Articles on this Page
- 03/25/14--21:00: _Princess Diana's Sw...
- 03/26/14--21:00: _Subversively Simple...
- 03/26/14--21:00: _Take 40% Off the 'h...
- 03/26/14--21:00: _Delfina Delettrez T...
- 03/26/14--21:00: _Still Stuck Off the...
- 03/27/14--21:00: _Escape to Julien Da...
- 03/27/14--21:00: _Meet The Model: Col...
- 03/27/14--21:00: _Most Wanted: Niels ...
- 03/27/14--21:00: _Chalk Point Kitchen...
- 03/27/14--21:00: _The Look: Christell...
- 03/30/14--21:00: _Human Potential Mad...
- 03/30/14--21:00: _Top Chef, Top Eats:...
- 03/30/14--21:00: _Celebrating the Lau...
- 03/31/14--21:00: _The Corrugated Card...
- 03/31/14--21:00: _OC in HK! Check out...
- 03/31/14--21:00: _STYLE OUT: Head-to-...
- 03/31/14--21:00: _Bright Camo and Bli...
- 03/31/14--21:00: _Vacation in the Sou...
- 04/01/14--21:00: _In the Studio With ...
- 04/01/14--21:00: _Kaal E Suktae's Cor...
- 03/25/14--21:00: Princess Diana's Sweater Meets 70s Softcore Porn
- 03/26/14--21:00: Subversively Simple: Komakino Spring/Summer 2014
- 03/26/14--21:00: Take 40% Off the 'her' by OC Collection!
- 03/26/14--21:00: Delfina Delettrez Talks Fur, Feathers, and Fendi
- 03/26/14--21:00: Still Stuck Off the Realness: Mobb Deep
- 03/27/14--21:00: Escape to Julien David's Desert Island
- 03/27/14--21:00: Meet The Model: Colby DeMarco
- 03/27/14--21:00: Most Wanted: Niels Peeraer Winged Bag
- 03/27/14--21:00: Chalk Point Kitchen, As Local As it Gets
- 03/27/14--21:00: The Look: Christelle de Castro
- 03/30/14--21:00: Human Potential Made a Collection Inspired by Sacrificial Blood
- 03/31/14--21:00: The Corrugated Cardboard Hoodie You'll Never Take Off
- 03/31/14--21:00: OC in HK! Check out our Pop-up Inside I.T Hysan One
- 03/31/14--21:00: STYLE OUT: Head-to-Toe OC Men's SS14
- 03/31/14--21:00: Bright Camo and Blissed-Out Florals: Steve J & Yoni P
- 03/31/14--21:00: Vacation in the South of France with Jacquemus
- 04/01/14--21:00: In the Studio With Haerfest
- 04/01/14--21:00: Kaal E Suktae's Corner Stone Collection
What connection is there between 70s erotic films and Princess Diana? They're both inspirations for Walk Of Shame's Spring/Summer 2014 collection. Last season we were introduced to the Russian brand via its sultry 70s-inspired looks, and the disco vibe hasn't stopped thumping yet. Clean white denim jackets and knee-length culottes meet mink fur and gold hardware in this collection, with sheer pieces adding a delicate contrast to the stiffer cotton separates. The brand also brought back its beloved "I'm a Luxury" sweater in a springy lemon color (which as it turns out, was modeled after a jumper Princess Diana wore). We spoke with the designer Andrey Artyomov about some of his favorite things including airline stewardesses, lurex dresses, and 70s softcore classic Emmanuelle.
Shop all Walk Of Shame HERE
Shannan Elinor Smith: Can you tell me a little bit about yourself and growing up in Russia?
Andrey Artyomov: I grew up in Ufa, the capital of the Republic of Bashkortostan in the middle of Russia. It is a federal subject of Russia, between the Volga River and Ural Mountains. It is primarily Muslim, but very secular. I remember the local TV station was always dedicated to national traditional art, songs, and dances, a beauty that was pure and naïve. I also remember the 90s in Russia—we were all wearing stuff from flea markets, but it was kind of super luxurious to get dressed like that. We were wearing these Gucci, Chanel, and Benetton T-shirts with the logo embroidered in the front, and it was so funny because we didn’t even make a distinction between Gucci and Benetton, it was equally chic to us. Russian MTV at the end of 90s was a total breakthrough culturally.
How did the line start?
The line started in Moscow three years ago. I remember about seven years ago, I was at the opening of what is now a very well-known bar in Moscow. My friend and I got really drunk, and she burned her transparent tights with a cigarette. I continued to make the dots with the cigarette, and we customized her tights into polka-dot tights. At 3 AM, she still had the tights on when she met up with the guy who directed the Opening Ceremony at the Sochi Olympics (and at that time he was already a very well-known director). My friends and our lifestyle is what inspired me in a lot of ways. So I decided to make clothes about them.
What do you think your line conveys about fashion and youth culture in Russia?
My line is about youth and fun! Or, more about the feeling of being young and cool. I would say it’s just about the people who are able to have fun, who are not serious about themselves—ironic but sexy. I mean sexy in a subtle way; young Russians are very independent, intelligent, authentic, and free. This is what makes them super attractive.
Your line mixes a lot of retro-inspired looks from the 70s with modern street culture style. How did you come up with this combination?
The 70s is my favorite epoch. When I was a kid I always imagined the perfect woman in a lurex dress dancing beautifully and wild. I just combined this woman with the style approach street culture has.
What was the concept behind the Spring/Summer 2014 collection?
We took basic inspiration from 70s erotic films. The first erotic movie [available] in the former USSR was Emmanuelle starring Sylvia Kristel. The most powerful scen
Much like Ian Curtis' vocals in a Joy Division song of the same name, British brand Komakino has a dark, haunting presence. "The name sounded just right for us," designer Federico Capalbo explained in an inteview this week. "Our collections are always very much inspired by outsiders."
This season, Komakino's military meets punk aesthetic has a revolutionary edge, with anarchist symbology sprinkled on T-shirts and hoodies. At first glance, some of the graphics could almost be mistaken for more conventional branded logos, which Federico has avoided in the past. But on further inspection, phrases like "ANTI KOMAKINO" and "Spring/Summer 1922" throw confusion and tongue-in-cheek mockery into the otherwise clean-lined and straightforward collection. "This is our first season where we use the brand's name on the pieces, and I wanted it to almost poke fun at the collection," he said.
Part of the inspiration for "Spring/Summer 1922" was the logo of a socialist group that was revived in 1922, the International Workingmen's Association (IWA). But the reference was more of a commentary on fashion than politics, Federico said. "Some brands will put the season on their clothes, so I did that but I wanted to choose a year far back enough that it wasn't obvious."
Still, I couldn't help but wonder: are Komakino's references to radical politics purely aesthetic? Or does Federico feel an affinity to anarchist groups? "In a way, yes," he said. "In a system like fashion, it is almost impossible to voice yourself if you are outside of it. I believe that fashion can be socially addressed, but what we do has more to do with identity. It’s about the feeling of an inner revolt maybe; it’s connected to subculture, defined by outsiders." And although it seems counter-intuitive, maybe it's the static simplicity of the garments that makes Komakino so seditious.
Shop all Komakino here.
Photo courtesy of Komakino
back patch ma-1 jacket in black
short-sleeve extension shirt in navy
sleeveless extension shirt in black/red
printed hoodie in black
half patch hoodie in green
oversized printed t-shirt in white
oversized patch t-shirt in blac
OC friend Spike Jonze's film her has been nominated for so many awards that it needed a separate Wikipedia page to list them. But the movie's feat closest to our heart is Casey Storm's impeccable costume design—familiar enough for you to lose yourself in the love story, with a futuristic twist. OC created a wardrobe inspired by Joaquin Phoenix's character Theodore Twombly, including distinctive high-rise trousers, color-blocked sweats, and shirts with a safety pin on the iPhone-sized pocket. And from now until Sunday, March 30, you can take 40 percent off the collection with code HER40!
Shop all her by Opening Ceremony for men and for women | See our exclusive editorial HERE
Offer is not valid in stores and cannot be applied to previous purchases. Offer ends Sunday, 3/30/13 at 11:59pm PST. Offer is available online only and is applicable only to select merchandise. Offer cannot be combined with other discount offers.
As the daughter of Silvia Venturini Fendi, Delfina Delettrez is undoubtedly part of fashion royalty. But she's better known as an accomplished jewelry designer in her own right—she launched her eponymous line in 2007 and has since created season after season of stunning, sought-after accessories. Her unique take on structure and jewel setting has made her an OC favorite and a household name in the fashion world. Now, seven years later, Delfina joined her mother and Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi to create a line of bracelets, earpieces, and rings that combine the signature Fendi fur and Delfina's otherworldly accents. I recently spoke with the designer to talk about this step into the family business.
You can place a phone order for the Delfina Delettrez for Fendi collection by calling (646) 237-6078, Mon–Fri 10am–6pm EST!
Dana Melanz: Hi Delfina, congratulations on the new collection! Even though you are a Fendi, this is actually the first time you’re working with the design house. How did that come about?
Delfina Delettrez: Well, it was a natural process. [Fendi] wanted to focus more on the jewelry, so I guess it was kind of a normal step to ask me. I was observed by the designers, and they waited for four or five years because they really wanted to see what was my process was. Then I was called on as a product designer. I was happy to be treated and considered as a designer and not as just a fourth generation who started working for the brand.
Was it the Fendi jewelry team that you worked with or was it your own team?
Well, both. It was my team who was actually helping me. I always work with noble materials, precious stones, so I needed to have a sort of a direction on where to go, so Fendi worked with my team. I wanted to follow the manufacturing process and all the technical aspects, so it was like two jewelry teams, two universes that melted perfectly. We worked with the fur atelier, because we needed to find a way to have powerful splashes of fur. They knew how to cut the fur, but putting it in the metal was new for the atelier, so we all worked it out together.
This was the first time that you worked with fur right?
Yes, fur and magnets.
What were some things you learned from working with magnets and fur?
It was so new. You need to understand how to make the magnets work; it needs to be functional but aesthetically you don’t need to see them. This was the technical aspect, and then the jewelry had to have a beautiful shape, even when the fur is not on the piece.
How did you, Karl [Lagerfeld], and your mother come to this decision to mix fur, metal, and precious stones?
From the beginning we said it would be based on the bag bugs. They're Fendi, they're fur, but it was ironic. The Fendi logo is the double F which means fun fur, and ever since I was a child we were surrounded by fur no matter the season. I thought that by adding fur jewelry to a Spring/Summer collection it would be surreal. I think that both fur and stones have a powerful presence. I had a kind of abnormal attraction to the detail of the eye [on the bag bugs] and they wanted to make them more extravagant, more feminine. I started to add eye "makeup," long eyelashes made of metal lashes or fur. But then I was feeling that these eyes were kind of mutating into monsters themselves. They were not looking like eyes anymore, but like kind of a tropical bird. That’s why I started to add feathers as well, as sort of a beautiful tail. It was a mix of everything, but it was sort of like a Miyazaki fairy tale, something that is a
1993 was a game-changing year for hip-hop. Wu-Tang Clan and A Tribe Called Quest released classic albums, Tupac Shakur slapped the world with Strictly For My N.I.G.G.A.Z. in the wake of the Rodney King tragedy of the Los Angeles riots, and on the West Coast, Snoop Dogg and Dr. Dre had just taken G-Funk mainstream with “Nuthin' but a G Thang."
Only 19 at the time, the duo Havoc and Prodigy of Mobb Deep was knee deep in the movement, recording in the studio with 90s legends Nas and Raekwon. Their 1993 album Juvenile Hell reflected the distinctive energy moving underground hip-hop culture to the forefront and getting it recognized for what it was––socio-political commentary on working class America.
But what made Mobb Deep stand out from the rest was their authenticity. The opening line of “Shook Ones Part II,” “I got you stuck off the realness,” is by some opinions one of the best opening lines in hip-hop, and certainly codified “realness” as one of rap’s core values. Growing up in the Queensbridge projects, Mobb Deep was involved in a lot of street struggles from a young age, as fans will recall from the line, “I’m only 19 but my mind is old.” Their beats further distinguished them––dark, eerie, and soaked in that distinctive New York soul, cleverly sampling Motown artists like Willie Hutch.
Now, 20 years later, Havoc and Prodigy are looking back at their success and cataloging. They’re in the midst of a North American tour and are gearing up for an album release. The Infamous Mobb Deep, set to be released on April 1, will include their breakthrough 1995 album as well as previously unreleased tracks from the era.
Recently, star struck and nerve-racked, I talked with Prodigy about Mobb Deep’s beginnings, where they used to go digging for records in Manhattan, and more.
Grace Wang: You guys met at the High School of Art and Design, which Marc Jacobs and Pharoahe Monch also attended. What were you each studying or interested in?
Prodigy: Havoc was going to school for architecture and I was going to school for designing clothes or what not. I liked this place in Queens called the Shirt Kings. They used to make these shirts with the cartoon characters with big gold ropes and stuff like that. That’s where I got the inspiration to do what I was doing at school.
What other fashion were you into at the time? You definitely talk about clothes in some of your lyrics. In "Peer Pressure," for example you say, “Buyin’ new gear, nuthin but the best / Forget Levi's, strictly Polo and Guess.”
Yeah, we talk a lot about the fashion at the time. You know back then in the early 90s, late 80s, it was like Benetton, Nautica, Polo, some things like that. Word.
In 1993 you guys were dropped by your label Island, then picked up by Loud Records, making you label contemporaries with Wu-Tang Clan. Can you talk a bit about that transition?
When we first got signed, we was only like 15, 16. We was still kids, mentally. We wasn’t really taking the business and the craft of making music seriously. So you know, I guess that had to happen to us. For us to get it together, put the reality ahead.
Is that where the line "I&
From Kenzo’s hand-drawn wave graphics to Highland’s jock stoner meets surf rat styles, spring seems to be all about the motion of the ocean. Parisian Julien David’s Spring/Summer 2014 Women's efforts are no exception. Julien’s "The Tribe of the Seven Seas" collection not only incorporates graphics of pixelated deserted islands and pastel palm leaves, but uses water as a broader conceptual framework to explore and expand his use of fabrics and form. From shimmering polyurethane to iridescent cotton jacquard, each of Julien’s pieces playfully combines delicate detailing and relaxed shapes, supporting the effortless cool-but-cute vibe he's cultivated since launching his own label in 2008.
Shop all Julien David HERE
Leaf Print Parka in Navy
Hoodie in Black
Bouees Leaves Jacquard Sweatshirt in Grey
Island Pixel T-Shirt in Black
Meet Colby DeMarco, OC model and green juice expert! When this Virginia native isn't sporting the latest Marques'Almeida, Plastic Tokyo, or Proper Gang, he's concocting amazing new beverages out of kale, collard greens, and Himalayan salt, and using the leftover pulp to make Vegan muffins!
Name: Colby DeMarco
Your neighborhood: Inwood (Washington Heights)
Hometown: Fredericksburg, VA
Astrology sign: Gemini
Occupation (when you're not modeling): Green juice pusher
Essential photoshoot song: "VOGUE"
Most prized possession: Macbook
Best gift you've ever received: NY Yankees beanie
What is something that everyone should try at least once? Veganism
What's the most played song on your iPod? "Come on a Cone" by Nicki Minaj
Favorite place to go to escape the city: Richmond, VA
If you were on a deserted island––five necessities: Green juice, iPod/iPhone (is that allowed?), peanut butter, a friend, coconut oil
What is something about you that no one would expect? By the eighth grade I could bench press 300 pounds. My dad is a football coach. I can't do that anymore :(
What was the easiest and hardest thing about modeling for Opening Ceremony? Easiest: finding my way to set right off the A-train. Hardest: this questionnaire and spelling questionnaire.
Where's the coolest or strangest place you've ever been for a photo shoot? The Alice in Wonderland statue in Central Park.
Best gift you've ever given? Unopened Japanese edition of Madonna's Sex book.
If you weren't a model what would you be doing? Probably something else in fashion or health... Or maybe just someone who Instagrams food a lot.
Best friend you've found in the industry: Photographer/director Char Alfonzo. We frequently collaborate.
What would you choose as your last meal on earth? Three Chipotle burritos (no meat or cheese, but as much guac as possible, please)
What is your spirit animal? Wendy Williams
What's your favorite green juice? I like the hardcore juices with dark greens. I make one with kale, collard greens, swiss chard, cayenne, turmeric, cucumber, garlic, and Himalayan pink salt.
Shop all Marques'Almeida Men's & Women's
Shop all Plastic Tokyo
Shop all Proper Gang
"Most Wanted" presents our favorite and most coveted items available at OC.
Niels Peeraer's new collection just hit Opening Ceremony, and we've got our eyes on this beautifully structured Winged Bag. Brass hardware and bow accents make this the classiest nude we've ever seen.
You can barely glance at a menu in New York these days without seeing words like artisanal, local, and organic. But when Chalk Point Kitchen, the new Soho restaurant from Sons of Essex's Matt Levine, calls itself "market to table," it's not kidding. More than just a trend, "organic is a way of life these days," according to executive chef Joe Isidori.
The restaurant, which opens next Wednesday on Broome street, sources its bread at Grandaisy in Tribeca, its oysters in Montauk, its poultry in the Hudson Valley, and nearly every other ingredient from somewhere within the tri-state area. That doesn't mean the menu doesn't dip its toes in more exotic flavors, though. "Chinatown is in our backyard," Matt pointed out on a recent evening during one of the restaurant's pre-opening dinners attended by OC family. Asian influences are mixed in with the farmhouse vibe: amid the Berkshire pork chop and Maine lobster are sea scallop sashimi, Misoyaki Arctic Char, and a spicy Vietnamese beef salad. Even classic dishes like the Rhode Island mussels are served with kimchi.
The decor also references New York's rich cultural landscape. The ceilings in the kitchen, for instance, are covered with prints of Jean-Michel Basquiat's paintings, "to inspire creativity," according to Matt. Downstairs at the Handy Liquor Bar (named after Thomas Handy, the New Orleans bartender who invented the Sazerac) an assortment of Bob Gruen photos hang on the walls.
The bar, filled with cozy Chesterfield couches, shouldn't disappoint either once it opens on April 15, whether for afternoon meetings or late-night dancing by the jukebox. And its drinks will be spiked with an assortment of fresh herbs grown upstairs among a ledge lit by grow lamps. At 20 feet from the kitchen, that's about as local as it gets.
Montauk pearl oysters. Photos by Matthew Kelly
Garden beet root salad
Espresso chocolate cake
Prints of Basquiat paintings dot the ceilings in the kitchen.
The Hand Liquor Bar downstairs will feature live piano music.
OC's Ally and Humberto
OC's Carol and Josh
OC's Philip, Shirley, and Terrill
OC's Francesca, Simon, Taya, Adrienne, and Joseph
Matt Levine, Danielle Mueller, and William Bastian of Chalk Point Kitchen
Pastry Chef Jillian Duran and Chef de Cuisine Frederick Schoen-Kiewart
In THE LOOK, OC friends drop by to try on our favorite new arrivals and tell us about their wardrobe preferences past and present.
This week, OC alumni extraordinaire, Christelle de Castro took a break from killing it to show us her studio and catch us up on what she’s been up to post-OC. Primarily known as a photographer, Christelle has shot for publications like Dis, Fader, Teen Vogue, V Magazine, VMan, New York Magazine, OC Annual, and Nylon. But Christelle isn’t limited to the still image. Branching out to film and creative direction, her clients include Nike, Norma Kamali, Suno, AcNe studios, Vidal Sassoon, Hood by Air, and Slow & Steady Wins The Race. If that wasn’t enough, in 2012 Christelle started her own creative agency, Stoneman. Watch out, this girl is unstoppable.
Name: Christelle de Castro
Hometown: West Pittsburg, California
What look are you into at the moment? Sporty utilitarian lesbian on-the-go
What look were you into in high school? My high school look was very post-dELiA*s alterna girl meets Dangerous Minds. I put a lot of genres together and had fun with it. I had a huge hat collection (beanies, bucket hats, dare I say cowboy hats!) and tons of accessories. My caboodle was POPPING. Put it this way, I was voted most uniquely dressed as well as class clown, but we couldn't have doubles in the year book, so I took class clown. Thank god, imagine what kind of bonkers outfit I would have put together for the Most Uniquely Dressed photo!
Most regrettable fashion moment? Oh man, I have a lot of these. My most regrettable fashion moments probably happened whenever tight pants were involved between the years of 2004 and 2008.
Your three wardrobe essentials? A good pull-over anorak, Nike sports bras all day, and a classic sneaker like the Cortez or an all-white Air Max
Most prized piece in your wardrobe? Oh man, this is tough. It's probably the old stuff that I treasure most. I'd say it's a toss up between this Playboy sweatshirt I bought when I was 19, or a vintage marching band T-shirt my BFF Nicole gave me years ago.
Favorite spots to shop? My shopping habits are so random. I either buy stuff from designer friends or buy five of the same things in different colorways from Uniqlo or Telco on Broadway.
Favorite designers? NORMA KAMALI,
It's not unusual for Korean streetwear to have a dark and brooding edge, but this season HUMAN POTENTIAL (aka HUPOT) is taking the idea to the extreme. “The inspiration for the collection comes from sacrificial blood," designer YK explained via email. "More specifically, the use of the lamb's blood in the book of Exodus to save those that painted the blood on their door posts.”
The Old Testament inspiration translates into T-shirts, tanks, and shorts that are both Biblical and street-ready, with the blood-splatter motif rendered in sharp black and white. Designers YK and Do’s past HUPOT collections have always had a dark but youthful vibe, with unconventional fabrics, trippy prints, and demonic cartoon logos that bridge New York and Korea’s subcultures. Fittingly, they have been rocked by both K-pop icons 2NE1 and NU'EST as well as US-based OC pals A$AP ROCKY and CASSIE.
So why the focus on blood? "I'm very interested in the human condition," said YK. "I read books on psychology, philosophy, and the Bible. When I read the Bible I see a lot of humanity in it. All the collections tie into the struggle of humanity. Through reading and studying, I believe that all human beings are under a curse from their birth. The book of Exodus shows people being freed from their curse."
Shop all Human Potential HERE
CAMO PRINTED LAYERED T-SHIRT in Grey
Photos courtesy of HUPOT
WAX COATED ZIP JACKET and WAX COATED SLIM FITTED JEANS in Black
Waxed Coated Drop Crotch Shorts in Grey
Hooded Rain Coat in White
Blood Printed Sweater in Black
Blood Printed Tank in White
These days, chefs are treated like celebrities who also have superhuman powers. So who are these Croc-wearing food wizards? Where do they find their BITES ON A BUDGET? And where do they go to splurge? In TOP CHEF, TOP EATS, we ask top NYC chefs where and what they eat.
You won't feel more taken care of than when you walk into Rouge Tomate, an oasis on the Upper East Side as restful and healthful as a spa. The culinary team at Rouge Tomate works with a nutritionist to come up with innovative plates that are as much a pleasure to eat as they are to look at. (If you've never cooed over a dehydrated potato slice layered over a rosemary leaf layered over a second dehydrated potato slice to create the perfect potato chip, you'll probably start now.)
The goal of Belgian owner Emmanuel Verstraeten is to maintain the principles of SPE (Sanitas Per Escam, or health through food), which means the food is nutritious, local, and seasonal. It doesn't mean the food has to be delicious, but it is. In fact, they've maintained their Michelin star since opening in 2008. It also means that executive chef Jeremy Bearman and executive pastry chef James DiStefano face a great number of challenges with a menu that constantly evolves based on the season. Oh, and just for bonus points, they use as little cream, butter, and white sugar as possible.
I sat with chefs Jeremy and James to talk best spots to eat in NY, lamest food trend (they agree on which one!), and their favorite pieces of produce to work with in this year's long, long winter.
Names: Jeremy Bearman (executive chef) and James DiStefano (executive pastry chef)
JB: Suffern, NY
JD: Northvale, NJ
JB: Sleepy Hollow in Westchester
Signature dish at Rouge Tomate:
JB: Mushroom “tartare” and Hawaiian walu ceviche
Signature dish at home:
Favorite produce in season now:
JB: Ruby red grapefruit and cauliflower
JD: Fennel frond
Food trends you're over:
JB: Pork in everything
JD: Bacon. Look, it’s delicious. Does it need to be in every dessert? No.
Best hangover cures:
JD: Two aspirins before bed, two aspirins after waking up, with a 32-ounce Gatorade. Or a Pedialyte if I’m really hurting. Ice cold.
Best food markets:
JB: Union Square Greenmarket and Eataly
JD: Kim’s Produce on Court Street
After a long day, what do you like to eat:
JB: Peanut butter and jelly
JD: Salty food, because I’m around sweet all day
JB: Daniel Boulud
JD: Really old school guys: Alain Rondelli, Pierre Koffmann
After a successful debut at MoMA’s PS1 last fall, the largest retrospective of artist Mike Kelley’s work is now on display at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Los Angeles. The comprehensive show spans Kelley’s 35-year career and touches on every aspect of Kelley’s work, including drawing, painting, video, performance, photography, and sculpture. To celebrate the homecoming of his work, Opening Ceremony has teamed up with the Mike Kelley Foundation to present a limited series of T-shirts and tote bags emblazoned with distinctive imagery from his vast portfolio, sold exclusively at OC and at the LA MOCA shop to benefit the museum.
Born in Detroit, Mike Kelley moved to Los Angeles in the mid-1970s and spent the next three decades skewering social norms and upending expectations of pop art with eye-popping pieces that explore mass media culture, sexuality, religion, and conservative American values with a winking post-punk eye.
With the help of the Mike Kelley Foundation, Opening Ceremony culled through the artist’s extensive archive to select six distinctive images for this limited collection. A black-and-white photograph was pulled from his 1979 piece The Poltergeist, a performance staged in Los Angeles with David Askevold which was Kelley’s first acclaimed performance work, debuting only a year after he completed an MFA program at CalArts. More playful images were selected from Kelley’s 1983 piece Monkey Island, including two symmetrical monkeys hinged at the buttocks, and a pen and ink drawing of The Singing Root, from Monkey Island: Travelogue. A trip Kelley took to the primate displays at the Los Angeles Zoo inspired him to explore the formal similarities between humans and animals.
This Sunday, MOCA celebrated the exhibition’s opening with an all-day event at their Geffen Contemporary location, where the show is displayed. Throughout the day MOCA members were treated to performances, including a rendition of Mike Kelley’s 1989 piece Pansy Metal/Clovered Hoof, choreographed by Anita Pace, and a special performance by Kelley’s close friend and collaborator Kim Gordon, also of the band Sonic Youth, and artist Jutta Koether. One of Kelley’s most famous pieces is Ahh…Youth!, which includes the photograph of the knit stuffed animal that graced the cover of Sonic Youth’s 1992 album Dirty.
Between performances, we asked some of MOCA’s distinguished guests about Mike Kelley’s lasting impact and his work’s homecoming to his adoptive city of Los Angeles. See their answers to the left!
Shop the Opening Ceremony and Mike Kelley Foundation collection HERE | See the Mike Kelley retrospective at MoCA through July 28, 2014
The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA
152 North Central Avenue
Los Angeles, CA
BOYCHILD and Wu Tsang&
After collaborating with BLACKMEANS for Generation Tokyo, a pop-up inside the OCNY men's store that brought together the punk rock and sportswear ends of Tokyo’s sartorial spectrum back in February, beloved Japanese menswear brand SASQUATCHFABRIX. returns to OC with its Spring/Summer 2014 collection. The hoodies, sweatshorts, and cargo pants are simplicity personified––with a tactile twist. The fabrics are an original cotton and nylon blend developed by layering three different types of fiber in the same way corrugated cardboard is produced. The result is structured yet soft to the touch, somewhere between foamy neoprene and cozy cotton.
According to SASQUATCHfabrix.’s Satoshi Niibo, the brand's focus on developing unique materials and processes is "a sort of Japanese mentality." Past SASQUATCHfabrix. collections have drawn from a diverse range of influences including 1950s Japanese silhouettes and rugged takes on Zen motifs, and this season is no different. Inspired by Satoyama woodlands, or intermediate areas of Japanese landscape that separate countryside and more urban areas, SASQUATCHfabrix. SS14 refreshes workwear-inspired pieces in rich brown, tonal olive, and off-white hues with oversized shapes and drawstrings for days.
Shop all SASQUATCHfabrix. HERE
Photo courtesy of SASQUATCHfabrix.
CORRUGATED CARDBOARD ZIP-UP HOODIE in Black
Tapered Cargo Pants in Khaki
Corrugated Cardboard Sweatshorts in Black
Hello Hong Kong! Once again Opening Ceremony is joining its friends at I.T Hysan One with a print-filled pop-up! (Remember that amazing MM6 x OC pop-up in 2011?) Founded in 1988, I.T is one of Hong Kong's most fashion-forward multi-brand stores and we're excited to bring our Spring/Summer 2014 collection to Causeway Bay. Head over through the month of April to check out some of our favorite pieces from this season—including five pop-up exclusives—displayed on matching patterned tables, walls, and even a daisy-printed car that fits right in alongside the street-racing vibe.
Before you head out to shop, check out I.T's Facebook page to see details of their Instagram giveaway—you could pick up some OC gifts, like playing cards or a water bottle to quench your thirst in style.
I.T HYSAN ONE
1 Hysan Ave
Have you ever cringed when you've seen someone logo-ed out hardcore? Used the phrase "human billboard" to describe someone dressed entirely in a brand? Judge no more: they just know what they like. When you pick the right brand, head-to-toe looks can actually be stunning, with the designer's vision and inspiration shining through much more than in a single piece. Plus, being a brand loyalist makes putting together a wardrobe so easy; once you're obsessed, you can go back season after season and pick out pieces and pair 'em up with what you already have. Here, we've put together a few looks that incorporate the main components of Opening Ceremony's Spring/Summer 2014 Men's collection—pojagi prints, magpie patterns, and impeccably structured tailoring—without that walking billboard effect.
Shop all Opening Ceremony men's here
Opening Ceremony Beau suiting classic 2-button sport coat, Pogaji jacquard Asymmetrical bomber, beau suiting slim trousers, adidas Originals x Opening Ceremony Baseball Cleat Boots
Opening Ceremony Tank nylon tech parka, neoprene knit oversized tee, tank nylon paneled swim trunks, Mason slip-on (online soon!)
Opening Ceremony kang oxford tunic collar shirt, magpie oxford tucked pocket shirt, magpie jacquard paneled swim trunks
Dreams of unicorns and utopias seem antithetical to grunge style, but Steve J & Yoni P have found a way to seamlessly integrate them. The brand's newest collection, called "Pop Universe," uses mythical motifs and neon colors on sporty, tough-girl garments to evoke a sense of escapism in your wardrobe. This season, designers Steve Jung and Yoni Pai created a collection that acts as armor, an easy way to push back against the dreary everyday. There's a story being told in the juxtaposition of bright camo and blissed-out florals: the former shows the battle against reality, with the latter embodying the arrival at Shangri-La. "We want to make unexpected looks. We re-worked camouflage with neon colors to express a sporty vibe, and to deliver a strong message of escaping reality," designer Yoni explained. "Plus the contrast creates something new and fresh." The story of unicorns and an Elysium life is as old as time itself, but Steve and Yoni have turned it into a vibrant, unique collection.
Shop all Steve J & Yoni P heRE
UTOPIA MESH LONG BLOUSE
pop camouflage jacket in black
pop camouflage bustier flared dress in black
dreamy flower dress in white
dreamy flower sleeveless mesh top in white
dreamy flower mesh jacket in black
dreamy flower mesh t-shirt in black
dreamy flower mesh skirt in white
pop universe knit top in violet
mesh skirt in black
utopia mesh long blouse in yellow
pop universe knit skirt in green
At this point, it is safe to say that Simon Jacquemus can do no wrong. If you've ever stopped by OCNY around the time his mini skirts and crop tops hit the floor each season, you'll know that they inspire a small herd of women to congregate around the racks and inspect each piece. For Spring/Summer 2014, Jacquemus takes us to the French resort community La Grande Motte with pieces a modern day Jane Birkin would love. The palatte includes pops of sherbet pink swirled with white, electric blue, and kelly green on tennis uniform silhouettes. His trademark boxy crop-tops and pleated skirts are transformed by drastic geometric cut-outs and curved lines that Simon pairs in his lookbook with white knee-high socks and Adidas Superstar sneakers. The collection is complete with a mosquito net-inspired blazer, perfect for fending off those pesky bugs while you sit poolside sipping on your lemon gingerini and scrolling through Jacquemus’ amazing triptych-style Instagram.
Shop all Jacquemus here
LE TEE SHIRT GLACE in white. Lookbook images by Bertrand Le PluardLA ROBE COL U in white
LA JUPE TABLIER in pink/white
LA TUNIQUE BANDE ROSE in white/pink
Jacquemus' INSTAGRAM is triptych-themed, with photos often appearing in groups of three. Here, we've pulled three of our favorite sets!
It seems like everyday you come across a new "heritage" brand, proclaiming the virtues of vintage styles from the good old days where things were meticulously handmade. But let's be real for a second—just because it's old doesn't mean it's good. The two brothers behind New York-based brand Haerfest, Dan and Tim Joo, create modern minimalist styles, made of carefully chosen materials and put together with the utmost attention to detail. Everything down to the brass hardware on the zipper pull was picked to perfectly marry form and function. Their newest collection is completely monochromatic, emphasizing the brothers' purposeful design choices through its simplicity. They recently invited me to check out their showroom and talk about their projects. (Not shown: Me nerding out about a minimalist wardrobe.)
Shop all Haerfest here.
Dana: Hi Dan and Tim! Let's start at the beginning, how did Haerfest manifest?
Dan: It actually started before we created any products to begin with. Tim and I were living together in Williamsburg [Brooklyn] and we would often talk about things that we wanted to do outside of work. Tim was always creating different things, but it wasn’t until he made these beautiful leather bags that we were like, “This is something.”
Tim: We wanted to establish our aesthetic with bags. I thought that bags would be a good introduction to the product that we wanted to make. I had made some for myself, not to sell, but had gotten some good feedback from some of our buyer friends.
Dan: We often talked about it, but once we had the products we didn't know where to go. And we decided, okay, if we do this, we have to do it full time. So there was a point where Tim and I left the comfort of our jobs and we just went full steam ahead.
What were you doing prior?
Tim: I was working for the design team at Opening Ceremony, managing production.
So you're OC family! When you were developing the Haerfest aesthetic, what did you find most difficult?
Tim: This might sound a bit cliché, but I don’t think simplicity necessarily means simple. We try to find a balance between creating forms that are really familiar and focusing on the design details that allow us to make things a little unexpected. We have these three design pillars that we use to check off if something is Haerfest: Essence, Aesthetic, and Utility. A lot of our inspiration comes from minimalism and Donald Judd and Frank Stella, concentrating on design principles like form, color, and texture.
Dan: We try to identify ourselves with the details. For example, even though the bag is meant to be a backpack or a briefcase, we try to add something that’s a little different.
Tim: Like our ring and stud system, which we use to add function, like locking, but also freedom of movement. On our tote, you can use the short handles, or flip them to long handles and the system prevents the from moving. These small details serve as a function but also can be a branding detail, like Margiela's four stitches.
What was the inspiration behind the current collection, Collection F?
Dan: An artist named Ad Reinhardt. When he created his pieces most people thought it was just a monochrome, but it wasn’t really meant for the people that are just passing by. But as people began to take some time and really look into the painting they noticed things popping out.
Tim: I was recommended to check him out, and there were a couple of books on him in the Strand bookstore. What really interested me were the subtleties of using just one color.
At first glance, Kaal E Suktae's Spring/Summer 2014 collection––filled with garter belts, corsets, sheer paneling, and high-cut skirts––would seem as far away from the Bible as fashion gets. But in fact, the Korean designer's "Rejected" collection references a psalm: "The stone the builder rejected has become the corner stone.” The more you think about it, the more the collection echoes the verse's architectural message. It's filled with arch-like curves, geometric details, and Y-silhouettes, for one. Designer Lee Suk Tae also approaches his collections with the eye of a builder: each season adds to the last with cross-over pieces that serve as essential layering items. This time around, mesh overlay, faux leather, and silk create a look that is both minimal and masterfully crafted.
Shop all Kaal E Suktae HERE
Images courtesy Kaal E Suktae
Corset Leather Jacket in black
Stripe Detailed Apron Dress in navy/white
Corset Bodysuit in black
Stripe Detailed Cropped Leather Jacket in black/white
Sheer Cover Sleeveless Top in white
Oversized Blazer in white
Asymmetrical Cut Skort in white
Leather Front Trousers in black
Abstract Zipped Jacket in navy/white