Articles on this Page
- 06/11/14--21:00: _Simon Says: 'The Yo...
- 06/10/14--21:00: _Cool Dads: Full Cou...
- 06/11/14--21:00: _All Together Now: D...
- 06/11/14--21:00: _Ryan McGinley Gives...
- 06/11/14--21:00: _Science Meets Natur...
- 06/11/14--21:00: _Most Wanted: Robert...
- 06/12/14--21:00: _Local Supply: Your ...
- 06/12/14--21:00: _New & Now: The OC T...
- 06/12/14--21:00: _Father's Day: A Per...
- 06/12/14--21:00: _Beach Sleek: Backst...
- 06/12/14--21:00: _Manolo Blahnik Call...
- 06/13/14--13:00: _Belgian Slang Dicti...
- 06/12/14--21:00: _Week In Haiku: June 9
- 06/15/14--21:00: _When You're Outta J...
- 06/15/14--21:00: _Before The World Cu...
- 06/15/14--21:00: _Opening Ceremony Wo...
- 06/15/14--21:00: _KTZ Spring/Summer 2...
- 06/15/14--21:00: _'We're Black Women ...
- 06/15/14--21:00: _Drawing The Line: A...
- 06/15/14--21:00: _Behind The Scenes W...
- 06/11/14--21:00: Simon Says: 'The Youth You Want Is Inside You'
- 06/10/14--21:00: Cool Dads: Full Court's Classy Pop
- 06/11/14--21:00: All Together Now: Denim Revival
- 06/11/14--21:00: Ryan McGinley Gives A+ Commencement Speech
- 06/11/14--21:00: Science Meets Nature: Opening Ceremony Debuts Brand-New Looks
- 06/11/14--21:00: Most Wanted: Robert Clergerie Divana Metallic Heel Sandals
- 06/12/14--21:00: Local Supply: Your Extra Pair Of Shades
- 06/12/14--21:00: New & Now: The OC Tech Shop
- 06/12/14--21:00: Father's Day: A Personal Essay From Humberto Leon
- 06/12/14--21:00: Beach Sleek: Backstage Beauty At OC Resort 2015
- 06/12/14--21:00: Manolo Blahnik Calls Magritte Paintings 'Erotic'
- 06/13/14--13:00: Belgian Slang Dictionary - Drinkgeld
- 06/12/14--21:00: Week In Haiku: June 9
- 06/15/14--21:00: When You're Outta Juice, THIS Little Guy Is All You Need
- 06/15/14--21:00: Before The World Cup, US Starting Defender Talks Tattoos
- 06/15/14--21:00: Opening Ceremony Women's Resort 2015: The Lookbook
- 06/15/14--21:00: KTZ Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men
- 06/15/14--21:00: 'We're Black Women Playing The Violin A Way No One Plays It'
- 06/15/14--21:00: Drawing The Line: A Closer Look At Resort
- 06/15/14--21:00: Behind The Scenes With Thierry Boutemy
So, we turned to Simon Collins, the dean of the School of Fashion at Parsons. Collins recently penned a TOME that explores how and why people get to be so dang successful. To glean a bit of that for ourselves, we're launching the weekly series Simon Says, in which Collins lends tongue-in-cheek, Brit-bloke advice to our pain-point questions and social entanglements.
Q: As an adult, how can you stay kid-like and still kick-ass?
Q: I accidentally sent an email to my boss, trash-talking her, when it should have been sent to my mom. It read: "[Insert boss' name] thinks I'm her 24-hour workhouse. FML." How do I salvage myself?
Dads truly are the original hipsters (and not just because of this TUMBLR). To celebrate June 15, we called on some of Opening Ceremony's favorite designers to interview their own fashionable fathers. This time, Marguerite Wade of Full Court.
"Dad, you're going to get this interview canned," Marguerite Wade says jokingly, as she tries to get him to be a curmudgeonly old man. But Marguerite's father, Hugh, knows how to keep his mouth shut. On Rihanna, see-through dresses, and Miley Cyrus? "I don't know what you're talking about," he says. "I have no opinion on that matter."
He did have things to say about Marguerite's athletic line, Full Court, however. "You will not have any problem selling your line, because styles change, fashions change, but class does not," he says. "I'm glad you think I have class," Marguerite says. Here, she interviews her father about Hyde Park in the hippie days and whether or not the Brooks Brothers-loving dad wore bell-bottoms.
MARGUERITE WADE: Okay, pops. Who did you dress like when you were my age?
HUGH WADE: Nobody, really. We just dressed depending on the occasion.
Well, what was a typical first date like?
I graduated from Northwestern, and Northwestern was out in Evanston. That particular area is dry, so people would zip into Chicago to party or go out on a date. You would take them out to Pizzeria Uno or something like that. I took your mom to Pizzeria Uno, the original.
When did you meet my mom?
I met her in Hyde Park in the '60s. Hyde Park has become more famous with people your age because that’s where Obama lived, but it was a heck of a lot more famous before he got there, starting from the '20s on. The Village [in New York] got its inspiration from Hyde Park.
So, if you were walking around Hyde Park, did you notice people who dressed with flair?
My generation does not deal in flair. I think they still go to Brooks Brothers like I do, [or] Paul Stuart…
Well you don’t do flair.
None of that was called "flair." That was just called "getting dressed." I guess if you’re going to see Sly and the Family Stone, you would wear something with what you would call "flair." Which would probably be a very colorful shirt, dress pants...
No, no, no. That was a completely different thing.
Well, I remember this one experience. It was the '80s, and we were visiting you and you came out in hilarious tan bell-bottoms. We were aghast because they were so big at the ankles. We had never seen anything like it before. And you said, "Oh, these are my old pants."
I did do bell-bottoms in the '70s, but I don’t remember. I probably blocked it out.
You have good style, other than that. You used to wear very particular things.
When I was a young man there was such a thing called a Nehru jacket, and every fashion designer was designing things to go with the Nehru jacket. And I never got one. It didn’t look good on me. Like, I never had a major afro. Everyone had the afro, slack pants, the tie-dye (I did do tie-dye), and platform shoes.
Did you have a pair of platform shoes?
No, I did not. I thought I would fall off and break my neck.
So, you went against all of that, which I like.
I just can’t wear it. The afro, s
Shop all Denim HERE
Last month, OC BFF and photography wunderkind RYAN MCGINLEY began his Parsons COMMENCEMENT SPEECH, where he studied graphic design in the late '90s, with a well-timed joke: "Everyone always says that I'm supposed to picture you guys naked. It's supposed to calm my nerves, right, but it would just be another day at work for me, so..."
While the audience laughed, McGinley, 36, went on, crafting a brilliant and affecting speech about inspiring young photographers, finding a unique lens, and creating "an artistic world that we can enter into." Here, McGinley's studio coordinator Kareem Allen asks the man of the hour a few questions for OC.
KAREEM ALLEN: Where did you work in college?
RYAN MCGINLEY: I had some of my first photo assignments shooting for Index Magazine, and became the photo editor for Vice while I was still studying at Parsons.
Who else was in your class at Parsons?
Jack McCollough from Proenza Schouler was in my grade. I remember he wore ringer T-shirts and his boyfriend was a ballet dancer.
Who were your some of favorite teachers?
My favorite teacher at Parsons was George Pitts; I talked a lot about him in my commencement speech. Early in school, I met an artist named Jack Walls who taught me what my teachers couldn’t. He taught me about the street. He was a poet and a retired gangbanger from Chicago. We’d walk around and he’d say, “That’s Stonewall, where the riots happened in ‘69," or, “Look up there through that arched window! That’s where Jean-Michel Basquiat painted and died,” and, “This is where Robert Mapplethorpe had his first studio," “That green building is where Robert Frank has lived for over 30 years," “Do you know the history of CBGB?” “That’s the St. Mark's Church where Patti Smith did her first poetry reading,” “That big building is The Bunker where William Burroughs lived!” He educated me on the history of punk and Downtown NY. Throughout my college years, Jack also taught me how to drink all night; we had some fun times.
Tell us about you first photographs. What were they like?
I consider my first photographs to be my skateboard videos I would make of my friends. I saved up to buy a fisheye lens and a Sony HandyCam. After school, I’d film my friends trying to do a sequence of tricks in a row, and then repeat it all day until we got it right. The skateboard tape was essentially an art book of all our greatest hits.
What’s up now?
Right now, I have a show up at Galerie Perrotin in Hong Kong. It’s called Vertical Color of Sound and runs through Jun 21.
And what's next, after that?
My next show at Team Gallery will be called Yearbook and will run from September 7 through October 12.
Ryan McGinley Photo taken at Sears Portrait Studio
From peach palm fronds to sea anemones to raffia as plush as fresh-cut grass, Opening Ceremony's Resort 2015 collection looked like it emerged from a tropical greenhouse. (Or perhaps, a tropical greenhouse 20 years in the future.) The line, presented at the Opening Ceremony flagship in New York today, was a fantastical combination of botany and beach club, femininity and futuristic streetwear.
Had you walked down Howard Street this morning around 9, you would have caught a first glimpse of the models as they paraded towards the store, aided by fashionable crossing guards-slash-OC staffers holding fire-engine red "MODELS X-ING" signs. The models entered the store to the sound of Katy Perry's "Dark Horse" and Pharrell's "Happy"––played on violin and viola courtesy of Chargaux, the Brooklyn-based strings duo, as guests snapped photos of the looks and nibbled on bagels from Baz.
For the first time, the OC women's collection featured denim, not only on pants and skirts but also accessories like wraparound platforms and the brand-new Athena bag, a satchel in a sweet "lunch bag" shape. Then there was the introduction of a baby-soft faux fur, done in a tropical print. The fabric came in fresh-spun pinks, recalling the fuzzy fauna that might live in a jungle's palm trees. What's more, classic Opening Ceremony shapes––the Dakota skirt, the Varsity Jacket––were reinvented in a host of new texturized materials and prints.
Also debuting this morning was the equally lush men's Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Collage-style prints were paired with nylon anoraks and pullovers in cool greys and oranges, topped off with sporty accessories like sunglasses with an OC-logo lanyard and palm-printed Velcro sneakers. If this doesn't make you long for a tropical getaway, we don't know what will.
Shop Opening Ceremony Women's and Men's | Read our interview with Humberto about the Resort & Men's collections!
Photos by Brayden Olson, Matthew Kelly, and James Blanco
Shop all Robert Clergerie HERE
The designers of Australia's latest export, Local Supply, have both your eyes and your budget in mind. While at a local pub, co-founder Sean Satha misplaced a pair of very expensive sunglasses (you know how these things go). But, in lieu of replacing his wallet-breaking frames, Satha, along with three best mates, decided on a more proactive approach by birthing Local Supply, a stylish line of shades at $65 a pop.
Keeping with that devil-may-care Australian 'tude, these sunkissed shades are dubbed with names like “Ice Grills Moonshine,” or “Kermit’s Classic Glasses." What's more, tattooed along the inside of each frame reads a witty phrase. Examples include “Till death do us part" (which seems more like good fortune) or "I only like green faces," a quote from Kanye West. If you're anything like us, grab a couple of these and stash them everywhere from your beach bag to your dashboard. P.S. Local Supply is available in the US only at OC!
Shop all Local Supply here
Midnights Moonshine Mirror Sunglasses in matte black
Dexter Morgans Classic Sunglasses in blood red
Kermits Classic Sunglasses in candy green
Willy Wonkas Moonshine Mirror Sunglasses in frosted pink
Ice Grills Moonshine Mirror Sunglasses in matte white
SMR-Golds Skyway Mirror Sunglasses in matte gold
Delorean Rainbow Mirror Sunglasses in crystal clear
Shop the OC Tech Shop HERE
Celebrating their first Father's Day as dads, OC founder Humberto Leon and his partner Patrick Wilson reflect on how parenthood has changed their life. To the left, a portrait of the new family in the East Village's Tompkins Square Park, shot by the legendary Max Vadukul (himself a father of twins!).
Last year, we welcomed our twin daughters into our world, instantly doubling the size of our family and halving the size of our apartment. Everyone tells you that your life will change when you start a family, but we never knew quite how real and exciting that change would actually be.
Every day is a new adventure, and everything we used to find tedious, or even unnoticeable, we now get to look at through four brand-new eyes, eager to explore and enjoy every inch of everything. We get to watch them learn to touch (and suck on) their toes, learn to give us kisses, learn to crawl (or learn that they’d rather not), and learn what the Magical Kingdom of Disneyland is all about.
We both had always dreamed of being dads, but never really thought we’d be able to make it a reality. But now, here we are, with these two little girls. The best part? We get to teach them about everything we love—from beaches and trees to music and clothes to dogs and New York City.
Shop OC's Father's Day gift guide HERE | Read more of our Father's Day features HERE
Humberto Leon, Patrick Wilson, Emi Leon-Wilson, and Mazzarine Leon-Wilson. Photo by Max Vadukul
How many bottles of hairspray does it take to get 40 models ready for the Opening Ceremony Resort 2015 presentation? Twenty cans of Bumble and bumble Cityswept Finish for the guys, and about another 20 bottles of Does It All Styling Spray and Shine On (And On) Finishing Spray for girls. The look: sophisticated and androgynous, with a hint of tough and sporty. “It's nice because it has a point of view without making too much of a statement,” said lead stylist Jordan M at yesterday's presentation. “Keep it simple, keep it sharp." The ladies wore slicked-back low ponytails with ultra-clean side parts, while boys sported wetter, messier manes.
Makeup also had a clean––but slightly beachy––look. Think the healthy glow one acquires after a weekend away from the city. To achieve this, the artists at NARS used Hot Sand Illuminator on the eyes, around the seams of the mouth, down the nose, on the cheekbones in a chevron-like shape, and on the chin. "That’s what really gives it a glowing, moist look," explained makeup artist Patrick Eichler. The violinist beauties of CHARGAUX, who performed at the presentation, donned a smoky cat eye, courtesy of NARS Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Via Veneto. According to one of the artists, it “stays on like a tattoo.” Of course, no Opening Ceremony show would be complete without nail-art magic by NAOMI YASUDA of Naomi Nails for CND, who used the pastel palette of the collection to create candy-stripe nails that added just the right amount of pop to the chic seaside look.
Backstage, our friends at Bumble and bumble taught us how to achieve beach-sleek hair in just a few steps.
For the girls:
1. Make a deep side part going straight back on the right. Prep with styling or thickening spray if necessary, and blow dry straight back.
2. Split your hair into three sections: back, side, side. Spray with Does It All Styling Spray section by section, starting at the nape. Use Shine On (And On) Finishing Spray on the final layer.
3. The hair on the crown of your head needs to go over and then down to form a ponytail. Double check that your parts are perfect, and then make sure the crown stays down when you use a bungee to fasten. Clean it up. Remove the bungee and fasten with elastic. Double knot; cut the loose ends of the bungee.
4. Check that your hairline is opaque and solid. You should be able to see the valley of your part going straight back when looking in the mirror!
For the boys:
1. Saturate hair with Cityswept Finish. Blow dry or diffuse if necessary.
2. Part on the right and push to the left. Don’t make it too clean: It should feel like you ran your fingers through your hair after the gym. If a cowlick gets away, that’s okay.
Photos by Matthew Kelly and Balarama Heller
What is your favorite Magritte painting?
Definitely, Les Amants [The Lovers]. The repression conveyed in that painting is fascinating. It is so pure. I actually find it more erotic than a more obvious image.
What was your first experience with Magritte?
I remember when I was very young, I went to an exhibition in Geneva and I liked it a lot.
What sort of woman do you envision wearing this particular collection?
Any woman with a vivid imagination. The shoes are so surreal and fun!
Shop the Opening Ceremony & Magritte Manolo Blahniks in OC stores. You can also place a phone order for the collection by calling (646) 237-6078 Mon-Fri 10AM-6PM EST!
Sure, you can order a pommes-frites with curry ketchup and pronounce Dries Van Noten's name without a hitch. But can you really get by in Belgium? Our Slang Dictionary will make sure of it.
WEEK IN HAIKU is a week in review for the well-dressed––and the well-versed.
glow in the dark. Welcome to
The Cosmic Cavern.
This season Kenzo
takes a cue from France. Champagne,
We asked museums
about their Lost AND Founds: art
Science and nature
battle it out in OC’s
Get ready to Awww…
Humberto is a father
of cute twin daughters.
clockwise, from top left: Father's Day: A Personal Essay From Humbrto Leon; Science Meets Nature: OC Debuts Brand-New Looks; KENNY SCHARF DOESN'T WANT THE FANTASY TO END; The Art of Lost & Founds
Don’t you hate it when that made-for-Instagram, birthday candle-blowing moment arises and then your iPhone dies? Or, you’re running late to meet friends and then, bam—no juice? How did people even have friends before cellphones?!
Enter this adorable Cheero charger, featuring the Japanese character Danboard (essentially a robot, made of cardboard). The nifty gadget allows you to carry a pocket-sized phone charger with you for all your selfie-taking and Google map-guiding needs. (Trust, your friends will excuse your tardiness once they see that cute face peeking out of your bag.) This little guy packs a powerful punch: You can charge your iPhone fully, up to five times, before recharging. Cheero up!
Shop our OC Tech Shop HERE
Cheero Danboard Mini Power Plus in light brown
Tonight, Team USA will begin its Brazil adventure by playing Ghana in the "Group of Death," the first game against three nations (the others being Germany and Portugal) that eliminated the Americans from previous tournaments. And while USA vs. Ghana will be a tough game to predict, we're turning the focus on a different dynamic: Starting Defender, Geoff Cameron—and his awesome, inspired tattoos.
Cameron's friend and former Houston Dynamo teammate, Calen Carr, recently caught up with the 28-year-old soccer star.
I saw Geoff in San Francisco a few weeks ago, while he and the United States national team were in town preparing for their World Cup opener against Ghana's "Black Stars." Geoff and his teammate Alejandro Bedoya wanted to see the sights of SF during an afternoon off from grueling double-day training sessions, so they drove up from their camp’s base at Stanford University, alongside Austin Cary Rhodes and Josh Leon of Nike. We decided to cross the Golden Gate Bridge and head to the Marin Headlands, and were fortunate to find ourselves in one of those fleeting moments without the customary layer of fog blocking our view.
Having been friends as well as former teammates in Houston, it was great to meet Geoff by my hometown, just as he had welcomed me to his family's place for home-cooked meals during away trips to New England. To see his ascension to the heights of the EPL—and now stepping out onto the sport’s biggest stage—has been nothing short of inspiring. Here, Geoff took a rare moment to chat with me on the phone from Brazil, sharing his story of what it will mean to walk out of that tunnel, wearing not only the badge of his country, but the ink of his family crest, as well.
CALEN CARR: Do you have a favorite World Cup memory as a kid? What is it like to be there now, as a player?
GEOFF CAMERON: It would definitely be 1994, Foxborough Stadium. My dad brought me to see Argentina play against Greece. I remember watching the whole game, but being more focused on [Diego] Maradona. He was one of those players you couldn’t take your eyes off, and I remember he scored that day. It’s surreal being here in Brazil now. I remember telling my dad that I wanted to represent my country, to be in a World Cup, and to play professionally. This is a dream come true.”
You see players from every country with tattoos now, but you've taken a really personal approach. Where did you get them done? And who did the work?
I had them all done by a friend, a tattoo artist named Chris Evans who’s based in and around Boston and the Providence area in Rhode Island. I grew up in Attleboro, MA, so I've usually had the work done when I’ve been back home during breaks from playing. I started getting them in 2011, so it’s been a long process where it had to be done piece by piece because of my schedule. I wasn’t in any real rush to do it though, and made sure they were all something that have meaning behind them.
Can you talk a little bit about the detail of what they mean and what they represent to you?
On the inside of my arm is my family crest—Clan Cameron—originally of Scottish heritage. The words, “Aonaibh Ri Cheile,” are written inside the buckled circle of the crest, on the inside of my left bicep. It translates to, “Let Us Unite.” On the other side, I have St. Christopher, the patron saint of travel. The sport has taken me so many places since growing up in Attleboro—from Houston and now Europe for Stoke City—and all over the globe for the national team. The tattoo is a way to signify that journey and to keep me safe.
I don't th
Last week, early Thursday morning and preceding the live presentation, Opening Ceremony’s Resort 2015 collection was shot by the talented lensman ARNO FRUGIER. As models were ushered on and off the set, Frugier felt no pressure. In fact, he found the experience to be nothing short of fun. “It's always exciting to shoot collections right before presentation,” said Frugier. “You have a very short time to capture the emotions, the lines, and all the details of the clothes.” Frugier (who worked under fashion photographer Paolo Roversi), used exotic plants with a contrasting, bright-pink backdrop, giving the set a "jungle-like" feel—if jungles were to exist in a fashion paradise. Count us in.
Photographed by Arno Frugier
Somewhere between a boxing match, a chariot fight, and a gangster showdown sits KTZ's Spring/Summer 2015 collection.
It’s early morning and the venue is already packed with die-hard brand fans, who all arrived on time—early even—dosed up on Berocca so as not to miss the show after last night's debauchery. Presented at London's Old Sorting Office, the collection included molded torsos for the men lacking body confidence, tribal embroidery for those pained with wanderlust, and boxing ring-like gowns for others wishing to channel Muhammad Ali.
"It ain't easy ducking and diving all the stuff that's thrown at you on a daily basis," reads the press release on our seats. "Like Perseus fighting the Minotaur, today's urban warriors are armed with technology and their battlefield is the street." Designer Marjan Pejoski does sound like he gets the modern man, though with the aid of a little creative humor, it could be argued this collection is equally suitable for the cartoon Viking Asterix as it is the everyday gentleman. That said, no one in the crowd is laughing. Executed with such conviction, there's panache, originality, and confidence in looks such as a monochrome skirt, a plaster-cast breastplate, chunky sandals, and a heavy gold chain.
The color palette—dominated by black and white and awash with clementine orange towards the end—was inspired by Ancient Greek vases. The embroidered patterns, too, look like they'd be just as comfortable on ancient urns as they are here, on heavy tunics, knee-length shorts, and sheer mesh tees. The brand’s signature athletic, boxy shapes continue to reign, amped up with accessories for Spring/Summer 2015, such as heavy medallion necklaces, Ancient Greek figures hanging as pendants, and hard-helmets with warrior-esque leather mohawks. "Here is to the urban warrior that lives within us all," is the message Marjan aims to convey.
Shop all KTZ here | E-mail ONLINE@OPENINGCEREMONY.US to be notified once the Spring/Summer 2015 collection hits OC!
Photos by Tia Simon-Campbell
Charly and Margaux are in a band. They also share a shoe size, caramel skin flecked with tattoos, an affinity for colorful hair, and the ability to bring goosebumps to the back of your neck with the stroke of a violin. They’re not sisters, but people ask. When they order Sangria, I do too, as if the drink might suddenly make me capable of banging out "Canon in D" while sporting bum-length PURPLE BRAIDS.
Charly and Margaux––together, Chargaux––are such a perfect pairing that at times it seems impossible they met anywhere but a music executive’s boardroom. In fact, it was on the street. “I saw this girl with a crazy blonde afro on the corner [of Boston’s Copley Square] playing violin,” says Margaux, who plays viola. Charly recalls differently. "It was a mohawk!" Hair disputes aside, both remember what happened the next day when they played together at the same spot. “People were taking pictures of us and asking if we were a group,” Margaux said.
Three years, dozens of subway performances, and a move to Brooklyn later, Chargaux is gearing up for the release of its second EP, Broke & Baroque, whose track “I’m So Pretty” premieres today on the OC blog. Last Thursday, the duo performed at our Resort 2015 presentation, looking as stylish as any of the models. (Full disclosure: at the high school Margaux and I both attended, she was one of the few who avoided such sartorial stumbles as double-popped collars and boat shoes with socks.)
I sat down with the duo after the presentation to talk blue eyebrows, classical music, and how to avoid getting pigeonholed in a genre.
ALICE HINES: Tell me the story of how you guys met.
MARGAUX: It was serendipitous. [Charly] was on the corner playing violin and I stopped her and was like, “Oh, I play viola! Would you like to play together?”
CHARLY: Then she tried to text her mom, but she texted me accidentally.
Margaux: It’s so creepy. I was like, “Mom I just met this awesome girl, a violinist!” And I sent it to [Charly].
Charly: Then we found out we lived one train stop away from each other.
Margaux: It’s a crazy story. That was three years ago and here we are now.
Where are you going to be three years from now?
Margaux: I want to travel more. We’ve been to Jamaica and Japan and Europe together. I feel like that's what’s coming next. That, as well as fusing our music with the art world––because [Charly’s] a visual artist.
When you were growing up did you ever think you’d be playing violin and viola professionally?
Margaux: Yeah. I always knew.
Charly: We’re both business-minded. She has stories about [how] when she was 10 she started her own orchestra. I was making money playing places around Atlanta.
Margaux: We’ve both been hustling; we’ve been grinding our whole lives. I started this quintet when I was 13 [in Detroit]. One of the girls in our orchestra was a cellist and her mother was a jazz singer who would do tours. I was like, "Can
Here at Opening Ceremony, we're mad about diagonal stripes, so when it came to our recent Resort 2015 collection, we kept the lines clean and the colors bold. “One of the things we focused on were these bright, breathable stripes that are inserted throughout the collection,” said co-founder Humberto Leon. “We wanted to function with this active aspect.” True to that branded stamp of quirk and cult-chic, our designers favored an athletic functionality against a more tailored silhouette, only to be offset again by a jaunty application of said bold stripes. (Children of the '80s: Is anyone else recalling that glorious Fruit Stripe Bubble Gum?)
Aside from the diverse, texturized fabrics, we also saw an array of blown-out, oceanic-inspired prints, which, according to Leon, laid out a certain cohesion: “You'll see that these patterns speak to each other in terms of this mother print, the anemone,” he said. Another water-inspired introduction? A frayed, plush raffia, which ran like piping to nylon pants or as a vertical stripe along the bottom of a delicate dress.
Photo by Arno Frugier and Bala
Floral prints are a dime a dozen. But floral prints based on real arrangements of chrysanthemum, carnation, and dahlia by master Belgian florists are, as far as we know, completely singular. Thierry Boutemy, the fleuriste behind Opening Ceremony's new collaboration, is as whimsical as his designs. Below, we ask the man behind the arrangements in Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette and Vogue's Lady Gaga COVER about his memories of wild herbs in Normandy, his mood boards of crushed flowers, and why he was once considered a bad florist.
Shop Thierry Boutemy for Opening Ceremony Men's and WomeN's
OPENING CEREMONY: What flowers did you choose for the collection?
How did you create the prints in this collection? Are they based on real floral arrangements?
NATHALIE CAMPION [Thierry's assistant]: Thierry made many different mood boards of flowers, some with natural flowers, others with dyed flowers, others with grassy plants or even cacti. For him, the most important thing was to play with the material, the colors, and the different textures. He also wanted to work with the type of dirt you find on your socks after walking through damp, wild fields. Certain flowers he crushed on the mood boards to create impressions from their pigments. He created the boards by reflecting on images in his mind and interpreting them as flowers. Everything about his process is instinctive.
I read that you studied agriculture as well as flower design. How did this influence your work?
Badly. These studies are much too scholarly and rigid. Freedom is completely banned; they try to make students follow norms. [In school] the horticulture that we were learning didn't interest me at all. I learned how to become independent, to get off the beaten track. I was considered a bad florist.
How did you meet Sofia Coppola? Tell us the story!
What are the flowers like in Normandy where you're from?
I am from Avranches. It’s wild flowers from the field; simple, seasonal. We also have what we today consider to be bad weeds but which are very pretty, like the wind that blows through them. True nature. They wilt naturally; no one cuts them but they stay beautiful.