way track pants could never handle. Invest in bug spray.

Start layering with SASQUATCHfabrix.'s CAMOUFLAGE MESH TANK, an airy option for particularly sunny days (and easily packable when you plan to go shirtless).

T by Alexander Wang's Slub Long-Sleeve Tee is the perfect middle layer—light enough to stuff away, but warm enough to handle that breeze.

Of course, to be super prepared, bring along Patrik Ervell's technical knit pullover, with a kangaroo pocket for storage.

The last thing you need when hiking with a full day's worth of supplies in your backpack? Painful underwire digging into your ribs. Start off with Full Court's SPORT TOP for ultimate comfort.

Top it off with Thierry Boutemy for Opening Ceremony's Pastel Composition Mesh tank, ultra-comfortable and beautiful enough to rival the scenery.

Full Court's leggings round off the essentia

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Belgian Slang Dictionary - Guindaille

June 17, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Do Plants Grow Differently To Music? Ask Peter Coffin

≪ Previous: How To Look Damn Good (While Camping)

Sure, you can order a pommes-frites with curry ketchup and pronounce Dries Van Noten's name without a hitch. But can you really get by in Belgium? Our Slang Dictionary will make sure of it.

A guindaille is a party consisting of just two main elements: a bunch of students, and a ton of beer. These parties wouldn’t be complete without the à-fond (bottoms up), the celebrated art of chugging a beer in one gulp.

Example sentence: We’ll meet on Monday for the first guindaille of the year. / On se retrouvera lundi pour la première guindaille de l'année.

We'll be rolling out more Belgian slang throughout the month of June! Submit your own words to WEBSTORE@OPENINGCEREMONY.US with the subject line "Belgian Slang".

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Do Plants Grow Differently To Music? Ask Peter Coffin

June 17, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Behind The Seams: Thierry Boutemy's Wilted Collages

≪ Previous: Belgian Slang Dictionary - Guindaille

“I like the California vibe in art. There’s a lightheartedness,” Peter Coffin told us last night at Red Bull Studios in New York, where a crowd gathered to celebrate the opening of his show LIVING. It’s true, the DeLorean parked in the center of the gallery seemed straight from the west coast, covered with hilarious liberal bumper stickers like “Things Go Better With Kale” and "'Politics is the entertainment division of the military-industrial complex' -Frank Zappa.” Peter Coffin, with his strawberry-blond hair, also looked straight from the sunshine state. "My background is in conceptual art, but I like to call it idea art,” he said between hugs from friends and art collectors who were attending the event.

In one corner, the audience could step into the center of flickering stage lights, ambient sounds, and blowing fans, as if transported inside the heart of a movie. The whole exhibit was smoke and mirrors. Literally. A smoke machine puffed away. Three smooth mirrors spun so seamlessly they appeared to be still. Illusions abounded.

Downstairs was Peter Coffin’s third installment of Music for Plants, a greenhouse where a variety of musicians will serenade the vegetation. Do the plants grow differently to music? “I think they do. There’s scientific research. But, I’m not so interested in evaluating whether it works or not. I’ve set up this system so people can imagine plants growing to music and that’s what I’m interested in.”

Peter Coffin is from Berkeley and his work is informed by new-age California mysticism and the rise and fall of ‘60s counterculture. An alphabet is rendered in a lit rainbow that towers over the show. It’s beautiful, but what does it mean? In the wall text for the show, Mary Margaret Rinebold writes, “The unseen sets of relations between ourselves and what we are looking at, or standing near, actually take the foreground of the scene we find ourselves in, pushing both us––the subjects––and them––the objects––to the periphery.”

Okay, so maybe that doesn’t explain it. “I’m more into catalyzing ideas than dictating them.” Peter Coffin said. “I like the way music works, because it doesn’t need to be explained. I also know what it’s like to dream musically.” Did you dream before the exhibit tonight? “Well, I didn’t sleep very much last night.”

The DJs were just beginning to set up and the Red Bull drinks were flowing. It didn’t look like he’d be getting very much sleep tonight, either.

Through September 16

Red Bull Studios
220 West 18th St.
New York, NY 10011
MAP

Photos courtesy of Greg Mionske / Red Bull Content Pool

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Behind The Seams: Thierry Boutemy's Wilted Collages

June 17, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Simon Says: 'Don’t Trust Online Advice Columns'

≪ Previous: Do Plants Grow Differently To Music? Ask Peter Coffin

Thierry Boutemy's mood board (left, courtesy of Thierry Boutemy & Jérémy Dhennin); Our Thierry Boutemy for Opening Ceremony COLLAGE PATCH LONG SLEEVE CREWNECK and COLLAGE PATCH SKINNY JEANS

Giant floral cutouts are splattered across T-shirts, jeans, and crepe dresses in the Thierry Boutemy for Opening Ceremony collection, all as vibrant as the real flowers themselves. Yet interestingly enough, certain of the flowers the prints were based on were actually past their prime. “[Thierry] really embraced the whole life of a flower,” the OC design team said. At the shoot, Thierry assembled a six-foot tall bouquet comprised of wilted and dying flowers, and the team photographed the bouquet at various angles to create this collage.

For the collage patch long sleeve crewneck, patches were printed and then transferred onto the shirts. “It’s a technique we’re really excited about because you pretty much get photo-real quality, which was the goal from the start,” the design team said. As for the collage patch skinny jeans, the stretch in the denim made the transfer technique impossible. Instead, the patches were printed and then sewn onto the pants. “We really liked the idea of something three-dimensional.”

Shop Thierry Boutemy for Opening Ceremony MEN'S and WOMEN'S

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Simon Says: 'Don’t Trust Online Advice Columns'

June 18, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: A Sexy, Sleek...Humidifier?

≪ Previous: Behind The Seams: Thierry Boutemy's Wilted Collages

Here at OC, we are struck by how often we end up in everyday conundrums. The ones that land you in the thick of semi (or full-blown) awkwardness, or maybe, the doghouse.

So, we turned to Simon Collins, the dean of the School of Fashion at Parsons. Collins recently penned a TOME that explores how and why people get to be so dang successful. Below, Collins lends tongue-in-cheek, Brit-bloke advice to our pain-point questions and social entanglements.

Q: If, in the small recycled circle of online dating you see a familiar face, what do you do? Do you mention it the next time you see that person IRL?

Ah yes, this brave new world of buying expensive dinners for people you don’t really fancy, or pretending that their being ten years older than their profile picture is actually, well, just what you were hoping for. The answer to the question is dependent on gender. Women will file away the target sighting for subsequent use in angry recriminations sometime over the next...forever. Being of a much denser disposition, men will lumberingly forget this juicy morsel when the inevitable argument arises and it will be of no use to them. And so the wheel turns.

If you happen to find yourself out with a new date when an old date spots you, then you should immediately do the following: stand up, shoot your cuffs, button your blazer, and withdraw from the area affecting an air of languid insouciance. Or, you might wish the target well and move on to meet the love of your life.

Q: You give a lot of great advice on what to do. Do you have any advice on what not to do?

Don’t trust online advice columns. Don’t wash your feet with socks on. Don’t forget to call your mum. Don’t vote Republican. Don’t step on the cracks. Don’t forget to floss. Don’t be mean. Don’t eat yellow snow. Don’t cry for me Argentina. Don’t throw stones. Don’t give the oxygen of publicity to things you don’t like. Don’t hold the doors. Don’t waste a single second. Don’t call her back too quickly. Don’t play hard to get. Don’t stop playing. Don’t give up on love. Don’t believe the hype. Don't stop believing. Don’t take my word for it.

Simon Collins, so dapper in Cannes. (New profile pic? We kid, we kid.)

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A Sexy, Sleek...Humidifier?

June 18, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Tipsy And Tan: The Garret

≪ Previous: Simon Says: 'Don’t Trust Online Advice Columns'

If you're anything like us, the first hint of dry air will immediately tighten skin, deepen those wrinkles (wait, what?), and cause that T-zone to flake beyond exfoliation repair. And sure, New York summers are decidedly humid already, but here's to the Los Angelenos, Las Vegans, and all our other desert-bound neighbors looking for respite. And us, the ones who sit strapped to our desks, where the AC blasts high and mighty.

Enter Roolen's Breath Humidifier, which saves us from intrusively clunky water-spouting machines of the past; instead, Breath is both sleek and smart. The one-button operation switches between three modes: low humidity for semi-dry environments; high humidity for desert-like airs; and auto, when Breath decides what's best for the environment—water and energy.

Available in black or white, the gadget stands less than a foot tall but holds up to 3.15 liters of water, keeping a room happily balanced for upwards of 24 hours. An extra bonus point? Rumor has it, keeping more moisture in a room helps get rid of hangovers. We'll buy that.

Photo by Jessica Chou

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Tipsy And Tan: The Garret

June 18, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Behind The Seams: The Beauty In Dirt And Grass

≪ Previous: A Sexy, Sleek...Humidifier?

In our #ThirstyThursday series, Tipsy And Tan, we ask mixologists from New York City’s white-hot restaurants and bars to create OC-exclusive drinks for our readers. Each week this summer, we’ll bring you a splashy concoction perfect for all of your beach bash boozin', as well as some expert advice. Drinking on the job? Don't mind if we do...

No, that's not a glass of agua to the left. It's actually what we're calling "lush water," a mix of gin, mezcal, maraschino liqueur, and vermouth blanc, cut only by orange peel oils and a dash of club soda.

"It's modernist and design-forward, and it's subversive," The Garret's Grant Wheeler says of the cocktail. "I’ve been watching a lot of Mad Men, and I really like how sexy those martinis are. So it got me thinking, What would be inconspicuous and not take away from your outfit?"

Enter the Glass House, a spirit-forward cocktail with strong botanical notes. It'll definitely teach you to not judge a book by its cover, especially coming from The Garret, the new West Village hideaway above a Five Guys. Enter the burger joint, head up a set of stairs, and you'll find yourself in a hidden travelers' den filled with worldy tchotkes: taxidermied rhino heads, hourglasses of all sizes, and plenty of booze.

From behind the bar...

Name: Grant Wheeler

If this drink had a soundtrack, what would it be? "shake Pendulum Shake" by the Savants

Why is this the ultimate summer cocktail? A lot of summer cocktails are giant behemoth cocktails and it’s such an event. It’s such a distraction. There’s no fruit juices or infusions, here. This is a little bit more subtle and flexible.

Best place to get day drunk: On a park bench with a bottle of muscadet in a solo cup. It’s a French coastal wine—very clean, high in mineral content, and just delicious.

Hangover cure: I like to call my mom, just to check in and know everything is okay. You can wake up and be really hungover, but you call your mom and she still loves you.

What are some red-light signs that someone’s been overserved? A surefire sign is if someone really wants to hang out later that night or "maybe tomorrow." If they’re talking about breakfast, or if somebody is asking me where we should go to breakfast that day.

OC Exclusive Recipe: The Glass House

OC Alcohol Scale*: 8
"It’s very, very boozy, but still drinkable."

1.5 oz Plymouth gin
.5 oz Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur
.5 oz Vida mezcal
.5 oz Dolin Blanc Vermouth
1 orange peel
Dash of club soda

1. Stir all ingredients vigorously with ice.
2. Coat the inside of the glass and rim with orange peel oil.
3. Add fresh ice to the glass, pour cocktail over.
4. Top with club soda.

*OC's Alcohol Scale ranges from 1 ("like sippin' from a juice box") to 10 ("take me home—right now").

Photos by Jessica Chou

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